LMB 650 is coming alive

[ShocknAwe]

Yeah man, as long as you’ve got a hydraulic rack. Please see my below shameless self plug.

How to Fit the E9x M3 Belly Pan to the E8x

This is how to fit the structural M3 belly pan to your 1er. The benefits of this are increased structural rigidity of your front end, with better suspension performance as a result. There will be 2 ways of doing this, the full belly pan and the front only trimmed belly pan. YOU MUST HAVE A...

www.babybmw.net

I believe Biginboca was the first to do it on the E9x. It’s about halfway through the thread.

Building the E92 328csl

Building the E92 328csl

www.e90post.com

Hope I'm not derailing anything. I have nonM E82 front subf4ame, 1M wide body panels. 1M pan. E92M3 hydraulic rack.

Will it fit?

Do I still use the plastic belly pan after or ditch it.

@JohnDaviz so you welded a bung onto the coolant line and routed to where, an expansion port under the rear turbo? Having a hard time locating your coolant system tap.

 

[CalvinNismo]

I have nonM E82 front subf4ame, 1M wide body panels. 1M pan. E92M3 hydraulic rack.

Will it fit?

Do I still use the plastic belly pan after or ditch it.

If you chop the stiffening plate like John or myself, it will fit with the plastic under tray.

If you go for the full stiffening plate, the plastic under tray will not go on. The M3 doesn’t run an under tray, but has specific plastics to shield areas that the would normally be protected by the non-M under trays.

 

[JohnDaviz]

Subframe:
I ordered new bushings and still debating in my head for going full aluminum bushings on the outer corners.
My issue is that I only spend money on the car with money I have saved for that purpose and currently the fund is nearly empty

So the rear subframe project will now probably be not finished until end of January I guess.

---

Mapping:
I am mapping the car myself and currently having a Multimap with 14,16,17 and 18PSI as targets.

My biggest issue are the Vanos settings due to the different setup.
When I do WOT tests the car feels weird above 4.5 to 5krpm. It feels like the engine cannot breath properly. Either not getting enough air into the engine or out of the engine.

I knew it will be a VANOS thing but wasn´t sure on which side to start figuring out. But then yesterday evening i thought.. What could possibly go wrong when I open the exhaust valves earlier... besides hotter exhaust gasses the engine would 100% be able to get rid of the combustion gasses better with earlier opening ex valves.

As I am lucky to have some ppl who i share maps and information with i was confirmed about exactly that. With a ported head and way more flow it seems that there are tuners who start to open the ex valves even earlier than on stock maps.

Et voila. Car was asking for more boost this morning That restriction feeling is completely gone.

Small Log from this morning. How do insert it properly so it is embbeded in this post?!

5.10 Vanos Improvement - 16 PSI

Ex Valves opening earlier

www.spoolstreet.com

 

[jzx_andy]

Hide legend Reset zoom

So you can click the link to your graph and there is a bbcode underneath it that you can copy and paste into a post.

 

[JohnDaviz]

Okay. So you guys got me into really thinking about rear subframe Bushings.

Do Aussie Cars have the DMTL Pump in the rear? Because I found bushings in Germany and they claim 12mm subframe raise Plug and Play. So there has to be some kind of difference between a german E92 and an aussie E92.

I haven´t been under my car for a while now so right now I trust MK-Motorsport and am looking into raising the subframe ... while i am in there

My Strongflex bushings have a 10mm plateau on the big bushings and nearly 15mm on the small ones. I think the big ones are towards the bumper side.

Now.. Why shouldn´t i raise the rear subframe. From a technical POV it makes perfect sense if your car is lowered.

I hope that someone I know can make me those parts. The raw material is lying around. So crossing fingers that I will get a nice christmas present.

 

[ShocknAwe]

Sorry, raise the subframe?

 

[wheela]

Sorry, raise the subframe?

Raise is a confusing word to me too in this context, I believe by raise they mean bring the subframe closer to the chassis.

 

[JohnDaviz]

Sorry, raise the subframe?

Yes. Technically you are raising the subframe further from the ground. And like @wheela said closer to the chassis.
There is a gap of 10-15mm between the subframe and the chassis. I just learned that also.

 

[jzx_andy]

Okay. So you guys got me into really thinking about rear subframe Bushings.

Do Aussie Cars have the DMTL Pump in the rear? Because I found bushings in Germany and they claim 12mm subframe raise Plug and Play. So there has to be some kind of difference between a german E92 and an aussie E92.

I believe the only difference between a German and Aussie e92 is RHD vs LHD and some very minor things like the frequency band for the radio etc. Both are Euro spec cars and should be identical when it comes to emissions equipment.

 

[JohnDaviz]

I believe the only difference between a German and Aussie e92 is RHD vs LHD and some very minor things like the frequency band for the radio etc. Both are Euro spec cars and should be identical when it comes to emissions equipment.

Then i am confused about two very different statements..

CMP says that their 10mm lift is not P&P
MK Motorsport states 12mm P&P

 

[CalvinNismo]

I have also been curious about this John, I have emailed both CMP and Millway (I have Millway M bushes waiting to go in to a refurbished subframe). To me the CMP and M Millway bushes look very, very similar.

From CMP:

The ones shown on the site are the 6mm design. The 10mm variant are like the Non-M style and install from beneath as there is no room for a glance between the subframe & chassis.

From Millway:

We try to raise the subframe as close to the body as possible without doing any modifications to the sheet metal. So they will improve handling and roll centre on lowered cars.

I asked how much they raise the subframe by, this is what they said:

It depends on how you measure because the rubber changes height with its flex. But approximately 7mm.

I noticed that my rear arch gap increased when I installed my (Millway) solid mounted subframe. I did not change the springs or dampers. I have only recently thought that this must be because the subframe is closer to the car (before Millway confirmed). The spring is the same length, but the gap is between the chassis and the pivot of the arm is smaller, so the arm must move down. At least that’s my logical thought process.

Here is the non-M Millway on my car. The rear raised bit is 4mm tall. The front is 9.7mm tall. From my initial measurements of the front Millway M bush will be 3mm or so closer to the chassis than the non-M. Though Millway have said they are the same height.

I have seen the MK ones, a 12mm raise must have the subframe touching the chassis.

 

[JohnDaviz]

I noticed that my rear arch gap increased when I installed my (Millway) solid mounted subframe. I did not change the springs or dampers. I have only recently thought that this must be because the subframe is closer to the car (before Millway confirmed). The spring is the same length, but the gap is between the chassis and the pivot of the arm is smaller, so the arm must move down. At least that’s my logical thought process.

I have seen the MK ones, a 12mm raise must have the subframe touching the chassis.

Your thought process is correct. You need to lower your coilovers after raising the subframe if it is lifted.

And i am 99% positive that MK is mounting the frame directly to the chassis. Like on F80 M3/4s. Their subframe is mounted directly to the chassis.

The bushings i made above are measured this way. No gap between frame and chassis.

 

[carabuser]

Subframe:
I ordered new bushings and still debating in my head for going full aluminum bushings on the outer corners.
My issue is that I only spend money on the car with money I have saved for that purpose and currently the fund is nearly empty

So the rear subframe project will now probably be not finished until end of January I guess.

---

Mapping:
I am mapping the car myself and currently having a Multimap with 14,16,17 and 18PSI as targets.

My biggest issue are the Vanos settings due to the different setup.
When I do WOT tests the car feels weird above 4.5 to 5krpm. It feels like the engine cannot breath properly. Either not getting enough air into the engine or out of the engine.

I knew it will be a VANOS thing but wasn´t sure on which side to start figuring out. But then yesterday evening i thought.. What could possibly go wrong when I open the exhaust valves earlier... besides hotter exhaust gasses the engine would 100% be able to get rid of the combustion gasses better with earlier opening ex valves.

As I am lucky to have some ppl who i share maps and information with i was confirmed about exactly that. With a ported head and way more flow it seems that there are tuners who start to open the ex valves even earlier than on stock maps.

Et voila. Car was asking for more boost this morning That restriction feeling is completely gone.

Small Log from this morning. How do insert it properly so it is embbeded in this post?!

5.10 Vanos Improvement - 16 PSI

Ex Valves opening earlier

www.spoolstreet.com

What do you mean by the car was asking for more boost? The WGDC was the same but the boost reading was lower?

 

[JohnDaviz]

What do you mean by the car was asking for more boost? The WGDC was the same but the boost reading was lower?

Oh i was just happy how healthy everything feels now. Like "time to turn the boost up".

 

[JohnDaviz]

So my Bushings seem to be in production. Cross Fingers they are finished soon.

Changed plans for the front diffusor mounting. Need to get some material but hell did i spent money lately.

So as there are basically no real news I am just teasing you something really great going on. @Olza
Not wanna hide anything. This is just a start and we are working on some things still as this is just the first version of the maps. So there is still some work to be done but Olza and I are determined to get it done!

 

[JohnDaviz]

So the GTS tune takes more testing than expected.. And the weather really doesn´t help..

Current plan is preparing my spare subframe this Saturday for swap.

I received 12 MEYLE No. 314710005 Bushings to change on all the arms.
As i will not receive my designed Bushings i ordered some Stuff from CMP Autoengineering in Australia.
The order was their solid subframe bushings which raise the subframe a little bit. I received those shims for the control arms on the hub side and for the front Roll Centre and Bum Steer Correction Shims.

As i am running the stock Roll-Over Strut i ordered the Coilover Mounts from Strongflex.

 

[JohnDaviz]

Oh and i forgot.

I bought a whole diff to get the Diff cover with those cooling fins.

 

[ShocknAwe]

How's the diffuser coming? Love those solid aluminum bushings!

Tell me about the bump steer shims.

 

[JohnDaviz]

yeah the bushings look fantastic!

The bump steer shims will be installed later also. I have no idea how they will work out but they put the arms back into a more angled position just as stock. Just like the raising bushings will do at the rear.
Not quite as they were but helping. So far i can´t tell if they are worth the money or not but just make sense from a design view.

But if you check Schirmer or other well known companies. They try to do all the same. Putting the arms back into an angled position after lowering the car. Arms don´t want to be horizontal or even work in negative angle.

 

[ShocknAwe]

Looking forward to seeing photo of your subframe with measurements to compare to mine. I have the bimmerworld solids.