PCV talk
- Thread starter lamia2super
- Start date
It would be nice to have it as one kit to purchase that included everything. That being said, I pieced it all together and it was fairly painless.
I'm surprised RB did not get a deal buying the MMCC in bulk so he could make some margin of it. Throw on a powder coated bracket or P clip, tap and tap handle, and there you go...
Okay, so I am returning some things to improved racing that I don't need and they will only give me store credit. So after I grab a couple fittings for my trans cooler fan, I think I'm going to apply the rest of the balance toward this pump:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-p...enge-circulation-gear-pump-17-530m-p-610.html
@Erichale77 do you know how much negative pressure this thing has been able to pull?
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-p...enge-circulation-gear-pump-17-530m-p-610.html
@Erichale77 do you know how much negative pressure this thing has been able to pull?
I don't think it will ever pull negative pressure, because if it did wouldn't it run your CHRA dry (pulling oil out faster than it's being fed)? The pumps purpose is to ensure the drain line never backs up, and to pump the oil back into the oil pan even if there is some positive pressure in the crank case that a gravity drain can't overcome.
Remember the turbo still has to gravity feed to the pump, there really isn't shit for space under the 335 that allows an easy location for this. Depending on your turbo setup, you'll have to get creative with this and not cook the pump from the exhaust.
I'm not one to comment on how or why any of this works, but my understanding is that our crank case vent should not be under positive pressure during on boost scenarios. It is normally plumbed into the rear inlet tube which is receiving suction from the spooling turbos while in boost.
For us single turbo people, those inlet tubes are deleted and now there is no longer any negative pressure being applied to the crank case vent flapper. Currently I leave that vent VTA, some people plumb it to the new intake cone, but I am exploring a vacuum pump for this job.
For us single turbo people, those inlet tubes are deleted and now there is no longer any negative pressure being applied to the crank case vent flapper. Currently I leave that vent VTA, some people plumb it to the new intake cone, but I am exploring a vacuum pump for this job.
The pump you linked would not be used as a crank case vacuum pump. It is a scavenge pump to aid low / rear mounted turbos in draining correctly back to the oil pan.
I can clearly say, people are going overboard on this PCV stuff. Get a good can (LARGE single, or dual) set up, that pulls from both sides PCV, and CCV. Plumb it so it has crankcase vacuum at idle, and proper venting under boost, done. Trying to fit that pump, for what? You will do so much fab work, and spend so much money, and be no better off.
Yes, that much I did see. I contacted Improved racing and they said they have not seen it used this way but it should work if there is a little bit of oil for lubrication. I have a big credit with improved racing and nothing else to spend the money on, so I am considering this. They couldn't tell me if it could or would draw any notable vacuum so I guess that is where I'm hung up, besides the obvious install work.
And how do you propose I do this without a rear inlet tube? I'm not really a fan of drilling a hole in my intake cone. I could tap a bung on my intake pipe, since my bottom mount actually has one, however.
What do you mean by this besides not having a restriction? My CCV is VTA right now, not even a catch can. It spits oil onto my undertray through a 3/4 hose that runs down to the bottom. I've already decided to go with dual mishimoto cans, I am trying to prevent a restriction because of it.
I deleted the PCV
get a cheap occ (big one)
leave the occ intake port open (with a small filter so that it vents outside)
and block the pcv line going to the intake
I did this and the car runs like a champ
every two or three weeks i take out the occ clean and put it back in
this way you keep your IAT a bit lower
and you block oil from getting to the intake which you will be collecting and disposing
cheap, environmental friendly, easy to diy
get a cheap occ (big one)
leave the occ intake port open (with a small filter so that it vents outside)
and block the pcv line going to the intake
I did this and the car runs like a champ
every two or three weeks i take out the occ clean and put it back in
this way you keep your IAT a bit lower
and you block oil from getting to the intake which you will be collecting and disposing
cheap, environmental friendly, easy to diy
Not following you here. The rear inlet tube has nothing to do with vacuum at idle. That comes from the manifold. You forget on my current set up, I run no stock location inlets. I have my inlets as close to the turbos as possible. I run nothing back into the inlets, nor did I say anything about running anything into the inlets. Vacuum to the can at idle to avoid the typical idle smoke N54's can see, then both CCV, and PCV going to the can with proper venting under boost. I have a filter on my can itself with a checkvalve, and I have the breather on my VC with a check ball. Either way, that pump is a waste of time, and money IMO
@Tony@VargasTurboTech what checkballs did you use? this kinda sounds like the set up I wanna do. sounds very similar to our turbo fiat cars we have here. still questioning where the checkballs would go on our cars. anyway you could maybe draw up a quick diagram or such to help us out?
Boomba 1/2" check valve inline, and on the valve cover I use a UPR Ecoboost breather. I drill a hole in the VC, install it with a grommet
Okay, yes I see where you said at idle now. So you run the CCV and PCV to the same can? Interesting, as I bought two cans. I'm still wrapping my head around the pcv stuff, I have the RB external 'kit' which for me is just a pcv valve with a line that goes to a manifold barb with an OCC in the middle.
+1 on this these are proven little check valves that hold a lot of boost. I'm sure there are other but i know these guys are kinda known for making a strong reliable part.
Ok so I know that it looks like a 4yo sketched this but it was in my phone with no stylis
So do I really have this nailed or someone fine my flaw before I start fitting parts
Dual catch can set up
Blue is low
Red is high
Low side is ade pcv delete to a boomba valve to CC in
Then CC directly to Manifold (tapped port on aluminum Manifold)
High side is stock flapper valve to CC
Then CC to hot side inlets area, I will then Y it off to both filters in some manner
Head ports not plugged yet I'll do it next time I pull the valve cover.
Lines will be -8 and -12 if I can tap the can to accept and still seal the ORB o ring.. if not -10 on high side.
So do I really have this nailed or someone fine my flaw before I start fitting parts
Dual catch can set up
Blue is low
Red is high
Low side is ade pcv delete to a boomba valve to CC in
Then CC directly to Manifold (tapped port on aluminum Manifold)
High side is stock flapper valve to CC
Then CC to hot side inlets area, I will then Y it off to both filters in some manner
Head ports not plugged yet I'll do it next time I pull the valve cover.
Lines will be -8 and -12 if I can tap the can to accept and still seal the ORB o ring.. if not -10 on high side.
Move low side check valve to Manifold hose.. that's my only edit I think.. so it can't pressurize the can
Where vac source is routed to a catch can and then to the intake cone/pipe as shown on the right:
