I know that Turbosmart IWG 75 is not cheap and the price difference between the actuator I customized is almost half!You can check out Turbosmart as well, they sell good pressure-based traditional actuators you could use as well
N20 PWG negative pressure changed to positive pressure solenoid valve control
- Thread starter Tony
- Start date
To update, the traditional exhaust gas actuator has arrived and has been installed. It uses the original N20 solenoid valve.
The first test uses a 1.2bar spring. The continuous pressure is about 1bar. 4000rpm-5500rpm is about 1bar. 6000rpm is about 0.9X above.
The continuous pressure is not as good as the original factory. The original factory 4000rpm-5500rpm is about 1.3-1.4bar and above 6000rpm is 1.0-1.1bar.
The car is easier to drive now and the turbo comes on faster.
I will replace the 1.5bar spring today and will test it later.
In addition, I have a solenoid valve. I donβt know if it can be used. It is the model of Audi.
026 906 283 H / 7.21610.00
The first test uses a 1.2bar spring. The continuous pressure is about 1bar. 4000rpm-5500rpm is about 1bar. 6000rpm is about 0.9X above.
The continuous pressure is not as good as the original factory. The original factory 4000rpm-5500rpm is about 1.3-1.4bar and above 6000rpm is 1.0-1.1bar.
The car is easier to drive now and the turbo comes on faster.
I will replace the 1.5bar spring today and will test it later.
In addition, I have a solenoid valve. I donβt know if it can be used. It is the model of Audi.
026 906 283 H / 7.21610.00
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JPuehl
Corporal
You need the vacuum line going to the brake booster. The charge air and temp errors seems related to the T-MAP in the CP, is that connected. Unfortunately I'm not that familiar with the N20 but my daughter has an N20 in her '14 328 and I could look at the vacuum pump. I don't think your car will run correctly or at all with the codes.
Plus 1 on checking your tmap connection for those codes. I'm not familiar with that particular valve, not sure if that will run on high duty cycle frequency (250 - 300 ish Hz) PWM? It seems to have the same general shape as the Pierburg switchover solenoid valves that run on 32Hz. Their vacuum pressure converters that run on 300Hz are a completely different type of valve construction and operate differently than a standard switchover solenoid valve that runs on 32Hz - hence the different shapes.
I'm also not familiar with the n20 engine - Can you draw up a schematic of how you have your wastegate air lines and boost solenoid connected?
I'm also not familiar with the n20 engine - Can you draw up a schematic of how you have your wastegate air lines and boost solenoid connected?
My brake vacuum and solenoid valve vacuum should be separate
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I have no idea. I don't have the vacuum box connected at the moment. Only the turbo tube is the boost end.
The vacuum part didn't use him at all. same as video
@wheela The brake vacuum does not need to be connected to the vacuum tank, it is directly connected to the brake pump I drew a picture and hope you can understand it
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https://datazap.me/u/feel859411/log...a=0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17
https://datazap.me/u/feel859411/log...a=0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17
1. 1.5bar spring test 1-5 gears
2. 1.5bar spring test 4th gears
Use original N20 solenoid valve
https://datazap.me/u/feel859411/log...a=0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17
1. 1.5bar spring test 1-5 gears
2. 1.5bar spring test 4th gears
Use original N20 solenoid valve
I'm still not quite sure how you have everything plumbed up, so I made some pics for you. If you want to use these 300Hz vac solenoids for boost, you'll want to plumb it like one of these pics.
The pressure regulator is optional, but may be a good idea with your boost targets. The reason for the regulator is due to a limitation with the vac solenoid when running boost through it. The solenoid is only strong enough to vent away all boost up to around 14psi at 100% wgdc. This means two things:
1. Every psi over 14 psi will send boost through the vac solenoid to the wastegate actuator 1:1 (graphs attached for reference). So at 100% wgdc,
14psi boost sends 0psi to wastegate
15psi boost sends 1psi to wastegate
20psi boost sends 6psi to wastegate
Etc.
Therefore depending on your boost level this can cause your wastegate to open too soon. The regulator can stop this from happening, but the tradeoff is with the regulator you can't select a spring much higher than around 12psi or so, because you won't have enough boost pressure available to reliably open the wastegate, and you'll get boost creep.
2. The vac solenoids aren't designed to have more than around a 14psi pressure differential across the internal diaphragm. If you run more than 14psi boost to it, it's unknown how much boost will tear the diaphragm, or if the life of the solenoid valve will be shortened.
Also keep in mind, this isn't a mod that will work right just installing it. You'll need to re-tune so the DME can control boost properly as this wastegate control scheme is waaaaay different than stock.
The pressure regulator is optional, but may be a good idea with your boost targets. The reason for the regulator is due to a limitation with the vac solenoid when running boost through it. The solenoid is only strong enough to vent away all boost up to around 14psi at 100% wgdc. This means two things:
1. Every psi over 14 psi will send boost through the vac solenoid to the wastegate actuator 1:1 (graphs attached for reference). So at 100% wgdc,
14psi boost sends 0psi to wastegate
15psi boost sends 1psi to wastegate
20psi boost sends 6psi to wastegate
Etc.
Therefore depending on your boost level this can cause your wastegate to open too soon. The regulator can stop this from happening, but the tradeoff is with the regulator you can't select a spring much higher than around 12psi or so, because you won't have enough boost pressure available to reliably open the wastegate, and you'll get boost creep.
2. The vac solenoids aren't designed to have more than around a 14psi pressure differential across the internal diaphragm. If you run more than 14psi boost to it, it's unknown how much boost will tear the diaphragm, or if the life of the solenoid valve will be shortened.
Also keep in mind, this isn't a mod that will work right just installing it. You'll need to re-tune so the DME can control boost properly as this wastegate control scheme is waaaaay different than stock.
Attachments
Thanks for drawing some pictures for me. I am currently using the Audi solenoid valve shown in a previous post. I have it connected correctly but the pressure is only 0.7 bar. I don't know if it's because the frequency of the solenoid valve is not 300hz that causes only 0.7bar. There was a connection error a few days ago and the pressure was too high, as high as 1.8bar. If you accelerate in a high gear, the pressure will reach 2.3 bar. Fortunately, the engine did not explode. I will update the solenoid later. I will test and update the post
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It could be that valve. If it's meant for 32Hz, instead of being open a proportionate amount based on the duty cycle, it's likely staying 100% shut until a certain duty cycle is reached, and then if duty cycle gets high enough it toggles to 100% open once that threshold is hit.
Updated post: Currently using 3.0T solenoid valve 7.00887.22.0. Be careful when removing the vent cover. It may be sticky or designed not to be pulled. You need to remove the round cover first, take out the filter sponge inside, remove the edges, slowly pry it open, and then take it out. Be sure to remove carefully. My original 7.00887.21.0 solenoid was damaged just by prying open the ATM.
Solenoid Connections I wired the vent cover following @JPuehl 's wiring method. The boost end is connected to ATM for boost, OUT is connected to WGA, and VAC is connected to ATM. After two days of testing, the boost value is about 0.7bar. I did a test today, following @wheela 's suggestion of connecting the boost end to ATM and the OUT port to WGA. The VAC is connected to the atmosphere as well as to the oil and gas filter. The boost value is about 1bar-1.1bar. When the VAC is connected to the ATM, the voltage boost value is relatively low.
PS: The boost end originally had an adapter as the boost end, but later it was replaced with a pagoda screw to lock it behind the throttle. Since the booster end interface is larger, I estimate the flow rate will be greater. Both boost response and throttle response have been improved
. WDGC remains in the low 40-50% range. I will replace the 1.5bar spring and test it in a few days. If the boost value doesn't change, I'll retune the ECU.
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