Im getting over boost now. Probably a clamp rubbing on actuator. I deviated from hose clamps to t bolt clamps
No plans to wrap but I have consider moving the coolant tank but not because of this.
I like the work Dimtri is doing with his intake conversion and moving the tank is a prerequisite.
Currently on the docket however is to finish up the HPFP testing then an LSD so I can get the M3 DCT conversion going.
BQ has the Info in his inlet project thread.
The coolant tank fits in the stock location just fine but it does touch the pipe so may cause some rubbing wear. If it looks concerning, I would look at raising the tank a bit before going straight to relocation project.
The coolant tank fits in the stock location just fine but it does touch the pipe so may cause some rubbing wear. If it looks concerning, I would look at raising the tank a bit before going straight to relocation project.
Just get the N55 coolant tank Part# 17137640515 . It should be able to make room for the PSP outlet so you dont have to relocate. I am reverting my relocation coolant setup back to the way it was and installing the N55 coolant tank.
Yep ... good price. Cap is same part number so no new one needed. Just ordered from FCP. As usual, thanks to Dimitri for figuring this out on the Z4.
Filippo
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I think you can use the old cap. I dont recall if I tested if the cap fits or not.
It was suggested not to wrap the pipe since the aluminum acts as a heat sink for the air inside the pipe...that internal air is waaaay hotter than the engine bay air. Wrapping the silicon coupler protects the silicon from damage due to close proximity to the manifold.
I installed these outlets in August with my MMP S3's. I wrapped both the PSP outlets and aluminum relocation inlets in the DEI gold tape. IAT temps seem to be pretty good honestly. I am also still running a smaller evolution racewerks intercooler and IAT's stay right around 8-10 degrees above ambient. I'm not running any crazy boost yet because I'm currently piecing together my fuel set up but so far so good on 20psi.
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I live in eastern TN. Climate is pretty hot and humid in the summer months. Fall and winter are colder but mild compared to the north east where I'm from.
I live in Houston, TX. In winter the IAT is 10-20ºf above ambient...even in traffic. In summer the IAT can go up to 30-40º above ambient in traffic and 20-30º in highway speeds on very hot days.
Is this similar to your situations or are you saying that you are only 10º all the time?
Matreyia, My situation is a little different than yours. I dont typically daily drive the car so I'm not sitting in tons of traffic. I was also really worried about the ER FMIC not being big enough for the MMP's and had planned to upgrade to a 7.5 stepped intercooler when budget allowed. I came across a real good article about intercooler ducting and how important it is around the time of installing the MMP's so I decided to try something out and do some testing. So far so good. I made a quick ducting plate that installed between my FMIC and AC condenser that is attached to the upper bumper opening to force all air through my intercooler and not hit it like a wall than travel upwards. I also got some industrial black Styrofoam blocks from my work and cut them to fit on the side of the intercooler sealing the FMIC and the bumper. The results have been impressive so far for me and I'm surprised how well the little intercooler is doing with the larger turbos. Pictures of quick ducting plate and YT video example attached. I haven't raised boost above 20 PSI yet because of fuel limitations but highway pulls on my set up in the upper gears show around 10-14 degrees above ambient.
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No effect on water or oil temps. I also trimmed the rear engine cowl which seems to help a lot with under hood temperatures also.
I trimmed mine too and the only drawback is I have to use the wipers even after it rains due to humidity forming on the windshield from the engine heat.
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