N54 Stock DME Flex Fuel

Jake@MHD

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Nov 7, 2016
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The above is not true.

Your car should never see 0% or 100% Ethanol. I view both as "error conditions." Using the fuel/timing/load interpolation tables, your tuner can set your "error condition" ethanol percent to bias however they want. 100% E does not have to use "all the boost" and like-wise, 0% doesn't have to use "pump gas fuel scalar". It is up to your tuner how to best set it up for your car.
 
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Tuningservice.no

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Nov 2, 2016
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So i took it all apart, checked cables and flashed to stock. All good exept for code on N20 sensor. Flashed to FlexFuel again and hooked up the ECA and FFsensor but not the AIC this time.
Got 4 codes on throttle/pedal and the car was idling up/down between 1000-1500rpm. Eca voltage showed 2,59 and 83,5 e%.

Disconnected the eca connector only and the codes went away, idles perfect and eca voltage is back to 4.06v and 100 e%.

Took it for a little spin and it boosts 30psi+ with 93 on in the tank.

Faulty ECA?

Sux not getting to use my track tool..
85B81313-3A7D-4FA2-BAF0-7B0BA646CD4C.jpeg
 
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Tuningservice.no

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Nov 2, 2016
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Where are you grounding the ECA and AIC?

I grounded both on the 6mm bolt on the bolt specified in the flexfuel installation manual.
I tested other places with the exact same results. With/without aic etc..
Even tested giving it power from a external battery on the floor.
 

blisstik

Corporal
Mar 27, 2018
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E92 MOTIV750 (Sold)
A custom dyno tune really smoothens out the power band, esp if you want a flatter torque line to make it more predictable.

Thanks Jeffman.
I can't imagine they need any more logs from me, lol.
My next move is possibly a custom tune or some inlets and outlets.
 

blisstik

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Mar 27, 2018
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E92 MOTIV750 (Sold)
Are you running any relays (i.e., for secondary LPFP)? Are you using one of the FF maps from MHD or is it custom?

I grounded both on the 6mm bolt on the bolt specified in the flexfuel installation manual.
I tested other places with the exact same results. With/without aic etc..
Even tested giving it power from a external battery on the floor.
 

Jake@MHD

Major
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Nov 7, 2016
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Disconnected the eca connector only and the codes went away, idles perfect and eca voltage is back to 4.06v and 100 e%.

4.0xV is what the DME will generally "float" at on this pin with nothing connected, this is expected.

Took it for a little spin and it boosts 30psi+ with 93 on in the tank.

I would stop doing that :)

Faulty ECA?

Yes, as I said please email Chris/Motiv and you can copy me if you want as well. As FlexFuel transitions out of closed beta, it will be impossible to troubleshoot multiple threads here. It belongs in an email thread, dedicated to you. Thanks.
 

Tuningservice.no

Specialist
Nov 2, 2016
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4.0xV is what the DME will generally "float" at on this pin with nothing connected, this is expected.



I would stop doing that :)



Yes, as I said please email Chris/Motiv and you can copy me if you want as well. As FlexFuel transitions out of closed beta, it will be impossible to troubleshoot multiple threads here. It belongs in an email thread, dedicated to you. Thanks.

So Jake @Motiv called me last saturday and we did some troubleshooting.
Ended up disconnecting it all and made a quick 93oct map so i could use the car.
He's sending me a new ECA and harness.

Killed second gear.
Throwing away the gs6-45bz box and putting in there a older/stronger gs6-53bz instead. Waiting for a pinion pin for my Motiv/Spec flywheel in the mail and the shortened driveshaft back from the shop.
 

tan_rich

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
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335is
For the senor with the engine bay short line, what would the best way to install it? I'm assuming you need to tackle it from both the top and bottom of the car?
 

Jeffman

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Jan 7, 2017
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For the senor with the engine bay short line, what would the best way to install it? I'm assuming you need to tackle it from both the top and bottom of the car?
Correct. After releasing pressure in the line from up top (you can also pull the LPFP fuse 40 in an E90 and try to start it), disconnect the hard line with the LPFP sensor from the HPFP. Unscrew the aluminum bolt holding down the hard line. Then remove the plastic collar from the hard line connector to the soft line - this is near the starter motor. Then go underneath the car, remove the plastic access panel directly underneath the driver, about 6-8 8mm screws iirc. Then detach the whiteish plastic line from several of the connectors leading to the tank to give yourself some slack to work with, then disconnect the flexible Fuel Line from the plastic line - There’s a black connector you’ll need to disconnect the hard line (or soft line, I forget which one) away using a screw driver or something similar to ultimately be able to disconnect the flexible line from the hard line. Then connector the short MOTIV line to the hard fuel line using the supplied connectors. Reattach the hard line to the connectors leading to the tank and fish the end of the MOTIV line up into the engine bay. Go back up top and connect the MOTIV line to the hard fuel line. Reattach the hard fuel line to the HPFP and to the engine using the aluminum bolt.

Picture of the ethanol sensor on the Motive short OEM fuel line replacement sitting in the “tunnel” beneath the driver (LHD) plugged into the orange wire bundle connector.
ED38ABDE-1051-4278-9DD5-61819E355269.jpeg
 
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tan_rich

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
89
18
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Ride
335is
Correct. After releasing pressure in the line from up top (you can also pull the LPFP fuse 40 in an E90 and try to start it), disconnect the hard line with the LPFP sensor from the HPFP. Unscrew the aluminum bolt holding down the hard line. Then remove the plastic collar from the hard line connector to the soft line - this is near the starter motor. Then go underneath the car, remove the plastic access panel directly underneath the driver, about 6-8 8mm screws iirc. Then detach the whiteish plastic line from several of the connectors leading to the tank to give yourself some slack to work with, then disconnect the flexible Fuel Line from the plastic line - There’s a black connector you’ll need to disconnect the hard line (or soft line, I forget which one) away using a screw driver or something similar to ultimately be able to disconnect the flexible line from the hard line. Then connector the short MOTIV line to the hard fuel line using the supplied connectors. Reattach the hard line to the connectors leading to the tank and fish the end of the MOTIV line up into the engine bay. Go back up top and connect the MOTIV line to the hard fuel line. Reattach the hard fuel line to the HPFP and to the engine using the aluminum bolt.

Picture of the ethanol sensor on the Motive short OEM fuel line replacement sitting in the “tunnel” beneath the driver (LHD) plugged into the orange wire bundle connector.
View attachment 14293
Oh i see, thanks. Another question regarding the aluminum fittings, how tight should they be? I feel like they could easily be stripped. Also is the ethanol content sensor just floating and not bolted to anything?
 

Jeffman

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Jan 7, 2017
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I responded earlier about tightening the aluminum fittings. I don’t have torque specs just muscle memory lol. I’m not used to these fittings so I may have over-torqued them when I heard some crunching sounds.

Regarding the ethanol content sensor, yes it’s just floating there. There was so much tension between the hardline mounting screw and the black clip in the tunnel that I didn’t bother with trying to mount the sensor.
 
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tan_rich

Specialist
Feb 6, 2018
89
18
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Ride
335is
Oh
I responded earlier about tightening the aluminum fittings. I don’t have torque specs just muscle memory lol. I’m not used to these fittings so I may have over-torqued then when I heard some crunching sounds.

Regarding the ethanol content sensor, yes it’s just floating there. There was so much tension between the hardline mounting screw and the black clip in the tunnel that I didn’t bother with trying to mount the sensor.
Oh yeah, rip your butt hole :tearsofjoy:. Thanks for all the help, hopefully my lpfp comes in next week so i can do it all at the same time.
 
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