My first write up and attempt at a DIY
I don't recall seeing a write up on aluminum outlets and certainly not PSP aluminum ones - overkill for most applications.
** There will be personal YouTube content in this write up, some fun, some instructional, some show the struggle.
Tools/equipment needed:
- Jack and jack stands - not needed but nice to have if you need to lift the vehicle. For people with automatics you will need to raise to remove the transmission cooler from the fan shroud.
- 8mm socket and ratchet - socket wrench, an electric ratchet or drill helps move things along *used for removing cabin filter, cabin filter housing, under body tray
- 10mm socket and ratchet - socket wrench, an electric ratchet or drill helps move things along *used to remove the vacuum canisters and coolant reservoir
- Assortment of T-Torx bits, t-handles ect - I used T20 and T25 *used for removing transmission cooler, one fan bolt, and airduct - fresh air duct for intake
- E8 Torx for exhaust heat shield
- 5mm allen for engine cover and clamps on outlets *used a "ball" allen for a little wiggle room
- Assortment of ratchets, extensions ranging from 1/4" and 3/8" a 3/8 - 1/4 adapter will help as well
Let's start off with this was my first aluminum outlet install, I have done one silicone outlet and silicone inlet install on a friends 335i and I have done countless N54 N63 turbos all of which was at least 6 years ago, with a lift, in a shop.
This is the process that worked for me:
*Start by removing the 6x8mm for the cabin filter and the 2x8mm for the cabin filter mount, cover?
*Remove the the T20 screws securing the fresh air ducts for the intake
*Remove the engine beauty cover with 4x5mm allen
*Not 100% necessary but gives you a little bit of room, remove the fan by removing the, electrical connector from fan, unclip the coolant line from fan and the T25 screw from the top passenger side of fan. Carefully depress as needed fan clips and gently remove fan.
**If removing from an auto, remove under tray by unscrewing the 8mm bolts. This exposes the one T25 screw securing the transmission cooler to the fan shroud. The fan can now be carefully removed.
*Remove the coolant reservoir by removing the 2x10mm bolts and lift up slowly, there is still the connector for level sensor that needs to be removed.
*Remove the vacuum canisters, not 100% needed but marking which vacuum line goes to which canister can be a help for some, this can be done with paint, tape, or anything accessible at the time. 2x10mm bolts, one obvious on the inner fender, one you'll need to look for on the bottom, having a wobble extension, universal extension helps a lot.** use caution and take your time removing these vacuum lines as these plastics can become brittle and the vacuum nipples can snap without warning.
*Remove the Heat shield with vacuum solenoids, you may need to remove the solenoids 1st, I did. To remove solenoids there will be 10mm nuts you will need to remove. You should be able to get your hand on the E8 bolts securing the heat shield on, I want to say there are 4-6, mine only had 3 left SMH.
Now you can see and admire-or hate the amount of engineering that went into making these fit and punch out gobs of low end grunt so many love from these engines.
*This is where things get tight and patience comes into play. Loosening the 2x5mm allen bolts for the clamps securing the outlets to the turbos.
I was able to get to both of mine from the top, some may have to get the back one from the bottom, depends if they vehicles has been worked on or how they were last fitted.
**What I've done in the past, used a 1/4" ratchet with a 5mm wobble or ball allen soctet, at times extensions will be needed, universal joints ect.
***There was one time I had to use a small T30 and a shallow 1/4" ratchet with extension to get these off, I wish every vehicle is the same but again it all depends on who and if the vehicle has been touched in the past.
*Once you have been blessed by the 30FF GODS, or cursed by them, you have the outlet "loose" you now have to remove the pipe from the intercooler. If aftermarket-assuming you would have that done or ready, if not will need to be done now. If aftermarket loose the clamp between the two.
**If factor you will need to carefully grind off the crimped clamp securing the two together.
*YES, 1/2 way there now, you finally have the outlet out.
*Install appears as if it should be as simple as reverse the above noted instructions, well that's mostly true except now you have a fixed, solid piece of metal that is larger than factory, considerably larger fro this all ready tight area.
**This is where the real patience comes in. You must come up with crafty ways to hold the flush metal outlet to the flush metal turbo and manage to get the clamp on and bolt started. I am not going to lie the front one took me more than one hour to get a few threads started, the back one how ever 3-5 minutes.
Part one video:
tear down begins at 7 minutes in
Part two:
continues 1 minute in
I don't recall seeing a write up on aluminum outlets and certainly not PSP aluminum ones - overkill for most applications.
** There will be personal YouTube content in this write up, some fun, some instructional, some show the struggle.
Tools/equipment needed:
- Jack and jack stands - not needed but nice to have if you need to lift the vehicle. For people with automatics you will need to raise to remove the transmission cooler from the fan shroud.
- 8mm socket and ratchet - socket wrench, an electric ratchet or drill helps move things along *used for removing cabin filter, cabin filter housing, under body tray
- 10mm socket and ratchet - socket wrench, an electric ratchet or drill helps move things along *used to remove the vacuum canisters and coolant reservoir
- Assortment of T-Torx bits, t-handles ect - I used T20 and T25 *used for removing transmission cooler, one fan bolt, and airduct - fresh air duct for intake
- E8 Torx for exhaust heat shield
- 5mm allen for engine cover and clamps on outlets *used a "ball" allen for a little wiggle room
- Assortment of ratchets, extensions ranging from 1/4" and 3/8" a 3/8 - 1/4 adapter will help as well
Let's start off with this was my first aluminum outlet install, I have done one silicone outlet and silicone inlet install on a friends 335i and I have done countless N54 N63 turbos all of which was at least 6 years ago, with a lift, in a shop.
This is the process that worked for me:
*Start by removing the 6x8mm for the cabin filter and the 2x8mm for the cabin filter mount, cover?
*Remove the the T20 screws securing the fresh air ducts for the intake
*Remove the engine beauty cover with 4x5mm allen
*Not 100% necessary but gives you a little bit of room, remove the fan by removing the, electrical connector from fan, unclip the coolant line from fan and the T25 screw from the top passenger side of fan. Carefully depress as needed fan clips and gently remove fan.
**If removing from an auto, remove under tray by unscrewing the 8mm bolts. This exposes the one T25 screw securing the transmission cooler to the fan shroud. The fan can now be carefully removed.
*Remove the coolant reservoir by removing the 2x10mm bolts and lift up slowly, there is still the connector for level sensor that needs to be removed.
*Remove the vacuum canisters, not 100% needed but marking which vacuum line goes to which canister can be a help for some, this can be done with paint, tape, or anything accessible at the time. 2x10mm bolts, one obvious on the inner fender, one you'll need to look for on the bottom, having a wobble extension, universal extension helps a lot.** use caution and take your time removing these vacuum lines as these plastics can become brittle and the vacuum nipples can snap without warning.
*Remove the Heat shield with vacuum solenoids, you may need to remove the solenoids 1st, I did. To remove solenoids there will be 10mm nuts you will need to remove. You should be able to get your hand on the E8 bolts securing the heat shield on, I want to say there are 4-6, mine only had 3 left SMH.
Now you can see and admire-or hate the amount of engineering that went into making these fit and punch out gobs of low end grunt so many love from these engines.
*This is where things get tight and patience comes into play. Loosening the 2x5mm allen bolts for the clamps securing the outlets to the turbos.
I was able to get to both of mine from the top, some may have to get the back one from the bottom, depends if they vehicles has been worked on or how they were last fitted.
**What I've done in the past, used a 1/4" ratchet with a 5mm wobble or ball allen soctet, at times extensions will be needed, universal joints ect.
***There was one time I had to use a small T30 and a shallow 1/4" ratchet with extension to get these off, I wish every vehicle is the same but again it all depends on who and if the vehicle has been touched in the past.
*Once you have been blessed by the 30FF GODS, or cursed by them, you have the outlet "loose" you now have to remove the pipe from the intercooler. If aftermarket-assuming you would have that done or ready, if not will need to be done now. If aftermarket loose the clamp between the two.
**If factor you will need to carefully grind off the crimped clamp securing the two together.
*YES, 1/2 way there now, you finally have the outlet out.
*Install appears as if it should be as simple as reverse the above noted instructions, well that's mostly true except now you have a fixed, solid piece of metal that is larger than factory, considerably larger fro this all ready tight area.
**This is where the real patience comes in. You must come up with crafty ways to hold the flush metal outlet to the flush metal turbo and manage to get the clamp on and bolt started. I am not going to lie the front one took me more than one hour to get a few threads started, the back one how ever 3-5 minutes.
Part one video:
tear down begins at 7 minutes in
Part two:
continues 1 minute in
