MHD v9.0 beta

[DCTFox]

So I tried my best, but Google sucks and keeps blocking my transactions so I can’t buy the flashing license.

Tried debit/credit card, PayPal, no good. So then I bought a £130 gift card from amazon but they wouldn’t send the email without approval from my bank which is closed because it’s Sunday so ended up cancelling that. Guess I’ll have to call Google or something during the week and try again.

 

[namsu2430]

So I tried my best, but Google sucks and keeps blocking my transactions so I can’t buy the flashing license.

Tried debit/credit card, PayPal, no good. So then I bought a £130 gift card from amazon but they wouldn’t send the email without approval from my bank which is closed because it’s Sunday so ended up cancelling that. Guess I’ll have to call Google or something during the week and try again.

Sounds like a right pita

I think buying the Google play vouchers from a store works best. Since there's no messing around with card authorization.

If you don't have other licences atm I would recommend making a new google account specifically for your car which would allow you to transfer licences in the future.

 

[DCTFox]

Sounds like a right pita

I think buying the Google play vouchers from a store works best. Since there's no messing around with card authorization.

If you don't have other licences atm I would recommend making a new google account specifically for your car which would allow you to transfer licences in the future.

Yeah might try the gift card route if I get a chance to go to the shop before it closes, seems people have had success with that. I doubt those things are refundable once you’ve scratched them though and if it didn’t work I’d be pretty annoyed.

 

[DCTFox]

Ended up going to the shop and spending £200 on gift cards; still didn’t work
Made a new google play account and it worked, so I bought the flasher module, stage 1 pack and monitor module.
Weather is treacherous right now though so will have to wait before I can flash it.

 

[DCTFox]

The rain stopped so I flashed it to Stage 1 98 RON and went for a drive. Drove very gently whilst waiting for the engine to get up to temp, it was still wet outside so couldn’t really plant my foot. Started rolling in to the throttle, got to maybe 50% throttle and suddenly engine light comes on and car starts running HORRIBLY. Pulled over, shut the car off for a minute and started it back up again, engine light is gone and seems to be running okay. Limped it home and got the tablet out to read the following codes:

DME Active codes
29D0: Misfire cylinder 4

DME Shadow codes:
2AAF: Fuel pump, plausibility
2DA3: No coding

Looking at the service history seems the spark plugs were last changed at 70k miles so maybe it just needs new plugs.

 

[namsu2430]

The rain stopped so I flashed it to Stage 1 98 RON and went for a drive. Drove very gently whilst waiting for the engine to get up to temp, it was still wet outside so couldn’t really plant my foot. Started rolling in to the throttle, got to maybe 50% throttle and suddenly engine light comes on and car starts running HORRIBLY. Pulled over, shut the car off for a minute and started it back up again, engine light is gone and seems to be running okay. Limped it home and got the tablet out to read the following codes:

DME Active codes
29D0: Misfire cylinder 4

DME Shadow codes:
2AAF: Fuel pump, plausibility
2DA3: No coding

Looking at the service history seems the spark plugs were last changed at 70k miles so maybe it just needs new plugs.

I'd swap the coil from 4 to one of the others and see if it follows. Might be a coil instead

 

[DCTFox]

I'd swap the coil from 4 to one of the others and see if it follows. Might be a coil instead

Good point, I’ll try that. Probably about time to get new plugs anyway seeing as they are about 35k miles old now.
Would you recommend 1 step colder for a bone stock stage 1 car or just OE replacements? Everywhere I’ve read recommends 1 step colder for FBO+.

 

[namsu2430]

Good point, I’ll try that. Probably about time to get new plugs anyway seeing as they are about 35k miles old now.
Would you recommend 1 step colder for a bone stock stage 1 car or just OE replacements? Everywhere I’ve read recommends 1 step colder for FBO+.

Depends on your plans. If you're going to upgrade to FBO then 1 step colder would be fine. You can run the stock Bosch too. Where are you? Carparts4less in the UK has ngk one step colder for £54(6)

 

[DCTFox]

Depends on your plans. If you're going to upgrade to FBO then 1 step colder would be fine. You can run the stock Bosch too. Where are you? Carparts4less in the UK has ngk one step colder for £54(6)

I won’t be going FBO any time soon and will most likely remain pretty much bone stock for the foreseeable future with the exception of a charge pipe and possibly FMIC at some point so OE Bosch will probably suffice for now. I’m also in the UK, got the day off work tomorrow so will probably nip to ECP and get some OE plugs. (£56 for 6)
I’ll test the coils before I go in case I need to add 6 new coils to my order

 

[namsu2430]

I won’t be going FBO any time soon and will most likely remain pretty much bone stock for the foreseeable future with the exception of a charge pipe and possibly FMIC at some point so OE Bosch will probably suffice for now. I’m also in the UK, got the day off work tomorrow so will probably nip to ECP and get some OE plugs. (£56 for 6)
I’ll test the coils before I go in case I need to add 6 new coils to my order

You can run stage 1+ if it's cold out and you monitor air intake temps.

You should join the WhatsApp group. Few DCT guys on there too , most active guys are in the UK.

If your getting coils get Delphi ones , they seem to be more resilient

 

[DCTFox]

You can run stage 1+ if it's cold out and you monitor air intake temps.

You should join the WhatsApp group. Few DCT guys on there too , most active guys are in the UK.

If your getting coils get Delphi ones , they seem to be more resilient

Yeah I do plan to go to Stage 1+, thought I’d start off with 1 first though seeing as I’m still on stock charge pipe and didn’t wanna tempt fate. Only picked the car up on Friday.
I’ll have a look in a bit and see about joining the WhatsApp.
I was hoping I could do next day collection with ECP but looks like they won’t be ready til Wednesday so I’ll have to see if I can find somewhere else to get them tomorrow, or just wait a few days and be gentle on the throttle lol.

 

[namsu2430]

Yeah I do plan to go to Stage 1+, thought I’d start off with 1 first though seeing as I’m still on stock charge pipe and didn’t wanna tempt fate. Only picked the car up on Friday.
I’ll have a look in a bit and see about joining the WhatsApp.
I was hoping I could do next day collection with ECP but looks like they won’t be ready til Wednesday so I’ll have to see if I can find somewhere else to get them tomorrow, or just wait a few days and be gentle on the throttle lol.

If your just new to the platform the WhatsApp group is great. Almost instant help when you get stuck and everyones at least has some problem so lots of experience.

I'd recommend flashing the latest ZSUB for the DCT if your cars 2008/09 as it's made a big difference to mine as it was still on the older 2009 software.

 

[aus335iguy]

You guys know about the DCT section on here right?

DCT - Getrag GS7D

7DCT Transmission E9X/E8X/F10/F80 F10 M5: 36BG E87/F80: 36SG

bmw.spoolstreet.com

 

[namsu2430]

You guys know about the DCT section on here right?

DCT - Getrag GS7D

7DCT Transmission E9X/E8X/F10/F80 F10 M5: 36BG E87/F80: 36SG

bmw.spoolstreet.com

Yeah I'm on 'the list' for paying towards development. Following most of the threads on there too. I've got the GWS and centre consoles, still waiting to see what happens in the next few months on the final drive if I need to change the diff

 

[DCTFox]

If your just new to the platform the WhatsApp group is great. Almost instant help when you get stuck and everyones at least has some problem so lots of experience.

I'd recommend flashing the latest ZSUB for the DCT if your cars 2008/09 as it's made a big difference to mine as it was still on the older 2009 software.

I am new to the platform in terms of ownership but I’ve been lurking and learning for the best part of two years so I’ve got a good grasp of all the N54 basics. Just joined the group cheers mate!

 

[Asbjorn]

Attached https://m.facebook.com/groups/16196...ink&id=2705219249591554&fs=2&focus_composer=0
View attachment 35134

Two comments

1) If I put DCT into S mode, and keep everything else normal, I get the loudest bang during shifting in lower gears. But only if I use just the right amount of part throttle. It doesn't happen on wot or during normal driving, and I haven't been able to achieve it in D or M modes. I have to accelerate in a very certain, semi-aggressive way, and let S mode auto shift at mid rpms to get the explosion. I usually avoid it, even subconsciously, because it is just super loud.
2) He talks about putting the car in DCS=off and then sport mode. I don't know about 1/3-series, but Z4s wont stay in DSC=off if you select sport mode.

 

[namsu2430]

Two comments

1) If I put DCT into S mode, and keep everything else normal, I get the loudest bang during shifting in lower gears. But only if I use just the right amount of part throttle. It doesn't happen on wot or during normal driving, and I haven't been able to achieve it in D or M modes. I have to accelerate in a very certain, semi-aggressive way, and let S mode auto shift at mid rpms to get the explosion. I usually avoid it, even subconsciously, because it is just super loud.
2) He talks about putting the car in DCS=off and then sport mode. I don't know about 1/3-series, but Z4s wont stay in DSC=off if you select sport mode.

Reply from Ronnie

"He should ask and I’ll explain. But he is right for the most part. DCT 1/2 off*.
The Z4 might have different software for the DSC."

 

[DCTFox]

Swapped coils from 3 & 4 this morning and went for a maccies run. Put my foot down twice on the way back but didn’t have much room and couldn’t get it to misfire, will go for a drive later and try again. Got new plugs and coils coming this week either way.

Had a look at the injectors as well while I had the cover off; looks like cylinders 1, 2 & 3 are index 9 and 4, 5 & 6 are index 12s so cant imagine the misfire was injector related.

Back to the original topic, not that I’ve had the chance to drive it much yet but I personally haven’t noticed any ‘blip’ on upshifts so far, although it’s on stock exhaust so pretty quiet anyways.

 

[Asbjorn]

Swapped coils from 3 & 4 this morning and went for a maccies run. Put my foot down twice on the way back but didn’t have much room and couldn’t get it to misfire, will go for a drive later and try again. Got new plugs and coils coming this week either way.

Had a look at the injectors as well while I had the cover off; looks like cylinders 1, 2 & 3 are index 9 and 4, 5 & 6 are index 12s so cant imagine the misfire was injector related.

Back to the original topic, not that I’ve had the chance to drive it much yet but I personally haven’t noticed any ‘blip’ on upshifts so far, although it’s on stock exhaust so pretty quiet anyways.

No bangs on upshifts with stock exhaust, I forgot to make that clear haha

fyi:

Quote: Injectors with index 11 and higher have a different calibration and construction than injectors with index 10 and lower. Due to this difference, the injectors with index 11 and higher and injectors with index 10 and lower cannot be mixed on the same engine bank (i.e., cylinders 1-3 or 4-6). Once a bank of injectors is at index 11 or higher, the “bank set replacement” requirement no longer applies. For index 11 injector failures, only replace the failed injector

Source: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-814958.html

 

[aus335iguy]

Two comments

1) If I put DCT into S mode, and keep everything else normal, I get the loudest bang during shifting in lower gears. But only if I use just the right amount of part throttle. It doesn't happen on wot or during normal driving, and I haven't been able to achieve it in D or M modes. I have to accelerate in a very certain, semi-aggressive way, and let S mode auto shift at mid rpms to get the explosion. I usually avoid it, even subconsciously, because it is just super loud.
2) He talks about putting the car in DCS=off and then sport mode. I don't know about 1/3-series, but Z4s wont stay in DSC=off if you select sport mode.

The original post said he reset certain adaptations. Did you?
Also I watched a BQ tuning YouTube video there’s a mode on theZs called sport traction is that what you’re talking about ?