This makes so much sense - heat shielding the downpipes - this way even more heat goes out the tailpipe rather than radiate to the engine block.
Here's what I did. Didn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
This makes so much sense - heat shielding the downpipes - this way even more heat goes out the tailpipe rather than radiate to the engine block.
Logs, one from a 11C ambient day - low I know.
- Got 2x Setrab 19 rows in.
- Castrol 5w-40
- Questionable mechanic says dump/flush coolant 50/50. So I diluted it to about 80% water assuming it was actually 50% (it looks like oil in a clear plastic bottle tbh, it's that dark so I don't believe the 50/50).
- Completed about 122 laps on a 2,2km circuit - not all out. Some cooldown laps in between since the tyres need them to come back.
https://datazap.me/u/gmx/bmw-1m-v5?log=0&data=3-24
Didn't log day 2 with even lower ambients of 7-8C ambient. But on dials/MHD gauges they were 115C
My question is OT; what oil are you track guys running? Esp @Asbjorn where you have to drive / start in cold weather to and from track?
Here is a temp log from the end of a 20 min session in about 85 degree weather. Stays around 210-220. I run straight distilled water with water wetter, CSF rad, mhd sport cooling, no a/c, vented hood. I’m running liqui-moly oil 5/40 with two setrab 625 coolers, and of course SRF.
LOL! Are you really going to say I was not pushing it and then ask what SRF is?What is SRF?
Apparently your iats in 85F ambeient are lower than what @gmx saw in 50F ambient. This tells me you were not pushing super hard? Either that or you are running water injection?
I believe we already know that a setup with CSF + 100% water + two oil coolers has no chance of keeping a tuned N54 cool if you really push it in +70F ambient. If you have proof that such a setup can actually handle +85F all out on track for more than five minutes I would really love to see it on datazap. And by "handle" - lets just say keeping coolant temps below 220F.
LOL! Are you really going to say I was not pushing it and then ask what SRF is?
SRF is castrol's brake fluid. This was the end of a 20 minute session at NCM in the advanced run group.I was asking you, sir, and purely from a scientific stand point. I don't know what SRF is, and I don't know how you enjoy your track driving. How much and how long you push matters alot as to what temps the engine develops. Different tracks also have limits as to how much you can push.
Pulling the A/C condenser from in front of the radiator and blocking the air flow around the radiator helps a lot. Plus a vent in hood helps pull the air out. This was the last hot lap of a 20 minute session in the advanced group at NCM. I will say, I was 10 seconds off on Sunday from Saturday. My tires (r888r) were shot by the end of Saturday and had no grip at all. I really should have changed them before, but I'm moving up a wheel size and didn't want to buy another set just for two days. I'll upload a lap video to YT in a minute. Was doing NCM at 2:29/2:30. Not the fastest ever, but not a Sunday drive.I was asking you, sir, and purely from a scientific stand point. I don't know what SRF is, and I don't know how you enjoy your track driving. How much and how long you push matters alot as to what temps the engine develops. Different tracks also have limits as to how much you can push.
SRF is castrol's brake fluid. This was the end of a 20 minute session at NCM in the advanced run group.
Pulling the A/C condenser from in front of the radiator and blocking the air flow around the radiator helps a lot. Plus a vent in hood helps pull the air out. This was the last hot lap of a 20 minute session in the advanced group at NCM. I will say, I was 10 seconds off on Sunday from Saturday. My tires (r888r) were shot by the end of Saturday and had no grip at all. I really should have changed them before, but I'm moving up a wheel size and didn't want to buy another set just for two days. I'll upload a lap video to YT in a minute. Was doing NCM at 2:29/2:30. Not the fastest ever, but not a Sunday drive.
I attached a csv lap extract. I couldn't get it to load properly in datazap. I'd say the exact opposite for NCM, there is a lot of full throttle and is hard on brakes. 3.15 miles/lap with 23 turns. I am moving to a 18x9.5 wheel to run 275/35/18s all around.SRF... omg, so the product I myself mentioned the m4 gt4 uses a few posts ago earlier today... Im getting old it seems
Anyhow I watched the video. This explains alot. This track seens to have very low % of wot per lap. Ie is easy on the engine in terms of cooling. You are like constantly turning in 3rd at low-mid rpm right? Probably easy on brakes as well?
BTW I would probably select tires that are great in corners for this track next time. From what Ive heard the r888r are better in braking and acceleration than handling, but Im no expert...
Are you using harrys laptimer with obd connection? If so please export the csv file from the hottest lap and upload to datazap for reference if possible? I find it very interesting that you actually removed the AC. Initially I thought you just turned it off. On my car I just placed an aux rad in front if the AC...
View attachment 28474
I attached a csv lap extract. I couldn't get it to load properly in datazap. I'd say the exact opposite for NCM, there is a lot of full throttle and is hard on brakes. 3.15 miles/lap with 23 turns. I am moving to a 18x9.5 wheel to run 275/35/18s all around.
Pure stage 2 and ADE650 ICHere's your lap in datazap
I manually deleted the first row to get it to load properly.
What turbos and fmic are you running? There's only 8C difference between your min and max iat over the entire lap.
One big easy improvement is to make sure you block off the stock air inlet holes in the front brace in front of the radiator. That keeps a lot of air from avoiding the radiator. I made a template with cardboard and cut it out of some sheet stock and epoxied to the plastic.Pure stage 2 and ADE650 IC
One big easy improvement is to make sure you block off the stock air inlet holes in the front brace in front of the radiator. That keeps a lot of air from avoiding the radiator. I made a template with cardboard and cut it out of some sheet stock and epoxied to the plastic.
My car is now getting some further cooling upgrades. We're replacing the stock auxilliary radiator with a properly ducted 34-row Setrab heat exchanger (the same Setrab I'm using as an oil cooler on the the passenger side).
In addition, I'm installing a Wagner Evo3 intercooler.
Finally, we're going to consider moving the air filter -- currently on the passenger side -- to the drivers side to get it away from the turbo.
We may also replace the crash beam behind the bumper cover with tubing, so I can vent the bumper cover if more airflow is needed.
Neil
One big easy improvement is to make sure you block off the stock air inlet holes in the front brace in front of the radiator. That keeps a lot of air from avoiding the radiator. I made a template with cardboard and cut it out of some sheet stock and epoxied to the plastic. View attachment 28503
Will the second Setrab be for coolant or oil?MDORPHN said:
My car is now getting some further cooling upgrades. We're replacing the stock auxilliary radiator with a properly ducted 34-row Setrab heat exchanger (the same Setrab I'm using as an oil cooler on the the passenger side).
In addition, I'm installing a Wagner Evo3 intercooler.
Finally, we're going to consider moving the air filter -- currently on the passenger side -- to the drivers side to get it away from the turbo.
We may also replace the crash beam behind the bumper cover with tubing, so I can vent the bumper cover if more airflow is needed.
Neil
Click to expand...
I saw that a few pages back, looks like a good idea if not running the standard airbox.
Will the second Setrab be for coolant or oil?
I too use SRF. It was actually hard to get the PFC08s up and working. Left OEM pads in the rear. The circuit and the type has an influence on overall temps which I've alluded to several posts back. There are guys on the 'ring that get away with relatively stock cooling systems and ducting because the track is high speed and high airflow. NCM looks med-high speed to me.
Here's my video, low-med speed. I don't get into 4th (about 6000rpm before T1/T2) anywhere except the main straight. Maybe with more grip, suspension (car is stock apart from camber plates, 18x9.5/18x10.5 wheels) I can get into 4th in some areas where I'm already pushing way too high RPM for the N54 with standard turbos; 6500rpm~
Second video so you can see that pushing 100% on these tyres is pointless, they get twitchy and fall off:
It's a control tyre for some forms of WTAC/Time Attack comps, and tends to be a good benchmark for us domestically. The max I could do on Day 2, colder day was 3x consecutive laps in the 1:07.9s, 3-4 tenths off "optimal". Timing is done with transponders on the car; we don't use phone apps etc as they're inaccurate esp with inbuilt GPS.
Only 14 rows of my Setrabs get air from the OEM 1M ducts. I am using untouched (just EPDM rubber shrouding) on the 1M standard wheel arch liners.