N54 6266 dyno at 809whp (796 SAE)

suspenceful

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Awesome! Now send me that BEF so I can try it out on my setup ;)

What shims did you use for the plugs?

Have you ever compared the R8 coils to PR coils?

All of this is good information because we're running very similar setups. I found the same ceiling with my 8.7psi wastegate springs. I also starting having the same bank 1 false lean condition at the end of pulls on the street last year. AFR1 would shoot up to 20, but AFR2 would continue as normal. Trims would both dive and then lock in at 25. I swapped the primary O2 sensors but the issue stayed on bank 1. This made me think it wasn't the O2 sensors, but I'm going to replace them to see if it fixes the issue.
 
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doublespaces

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All of this is good information because we're running very similar setups. I found the same ceiling with my 8.7psi wastegate springs.

Any reason you guys use the 8-9 pound spring, is it a JB4 thing? More control at low boost? 30FF? I have and it seems like many people I know have the 1 bar spring stack. Curious on the spring choice. If I can take a spring out, get better low boost control and still hit 30 psi if I needed to, that is why I'm curious.
 

veer90

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Awesome! Now send me that BEF so I can try it out on my setup ;)

What shims did you use for the plugs?

Have you ever compared the R8 coils to PR coils?

All of this is good information because we're running very similar setups. I found the same ceiling with my 8.7psi wastegate springs. I also starting having the same bank 1 false lean condition at the end of pulls on the street last year. AFR1 would shoot up to 20, but AFR2 would continue as normal. Trims would both dive and then lock in at 25. I swapped the primary O2 sensors but the issue stayed on bank 1. This made me think it wasn't the O2 sensors, but I'm going to replace them to see if it fixes the issue.

https://thunderproducts.com/product/spark-plug-indexing-washers/ I used these shims in the 14mm size.

Never had a chance to run PR coils, the R8 coils have been through hell and back and still going strong. Did some street pulls on the kill map last night and hit full boost up top, felt super clean no misfires or stuttering.

Replace the sensors, they're aging and you're putting too much heat into them. Are you on Bosch, ADV, or NTK?
 

doublespaces

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Don't, not worth it if you have a small rock stuck somewhere. That turbo will suck it right up. Our intake made no difference when I tested it on and off.
I already did all the dirty work for you guys.
I was only partly joking about unhooking the exhaust :)
 
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doublespaces

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Don't worry, I did all that testing for you guys too.

I did the open downpipe and did stock exhaust. Made over 800whp on both no difference in spool or power at any psi.
That's strange. It seems like I remember people saying exhaust upgrades helped after mid 600's. I still have the stock exhaust actually.
 

suspenceful

10 Second Club
Aug 1, 2017
559
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2015 M3, 2008 135i, 2009 335i
https://thunderproducts.com/product/spark-plug-indexing-washers/ I used these shims in the 14mm size.

Never had a chance to run PR coils, the R8 coils have been through hell and back and still going strong. Did some street pulls on the kill map last night and hit full boost up top, felt super clean no misfires or stuttering.

Replace the sensors, they're aging and you're putting too much heat into them. Are you on Bosch, ADV, or NTK?

What does the cylinders option mean? Do I just need single?

I've swapped primary O2s a few times now, these barely have any miles on them. I'm using Bosch via FCPEuro lifetime warranty.
 

suspenceful

10 Second Club
Aug 1, 2017
559
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2015 M3, 2008 135i, 2009 335i
Any reason you guys use the 8-9 pound spring, is it a JB4 thing? More control at low boost? 30FF? I have and it seems like many people I know have the 1 bar spring stack. Curious on the spring choice. If I can take a spring out, get better low boost control and still hit 30 psi if I needed to, that is why I'm curious.

Small spring allows me to just run at wastegate pressure with a click of a button. It's nice to have when the GF drives, when I'm autocrossing, etc. Having adjustability range from 9psi to 33psi is great. But I am thinking about putting in a higher spring, just because I do feel that the 9psi spring is slightly laggier.
 

veer90

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What does the cylinders option mean? Do I just need single?

I've swapped primary O2s a few times now, these barely have any miles on them. I'm using Bosch via FCPEuro lifetime warranty.

Cylinders is the number of packs you get. Each pack has 3x each color, iirc. I got 2 just in case, ended up only needing 1
 
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veer90

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I'm using the smallest spring possible since the safety map should be lowest boost possible. Hence "safety".

Too heavy spring also causes part throttle boost control issues. Although BMS recently updated the single turbo BEFs to suppress 30FE overboost at part throttle.
 
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Torgus

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@Torgus,

N53 cams = N54 cams
and aftermarket N54 valves and retainers fit the N53 like a glove, that's what I've been running on my car for the past 2500km with daily excursions to the 8000rpm redline. I really should get off my ass and make a video or two sometime...


Ahh thank you, I swear I read they were different but I must have missremembered. That is good news!

Regardless it would be nice to see more N54s reving out to 8.2k. another 1k of rpms adds up.
 
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chrisdfv

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Ahh thank you, I swear I read they were different but I must have missremembered. That is good news!

Regardless it would be nice to see more N54s reving out to 8.2k. another 1k of rpms adds up.

How sketchy is it to rev past 7K on a stock head?
 

Milan

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I think the amount of timing you are running is more impressive than the actual dyno. Props on the numbers!

Are you running with the knock sensors desensitized on your current setup? I feel like I've always had to do this to clean timing up, but the tuning pros on the internet always seem to be getting perfect timing without it.
 
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veer90

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I think the amount of timing you are running is more impressive than the actual dyno. Props on the numbers!

Are you running with the knock sensors desensitized on your current setup? I feel like I've always had to do this to clean timing up, but the tuning pros on the internet always seem to be getting perfect timing without it.

My engine is noisy. Most built engines are builders just don't admit it. Everyone seems to ignore the fact that knock sensor voltages, tables, etc. are calibrated for a stock, open deck motor running 93 making ~280whp. If you can get clean timing without altering factory knock tables, great. But sometimes it's needed for high power levels so the DME doesn't freak out.

I've had trim pots wired into the knock sensors for ~1.5 years now, DME still pulls timing when conditions require it to. This is hardware level desensitization, nothing was touched in the flash. Details here. https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=339464&postcount=1

I know of 3 other Motiv engines running the same setup.