oh those are just oem style replacement chra
this thread is in regards to larger, upgraded performance turbos
Lol sorry, I just thought it was purely the cheap chines turbo that’s all. Retract retract
oh those are just oem style replacement chra
this thread is in regards to larger, upgraded performance turbos
the oil filter housing is designed to prevent drain back on purpose, losing oil out of the filter housing every key off would be an issue not a solution
in fact, if you want to solve this 'issue' just remove the center basket , that will let the oil drain with the engine off. bam 'fixed'
im also going to need a link to these $199.99 turbos you bought
im all for these turbos working, but this is not a good look
I purchase a set of the Chinese brand turbos “FEDIC” off eBay for $198 out the door, shipped from China got to California within 4 days (Yes 4 days) I installed them myself back in summer of 2019 and now 50,000 miles later still no problems what so ever. I put easy 8,000 miles a month on my car.
regarding your comment about “they are poorly balance out of the box” is not true at all.
I personally have very good experience with these turbos so when it was deliver I didn’t have to do squat except to install them, no balancing, no tightening or make any adjustment since it was ready to install.
Now I will Share with every one as to WHAT CAUSES OUR TURBO TO FAIL!!!!!
The answer is..........OUR DAMN OIL FILTERS!!!!!!
YES YES EVERYONE I am 100% sure why because I have gone through two sets of OEM turbos thinking one was a bad batch but it wasn’t how they are made or a bad batch. If you put a chinese cheap brand or a high end gold dipped USA made that cost $10,000 vs $200 both will still fail if our oil filter isn’t change every 2,000 miles.
Here’s what I’m saying.....
We don’t need to change our oil every 2,000 miles but do it at every 3k, 5k or 7k miles regularly the only difference or change we MUST make is to replace the OIL filter every 2,000 miles by twisting the cap off and put in the new oil filter leaving the oil untouched for another 2k more miles.
Our turbos suck the motor oil and burns it faster then the engine piston themselves so now we have two mouths to feed vs non turbo vehicles.
Don’t believe me go ahead and open up your oil filter without draining your pan you’ll see the amount of oil still full and trap in the filter cap when it should have been drained back down into the engine while your car is off. Now if that’s the case hurry up and replace that filter or your turbo feed lines will be getting little to no oil burning up the turbo shaft and smoking white clouds will be coming out the tail pipe real soon.
I bought a total of 20 packs of oil filter from eBay for $100 and I replace them more then I swap condoms, and now my cheap $198 turbo Chines made are going on more then 50,000 miles.
not true, unless youre using a crap filterCan’t remove the middle basket because it will cause the filter to collapse, I already tried that.
Hey thanks for this thread.. I have a question is it normal to get the 30FF low boost error after fitting these chargers?
I have an appointment for a tune next week but currently the car runs rough and as soon as I get over 2k rpm the engine light kicks in with the dtc error 30FF low boost.
I'm trying to figure out if it's a boost leak or faulty turbo or I just need a custom tune due to bigger turbo size?
Thanks
Gee
Hey thanks for this thread.. I have a question is it normal to get the 30FF low boost error after fitting these chargers?
I have an appointment for a tune next week but currently the car runs rough and as soon as I get over 2k rpm the engine light kicks in with the dtc error 30FF low boost.
I'm trying to figure out if it's a boost leak or faulty turbo or I just need a custom tune due to bigger turbo size?
Thanks
Gee
Get a mighty vac vacuum gauge and put it on the wastegate port. You want the wastegate to be closed, but not tight at 5.5", and tight at 6". You'll need to remove the downpipes of course to see the wastegate flapper. If it's too loose, you loosen the nut and adjust the rod until it's where you want it, then tighten the nut back.What would be considered the proper way to adjust the wastegates for these?
My ones have been under target about 3-3psi and slow to build the boost.
I may have a boost leak but have checked everything and replaced vacuum lines can't find a leak.
Is there a post where we talk about the different meth kits with their advantages or disadvantages?Meth is cheap and works well. I would argue it is less expensive to get to 700whp with meth than it is E85.
Meth is cheap and works well. I would argue it is more expensive than Heroin and less addictive.
In all seriousness meth works great to boost octane and lower air charge temps. Anyone who does not have easy E85 access should be running it. At 50/50 a 5 gallon pail lasts a while.
Is there a post where we talk about the different meth kits with their advantages or disadvantages?
where I live there is no ethanol, only s95 (eur)
the only solution to have good performance is the meth kit
I would like advice or opinions on this subject
I have already tried to find my happiness with the "search" function but with google translation it is complicated
thank you very much for your adviceWhy don't you start a new thread called which meth kit should I buy? Or something to that effect.
I will give you my thoughts as will others.