Just run a Victor Reinz HG with studs and call it a day. Works fine on my build as well. No spraying around or whatsoever.
Isn't the Victor Reinz the same as the OEM BMW Gasket? I heard VR was the original manufacturer.Just run a Victor Reinz HG with studs and call it a day. Works fine on my build as well. No spraying around or whatsoever.
There is no reason a well designed cut ring gasket is letting go around coolant ports any more than another type of well designed gasket. The hardest job the head gasket does is stop the cylinder pressure getting out.From what I read, I thought the Cutring type gaskets sealed the cylinders better, but has more issues with sealing around the coolant ports? Is that not the case? Any special type of machine work needed to the block or head to run the gasket? What brand would you suggest? Thanks!
I take note of your advice... personally I don't want to go that far. I don't think I'll exceed 650whp...that's why switching to 11mm poses a problem for meI wouldn´t take advice from that guy. Anyone else. But seriously not him
If you want to be bullet proof. ARP 11mm all around with Athena Cut Ring. That is where many of the 1000hp guys go.
Ok so I typically look to provide myself a 150-200% safety on things. Over engineering so to speak. So if I'm looking for something that will hold 650whp, I want something rated for 650 * 1.5 = ~1000 whp.I take note of your advice... personally I don't want to go that far. I don't think I'll exceed 650whp...that's why switching to 11mm poses a problem for me
great thank you, I take note of your thoughts. I haven't yet done any further research on 11mm studs. what's more, it's a very technical subject...and Google has a lot of trouble translating. for the installation I thought it was necessary to "simply" drill and then redo the thread... but this weekend I heard about the NS300l inserts... I watched a few videos... but I can't really understand its importance . sorry I don't want to bother you with stupid questionsOk so I typically look to provide myself a 150-200% safety on things. Over engineering so to speak. So if I'm looking for something that will hold 650whp, I want something rated for 650 * 1.5 = ~1000 whp.
Offering another rationalization for upsizing.
Hi Omar. Thank you very much for your feedback samstars (a French guy you know) gave me the same opinion as you this morning. In the future I will stick to the original screws...a Victor Reinz head gasket....but install quality Mahle pistons and connecting rods.IMHO there is no need for any of this when running boost pressures below 2.0bar on gasoline-based fuels especially (even with meth), and certainly not on an open-deck block.
with the 35ish mm threats on the ARP studs you will need to use NS300l time serts on the outer corners.great thank you, I take note of your thoughts. I haven't yet done any further research on 11mm studs. what's more, it's a very technical subject...and Google has a lot of trouble translating. for the installation I thought it was necessary to "simply" drill and then redo the thread... but this weekend I heard about the NS300l inserts... I watched a few videos... but I can't really understand its importance . sorry I don't want to bother you with stupid questions
Thank you very much for your feedback. Thanks to everyone's opinions, I'm starting to know what to do in the more or less near future. I hardly ride...that gives me time to prepare.with the 35ish mm threats on the ARP studs you will need to use NS300l time serts on the outer corners.
If you are using either HCR or mine supplied studs you won't need to timesert the outer corners.
I lifted the head with stock head bolts at around 28PSI on a opened engine.
You can continue driving but I would suggest to monitor coolant pressure at least then.
BTW I have plenty studs available in case anyone needs some.
I'm using them as well with a Victor Reinz MLS gasket without issues at 927EHP/814WHP