DIY : PTFE line- tank to HPFP + inline fuel filter upgrade
- Thread starter Blaster3500
- Start date
Actually drilling all the rail outlets does offer a very small benefit you can see it in the stft logs.
Any benefit is better than none, it could be the difference between limp mode or not when your on the edge.
Also stabilises the rail pressure a little.
Well, just read through this entire thread nearly 11 months since its been dormant...
Can anybody tell me if it would be foolish to use this hose for a complete fuel line upgrade from LPFP all the way to HPFP (yes, replacing the hardline as well)? Everybody in this thread spoke about using PTFE, which I see has higher pressure and temperature tolerances. However the linked hose has a stated max operating temp of 300*F and a max pressure rating of 300 PSI.
IMO, if your fuel in the LP line is nearing 250*F, there is probably a more serious problem, and the pressure in that line should never come close to even 150PSI, right?
Can anybody tell me if it would be foolish to use this hose for a complete fuel line upgrade from LPFP all the way to HPFP (yes, replacing the hardline as well)? Everybody in this thread spoke about using PTFE, which I see has higher pressure and temperature tolerances. However the linked hose has a stated max operating temp of 300*F and a max pressure rating of 300 PSI.
IMO, if your fuel in the LP line is nearing 250*F, there is probably a more serious problem, and the pressure in that line should never come close to even 150PSI, right?
Thank you guys for your confirmation and responses. I actually did not initially notice that the linked hose is NHRA approved! Going to order all I need soon
So I think 3/8" for feed line is too small for big power, over 700 wheel on E85. For that reason I'm doing as much 1/2" as I can. I'm not a fan of doing PTFE because it's a bit harder to get the fittings correct and sealed (I've F'd up every one I've tried).
Se here is my parts list for standard (Rubber) AN 1/2" line. (as cheap as I can find)
So going from the tank forward.
1 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/131486439785
2 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/123490358551 (8AN straights)
1 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/254063036215 (for the LPFP Sensor)
1 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/262521223013
1 x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085ZZWFXX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details (for HPFP)
1 x https://www.lethalperformance.com/speedflow-m14x1-5-fem-swivel-to-6-male-sf-171-06-14-blk.html (alternative part numbers, Gates 7253-64755; Aeroquip 15.163-6-6)
Caveats,
They do not make the HPFP fitting in 14mm to 8AN. 6AN is all there is. So an adapter will be needed.
I can not find a 6AN female to 8AN male for the LPFP Sensor. If that existed you could eliminate the adapter to the HPFP fitting. The goal is the least amount of potential leak points.
There is no quick disconnect other than at the tank. I'm fine with that. You may not be.
If you want PTFE, that's up to you to source parts.
I'm actually on dual HPFP's.
The only additions besides the number of fittings is this Y:
I am tempted to use a couple of Tony's checkvalves inline --> https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-mini-billet-check-valves/
Se here is my parts list for standard (Rubber) AN 1/2" line. (as cheap as I can find)
So going from the tank forward.
1 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/131486439785
2 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/123490358551 (8AN straights)
alternatively 45*'s https://www.ebay.com/itm/184953833373?var=692739226891
20 x Line https://www.ebay.com/itm/113470269928?var=4136834295821 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/254063036215 (for the LPFP Sensor)
1 x https://www.ebay.com/itm/262521223013
1 x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085ZZWFXX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details (for HPFP)
1 x https://www.lethalperformance.com/speedflow-m14x1-5-fem-swivel-to-6-male-sf-171-06-14-blk.html (alternative part numbers, Gates 7253-64755; Aeroquip 15.163-6-6)
Caveats,
They do not make the HPFP fitting in 14mm to 8AN. 6AN is all there is. So an adapter will be needed.
I can not find a 6AN female to 8AN male for the LPFP Sensor. If that existed you could eliminate the adapter to the HPFP fitting. The goal is the least amount of potential leak points.
There is no quick disconnect other than at the tank. I'm fine with that. You may not be.
If you want PTFE, that's up to you to source parts.
I'm actually on dual HPFP's.
The only additions besides the number of fittings is this Y:
Z122N -8AN "Y" Block Fuel Y Fitting Junction Coupler 8/8/8 Parallel Exits BLACK | eBay
This is for (1) one fitting. One-piece, CNC-machined T6061 billet aluminum design ensures the most direct path for unrestricted and redirected flow. Lightweight and compact for tight confines, these pro flowing Y-fittings attach directly to hose ends without adapters.
www.ebay.com
I am tempted to use a couple of Tony's checkvalves inline --> https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-mini-billet-check-valves/
That rubber hose is going to reek of fuel. Your garage will smell like a fuel leak.
I see it as no different than the redimade 'upgraded' lines.
But I may eat my words. Time will tell.
I've had no issues using it for oil.
LOL
Me to. What fuckin' junk.
But internally it wasn't degraded. And I never smelt fuel.
On mine where the hose fit over the push on fittings was splitting. Looked like the fitting was too large for the hose.
And With the ice racing I do I'd tore a few chunks off the outside. The inner braid was exposed.
Having went through this myself I can say there is a huge difference in purchasing the cheapest PTFE lines and fittings vs name brand. I tried using some from anfittingsdirect.com and they were complete garbage. They were impossible to assemble without the threads galling and stripping. I've had great experiences with fragola and earls though.
Also fuel vapors will definitely seep through rubber AN lines. And if you ever plan on using ethanol they will dry out and crack. I seen all this multiple times. I'm all for saving money but fuel lines would be one thing I wouldn't skimp on. Buy once, cry once as they say.
Ok, necrothread, I know. And perhaps it's already been discussed at some point in the 13 pages, but if the outlet at the fuel pump cover is 5/16 (-5AN equivalent), why run -6 lines? Fuel flow is bottlenecked at 5/16 regardless, running -6AN lines won't change anything. Am I missing something here?
Because the factory lines are a restriction and get smaller than 5/16, -6an in a good cheap easy solution.
Some have gone as big as -8an but only if upgrade the hat and outlet with a pi setup which I'm not convinced is needed.
I had a bad dead injector and tried removing these and they would not come out with a puller, dont try and remove them as you will cause damage.
If one wants to clean them blow them out with a compressor and air gun.
