JPuehl
Corporal
Hey Mark. I would say "yes" and have even read comments from people that used to vent to atmosphere where they say the engine started running smooth again once connected to the intake.
N55 Turbo Side Intake Progress
- Thread starter Alturiak
- Start date
Thanks Jim..I haven't noticed any changes to my engines smoothness to date venting to atmosphere fortunately but it makes sense to have connected as designed. Add that to the to-do list..cheers
Any chance you have found a pod filter to directly mount to pipe. I can't seem to find one on line.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
I think you would probably be able to get a filter with a 3.25” (82.55mm) ID flange to work? It’s only about a millimetre difference. Probably zero difference with the O-rings installed on the inlet.
I had a quick look online and here are a few AEM ones.
I couldn’t seem to find the ability to search AFE on their own website like you could before, but I’ve found this one, I’m sure there are others.
Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter
With three layers of progressively finer mesh synthetic "oil-free" media between 100% polyurethane frame top and base, this high flow, "oil-free" conical performance filter provides maximum convenience and easy maintenance with excellent airflow. Washable and reusable for multiple cleanings, the...
afepower.com
You might need to get some pipe or a silicone elbow or something to tilt the inlet entry away from the block and provide space for the filter. Or cut off the bracket and rotate the inlet and figure out a way to hold it to the block?
I intend to design something 3D-printable with a standard MAF profile and PCV heater port, but I’ve already got so much to do!
Mate...thanks for the detailed response, so appreciated. I ordered a mm inlet tonight. Also will be ordering an n54 coolant reservoir..good tips with the spacing, thank you.. for info I ran no inlet today and lost 1.5psi of boost! I have pure 750 with standard compressor housing with ps2 style metal inlet. I was hoping to see more available wgdc but didn't. Intestering and it seems it definitely needs an inlet pipe, maybe due to airflow dynamics...I think you would probably be able to get a filter with a 3.25” (82.55mm) ID flange to work? It’s only about a millimetre difference. Probably zero difference with the O-rings installed on the inlet.
I had a quick look online and here are a few AEM ones.
I couldn’t seem to find the ability to search AFE on their own website like you could before, but I’ve found this one, I’m sure there are others.
Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter
With three layers of progressively finer mesh synthetic "oil-free" media between 100% polyurethane frame top and base, this high flow, "oil-free" conical performance filter provides maximum convenience and easy maintenance with excellent airflow. Washable and reusable for multiple cleanings, the...
You might need to get some pipe or a silicone elbow or something to tilt the inlet entry away from the block and provide space for the filter. Or cut off the bracket and rotate the inlet and figure out a way to hold it to the block?
I intend to design something 3D-printable with a standard MAF profile and PCV heater port, but I’ve already got so much to do!
Very interesting, can you share a few more details about the "before" set up with 1.5psi more boost? Were both set-ups MAFless? I wonder if hotter (less dense) intake air could be a factor?
Sure.. small 5 " pod filter connected to metal pure inlet pipe mafless.
There was a temperature difference 29c vs 27c. ( not sure of da) I was hoping that boost would increase or at least wgdc would decrease. Didn't happen that way. The temp difference was minor but like most testing it's hard to mimic exact conditions. Even a small positive change would have been encouraging.. I will move on to removing exhaust up to downpipe to see how that goes . (Stock midpipes connected to 3.5" just before axel with magnaflow straight through muffler) the standard midpipes flow at a minimum 20% less than 3.5"..or dual 2.5".
Was the 29c vs. 27c your IAT difference? Probably no easy way to verify, but I was thinking of under-hood temps - specifically if it was sucking hotter air adjacent to the engine block vs what ever air the inlet could scavenge up closer to the hood?
Thinking about it more, probably not the temp - by the time you get up to boost target in sure all that air and a lot more has already been sucked up. Hard to imagine any air down there at full load would be there long enough to absorb much extra heat?
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Hey so I what I noticed after installing the Ross racing kit, were 2 things, and it could be that im just really sensitive to my car, I noticed that the idle wasn’t as smooth, and that the car didn’t pull as hard at top end, after putting in the new inlet and reconnecting the crankcase hose I noticed that the car pulled much harder top end, and it would make sense because when your car is under boost or any car for that matter, vacuum on the crankcase frees up horsepower. From reading online, factory vacuum systems are usually good for 10-20 horsepower depending how there’re designed which I definitely felt after reinstalling the hose. Now my issue with the idle though is that now when my car is under idle since I no longer have the pcv diaphragm, there is no vacuum during idle because the Ross racing cap blocks off the head ports inlet holewhich normally gives the vacuum, so now during idle the crankcase hole right next to it is just venting to atmosphere but because of the no vacuum, its giving me a choppy idle. Now one cool thing that I want to share with everyone, in my effort to clear the intake tract in front of the turbo as much as possible, I’m gonna be rerouting that hose in the turbo inlet to the exhaust, with a pcv to exhaust Venturi kit. Many makers sell them, I’ll be using the one from Seems Legit Garage. By doing that, that will be one less fitting that I’ll have to worry about implementing into the intake track, so that along with a MAF delete will literally let me customize my intake hosing however I please without having to worry about anything connecting to it!
And for anyone who is currently running a vent to atmosphere kit for there n55 wether it’s the Ross racing kit or VTT kit and wishes to have vacuum again to have they’re engine run how it’s supposed to, I’m currently helping out one of the OG vendors here make a new kit for us just how it’s implemented on the n54 by externalizing the PCV system, so no more worrying about ripped diaphragms and replacing the entire valve cover just because of it. I can’t share more details then that at the moment because I want it to be cool surprise for us n55 guys who got the least amount of love from vendors lol, I’m sure he’ll be making a separate thread for when he releases his product!
@Richm240xi are you at all concerned about oily vapour going into the exhaust? I’m not familiar with these Venturi exhaust scavenging doohickies.
You feel any difference in spool?
I was looking under the hood of my x5 and look where the intake is on the b58. Hotside. Haha
Not really concerned, the n55 valve cover already has a pretty good baffle built into the valve cover, that’s why most people don’t even use catch cans on this platform unless pushing a lot of boost, worst case scenario if I feel like I’m seeing too much smoke coming from the exhaust, I can always just add a catch can inline before venting to the exhaust. The bung on the downpipe will also be after the main oxygen sensor as not too mess up any readings.
Gday Hoots..zero noticeable difference in spool.. was hoping to boost to 30 psi lol. I mentioned to Jim that when I went from standard intake to shorty( pod and inlet pipe) my iats dropped by at least 30% when cruising around... it around 30c here atm and my iat are around 38 (non urban light trafic) when they do go up sitting on a little trafic they drop quickly
This is without any shielding.
Has anyone else experienced the same?
Gday mate
Temp was ambient..I did comparison 4th gear log which showed the boost drop.
The iat were consistent in both logs..
The shortie intake is way cooler than stock inlet tube with open BMS that's for sure!
Wow, you had lower IAT with the shorty driving around town with shorty hot-side intake than you did with the full oem intake?
Yes.. no doubt..edit.. semi urban driving... not bumper to bumper city traffic..this hasn't been tested.
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JPuehl
Corporal
Keep in mind the filter for the shorty intake is right behind the right hand side headlight where outside air would be getting in around the gaps. I notice the same thing where the IATs cool quick when the car is moving. I put heat shields on the back side of the filter to try the block some of the heat radiating from the turbo, exhaust manifold and coolant expansion tank. Seems to help a little and was easy to do.
This is very encouraging. I may need to re-think my plan to run the full oem intake/airbox. Biggest reasons were keeping the MAF, and for IAT in city traffic. Sounds like the IAT concern may not really be a concern afterall
For those curious about my diesel coolant tank setup. I thought I’d update on a final fit.
It looks like there’s a bit more clearance in the flesh, I may clock the hose around a fraction to give a little more clearance to the A/C pump, at the expense of chassis leg clearance, but overall it’s a good fit to my eyes. What’re people’s thoughts?
Clearance to the power steering return hose is plenty.
It looks like there’s a bit more clearance in the flesh, I may clock the hose around a fraction to give a little more clearance to the A/C pump, at the expense of chassis leg clearance, but overall it’s a good fit to my eyes. What’re people’s thoughts?
Clearance to the power steering return hose is plenty.
