Propulsive Dynamics Officially Launches Mass Production
- Thread starter AUbeast86
- Start date
I've had mine for about 5k miles now, as well as over 200+ pulls above 25-30psi. So far the tranny has hold up great with no signs of slippage. I also flashed it with XHP S3. I've been to the track once only and didn't launch hard since I was only looking for trap speed that day. Still managed a 11.3@130mph. Hope this info helps some of you. So far I love this tranny 
I've had mine for about 5k miles now, as well as over 200+ pulls above 25-30psi. So far the tranny has hold up great with no signs of slippage. I also flashed it with XHP S3. I've been to the track once only and didn't launch hard since I was only looking for trap speed that day. Still managed a 11.3@130mph. Hope this info helps some of you. So far I love this tranny
Thanks for the info, very helpful. Do you know anybody that has brought this thing on a circuit and not strip?
I can confirm via personal experience that the PD Upgraded Unit is superior in every way to the stock unit. I plan to do a full review after finishing up my tune. Including accessory installation pics - cooler and temperature sending unit installation etc.
Is it worth the money? YES. It is actually worth much more than what it costs. If you don't believe me, go price out a normal unit and watch your eyeballs pop out of your head.
I installed it myself-- luckily because I already had plenty of transmission work experience on the e93. Using this unit with xHP is like having a razor blade in the car to use as shifting schedule. VERY accurate and solid shifts.
That is great feedback. You planning on posting up here or do you have your own build page? Looking forward to that.
1++ for installation pics and tips. Now that mine is here, I am going to start purchasing the necessary parts and accessories to get it installed. Planning on a Setrab series 1, 19 row cooler with fan to fit into my driver side air duct. An IR 165* tstat and associated lines. I already have the fittings for the trans cooler... And i'll probably use rubber lines since its not going to be visible. Any other considerations?
I only have accessory install pics and not all the way through, just finished parts. I will try to list tips during install though. Like how to handle removal and reinstall angles to avoid getting kinks in the tranny bolts...etc.
VT
I assume you know to replace all bolts and all o rings for all hoses. If not, then do yourself a favor and order all these parts asap. If you don't, then you risk damaging the unit.
Also... ignore any and all armchair mechanic advice if they say you don't need to reset adaptations and don't need to do an adaptations drive procedure. You absolutely must do this procedure... or else you will guarantee damage to your unit. And depending on your year you should find the correct procedure for the version...there are many versions so make sure the version you are going to do is the correct version. Mine was Software version T or so for my 2009 335i. You will need uninterruped shoulder lanes for at least 55 miles to do the drive procedure AND a helper to read and mark each segment off as you complete them.
Will update soon.
it may be hard to find that much un interrupted road here on this tiny island.. and as far as bolts and O-rings, are you referring to the bolts that mount the trans to the engine? What o rings should I search for?
the only oring I was aware of, was the one between the filter and the vb
Yes, bolts that are discarded from old transmission to engine connections need to be replaced completely. Also...do not overtighten bolts. They will deform to useless state if you over tighten them. Use specified torque values...however, it will be close to impossible to torque a few of the bolt because of location...so just use common sense. The bolts are quite soft and so is the tranny and engine metal.
Two o rings to the inlet and outlet ATF cooler lines that connect to the exterior left side of transmission. Do not reuse the old o rings. Also, do not take off the torque converter...just leave it alone. You risk deforming the input shaft seal where the converter connects to...and then leaking atf under pressure during operation.
Finally, be very certain that the quick connects are absolutely secured and not half way because they WILL burst loose under pressure and you will empty your ATF on the road.
If you don't have enough road...then you must rent a dyno for an hour or little more. That is your only alternative. Unless you drive at 3 am in the morning on the roads. Highest speed driving during procedure is 65 mph. so make sure you have at least that much speed limit near the ending sequence.
Good idea for the dyno, that I can do. What size line did you run to the cooler and which fittings did you get? ss or nylon? if im picking your brain too much, let me know. i am just trying to make sure i have everything before i start the project since i am in hawaii and local parts are expensive and shipping can take a few days.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
8 AN Steel. Avoid the Rubber. too risky to endanger what you already spent.
Minimize the weakest links...which means hoses and connections must be top notch...otherwise, you will waste lots of time trying to fix the weak parts...imagine trying to fix connection leaks while there is nothing wrong with your transmission. Now...you see what I am getting at.
Just added a 180º Setrab inline temperature switch today...took lots of photos. Will post soon.
The switch goes inline between the ATF hose and the cooler hose. It activates at 180 and shuts off at 160º F. You will need also relay to hook up to the switch, otherwise, it will run even after you turn off the car. Because it is a temperature switch by itself, it knows only to shut off at 160º...so if your car is off and the fluid is not being pumped... it will take forever to cool down to the preset temperature. Thus you add a relay and wire it up with your headlight automatic "on" position wire. Again, will send big ass post with a shitload of pics soon.
You the man!! Thanks brother. When it comes time to buy parts, I'll probably be picking your brain even more!
Is that headlight wire affected by the position of the light dial? I think there is a position (straight up?) where the headlights remain off.
Yep. Put the light in auto mode and forget about it for the life of the car.
You remember the black and green wire I posted a while ago? That's the one.
Right, I guess my point is, what happens when you get your car serviced and the switch is moved to the off position and you leave it there. Perhaps a better power source may be safer for idiots like me?
I don't understand your concern. It is no different than if you switched the light off yourself. Just double check after service and put it back to auto mode.
As a matter of fact, you WANT the option to switch the fan off manually in some rare cases.
The black and green wire will allow you to complete the circuit when in auto mpde pr in angel eyes mode or in lights on mode.
I too am curious as to how this would hold up on a road course.
Ok...an update on the auto headlight mode...
If it is on the "auto headlight" mode it wil activate at the set temperature ONLY if the evening is nigh and the healights turn on automatically. Otherwise during daytime driving, you must purposely turn the headlights to the "on" position or the angel eyes position.
