jzx_andy's E92 progress thread

[AzNdevil]

Yeah, it's pricey for what it is. The CMP one is $279 AUD, which is about $193 USD, versus $260 USD for the BimmerWorld item.

it says $1521 usd for me lol...thats why i said its pricy..... if it was 279 aud, i mightve went with this instead
either way, this upgrade is well worth it especially when combined with spherial joint rear arms

but stock traction control hates it a lot since everything is directly transfered to the road or the chassis now that there is less rubber absorbing the forces...i noticed my traction control kicking in more often on bumpy surfaces especially when WOT

 

[SLOWESTN54]

@jzx_andy what tool did you use to install the new bushings.

 

[jzx_andy]

@jzx_andy what tool did you use to install the new bushings.

I didn't.

I tried to DIY it and used an ebay spec bushing tool kit to change the diff bushings. Then moved onto the subframe bushings. Tried to torch and hammer them out like a monkey, didn't work.

Got frustrated and ended up dropping off the bare subframe, control arms and knuckles at a local shop, and got them to swap all the bushings/monoballs/bearings over for me. That ebay toolkit was such a waste on me

 

[jzx_andy]

it says $1521 usd for me lol...thats why i said its pricy..... if it was 279 aud, i mightve went with this instead
either way, this upgrade is well worth it especially when combined with spherial joint rear arms

but stock traction control hates it a lot since everything is directly transfered to the road or the chassis now that there is less rubber absorbing the forces...i noticed my traction control kicking in more often on bumpy surfaces especially when WOT

That price is a total joke man haha.

What combination of dsc unit/flash are you running? I'd say that plays an important role in how annoying TC is.

I was tossing up on flashing the M3 software on my non-M DSC, but I read somewhere that the non-M software was generally less intrusive with TC. However, I am tempted to source the m3 gts nettodat values and plop them in on the factory software (if you can even do that lol), since the gts had a factory lsd, solid mounted rear subframe and coilovers etc.

So far I've kept the factory DSC software and coded out several annoying nannies, like the e-diff and brake fade compensation.

What are your thoughts on DSC software/coding with firmed up suspension and bushings?

 

[carabuser]

I want to refresh the rear axle on my 335 so I've just been pricing things up. Looking to just go with OEM parts aside from the M3 control arms. I'm actually tempted to do an M3 diff install while I'm in there after seeing this thread.

I coded my DSC using the M3 settings as shown in this thread: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/customizable-traction-control-settings.7954/page-3
It made a huge difference. I no longer get the obnoxious power cuts when everything is on. It actually keeps pushing through when launching and lets the wheels spin a little.
Having a well setup tune also helps, the traction control system runs off torque values so having both the fast and slow torque paths accurate means the fast and slow interventions sent from the DSC are giving the intended response. There's actually a bug in MHD that over-inflates the slow path torque requests but I'm trying to work that out with them.

 

[AzNdevil]

That price is a total joke man haha.

What combination of dsc unit/flash are you running? I'd say that plays an important role in how annoying TC is.

I was tossing up on flashing the M3 software on my non-M DSC, but I read somewhere that the non-M software was generally less intrusive with TC. However, I am tempted to source the m3 gts nettodat values and plop them in on the factory software (if you can even do that lol), since the gts had a factory lsd, solid mounted rear subframe and coilovers etc.

So far I've kept the factory DSC software and coded out several annoying nannies, like the e-diff and brake fade compensation.

What are your thoughts on DSC software/coding with firmed up suspension and bushings?

lol no way im buying it for 1k usd

im running a non m dsc with stock settings at the moment...
i played around with the custom settings a few years ago, they do delay throttle closure but i default coded back to stock since they were still too agressive either way... which led me down the road to discover turning off asr in the dme map to completely ignore all thorttle closure requests from the dsc.....which resulted in my old mechanic almost crashing my car going wot on a wet road thinking traction control will save him if the tires dont grip.....

i dont know if the m3 software is all that great since i cant flash the m3 software on my dsc...
however, i bought a used m3 dsc and the g force sensor (only needed if your car is pre 07/09) for retrofit last month...but i am kind of busy with life at the moment so i havent asked my mechanic to install the dsc and bleed it...
either way, if you are planning to flash the m3 software, you will need to fish an extra wire from the dsc plug to the dsc button if you want to run the m3 software (dsc button goes directly to the dsc module for m3, goes to cas/jbbf (cant remmeber which) if 1m software)

as for m3 gts nettodat data, it does not give you "m3 gts dsc settings" if you are running a non m software....
the value you set in there is the "index" to a table of values for the dsc to use instead of the actual value itself hence it doesnt work
these tables are different between non m, m3 and 1m software

with that being said, it still does delays throttle closures by a bit....

i have disabled all the nannies in the dsc... and also disabled all the brake assists, brake pedal boosting
however, dont do it if you have a bbk and the caliper piston sizing differs from stock too much (eg. brembo 17z/18z/19z calipers)
the pedal will go limp as if your master cylinder is too big

all i can say is, dsc hates stiff bushings on unsmooth surfaces/streets/highways). the stiffer my car gets, the more throttle closures i get.
its not necessarily a bad thing if you arent going full send race mode but it certainly is very annoying when you just want to send it into a corner or two

 

[jzx_andy]

lol no way im buying it for 1k usd

im running a non m dsc with stock settings at the moment...
i played around with the custom settings a few years ago, they do delay throttle closure but i default coded back to stock since they were still too agressive either way... which led me down the road to discover turning off asr in the dme map to completely ignore all thorttle closure requests from the dsc.....which resulted in my old mechanic almost crashing my car going wot on a wet road thinking traction control will save him if the tires dont grip.....

i dont know if the m3 software is all that great since i cant flash the m3 software on my dsc...
however, i bought a used m3 dsc and the g force sensor (only needed if your car is pre 07/09) for retrofit last month...but i am kind of busy with life at the moment so i havent asked my mechanic to install the dsc and bleed it...
either way, if you are planning to flash the m3 software, you will need to fish an extra wire from the dsc plug to the dsc button if you want to run the m3 software (dsc button goes directly to the dsc module for m3, goes to cas/jbbf (cant remmeber which) if 1m software)

as for m3 gts nettodat data, it does not give you "m3 gts dsc settings" if you are running a non m software....
the value you set in there is the "index" to a table of values for the dsc to use instead of the actual value itself hence it doesnt work
these tables are different between non m, m3 and 1m software

with that being said, it still does delays throttle closures by a bit....

i have disabled all the nannies in the dsc... and also disabled all the brake assists, brake pedal boosting
however, dont do it if you have a bbk and the caliper piston sizing differs from stock too much (eg. brembo 17z/18z/19z calipers)
the pedal will go limp as if your master cylinder is too big

all i can say is, dsc hates stiff bushings on unsmooth surfaces/streets/highways). the stiffer my car gets, the more throttle closures i get.
its not necessarily a bad thing if you arent going full send race mode but it certainly is very annoying when you just want to send it into a corner or two

Some food for thought there. Thanks man. Appreciate it.

 

[AzNdevil]

Some food for thought there. Thanks man. Appreciate it.

np its not that often to see people upgrading past the basic handling stuff on the e9x platform...

i have pretty much slapped all the mods available out there as far as handling mods go....
unless i add a rollcage but its illegal to run a cage here....
oh and wisefab knuckles, which allows for more fine tuning of suspension geometry like anti brake dive....
but i cant find anyone here that knows how to set it up properly...and its not something i want to burn money and experiment with...

so... the only thing i have left to try is how mdm mode will work on MY car...
i have tried it on a m3 with nitron r3 suspension... i think it might be what i am looking for but not sure how it will react with bearing/spherical joint suspension stuff...

 

[JohnDaviz]

How is you car doing?

Thanks to you and this thread i found this item:

Front Roll Centre & Bump Steer Correction Shims

Fits: Suits stock control arms & tie rods for the following RWD models;All E8X & E9X Non-M, E82 1M & E9X M3All F2X & F3X Non-M's & M-Sports 1/2/3/4 SeriesAll F8X M2, M3 & M4All G4X & G2X Non-M's & M-Sports 2/3/4 SeriesAll G8X M2, M3 & M4A9X Toyota Supra Benefits:-Corrects front roll

cmpautoengineering.com

Luckily shipping to germany is not expensive

 

[jzx_andy]

Hey man.

Yes - I have seen those shims recently. Good product idea IMO, seen a few similar parts on other platforms and have heard nothing but great things, which is awesome for those of us who enjoy a nice lowered e chassis! Thinking I should also grab a set since the front subframe is currently off the car.

With my car, not too much has happened since my last post in here. It's still a garage ornament at the moment haha.

JMC kit is about 80% fitted, and I've replaced the starter motor and valve cover and plugged the head ports while I was in there.

After some thought I recently decided to go with a Pulsar 3576r gen2 instead of the Pulsar 3582r gen2, as it'll be a tad more responsive on pump fuel and should be adequate for ~600whp. I really only planned to run the 3582 to about ~20 psi on e85, which isn't really all that much for that turbo on a 3L, so I think I can make similar or just a bit less power with a 3576 turned up to 25ish psi.

Ease of fitment for bonnet clearance is another big reason for the change in turbo, as most users of the JMC kit have had to trim their support when using a 3582, which I am not a fan of personally. Don't want to deal with a police officer seeing a slightly chopped bonnet and me then having to source another one just so it can pass inspection. Ride height, wheels, plumbing screamer pipes in etc are all much easier to sort out.

While the JMC kit is an amazing looking piece of kit and sounds unique, I think it may be a tad overengineered for the average n54 people who want a fast street car. Already dreading the thought of changing wastegate springs or accessing wastegate air hoses in the future, which is near impossible with the subframe and rack in situ.

I have also found a couple of people run into issues with the old JMC oil drain line melting the fire sleeve from partially contacting the manifold, the ptfe line somehow breaking and then pissing out oil, which could potentially starve a turbo/motor and is a likely fire hazard given enough time IMO. I will not be using the included drain but will use a flexible stainless steel AN10 line like this:

 

[AzNdevil]

How is you car doing?

Thanks to you and this thread i found this item:

Front Roll Centre & Bump Steer Correction Shims

Fits: Suits stock control arms & tie rods for the following RWD models;All E8X & E9X Non-M, E82 1M & E9X M3All F2X & F3X Non-M's & M-Sports 1/2/3/4 SeriesAll F8X M2, M3 & M4All G4X & G2X Non-M's & M-Sports 2/3/4 SeriesAll G8X M2, M3 & M4A9X Toyota Supra Benefits:-Corrects front roll

cmpautoengineering.com

Luckily shipping to germany is not expensive

where exactly does these spacers go? the pic only shows the spacer in between the ball joint and knuckle but therer are 4 spacers?
i am interested as i reverted my ride height back/close to stock just to avoid bump steer.
car pulls left and right badly on bumpy roads if i lower my ride height by an inch especially with toe out in front

Hey man.

Yes - I have seen those shims recently. Good product idea IMO, seen a few similar parts on other platforms and have heard nothing but great things, which is awesome for those of us who enjoy a nice lowered e chassis! Thinking I should also grab a set since the front subframe is currently off the car.

With my car, not too much has happened since my last post in here. It's still a garage ornament at the moment haha.

JMC kit is about 80% fitted, and I've replaced the starter motor and valve cover and plugged the head ports while I was in there.

After some thought I recently decided to go with a Pulsar 3576r gen2 instead of the Pulsar 3582r gen2, as it'll be a tad more responsive on pump fuel and should be adequate for ~600whp. I really only planned to run the 3582 to about ~20 psi on e85, which isn't really all that much for that turbo on a 3L, so I think I can make similar or just a bit less power with a 3576 turned up to 25ish psi.

work faster really want to see how this kit turns out.
i always wondered how good ST will work with pump fuel and whether going ST will reduce the heat generated allowing a 4-500whp n54 equpped car to be used as a dual duty (street/track) car in hot/humid climates

 

[JohnDaviz]

where exactly does these spacers go? the pic only shows the spacer in between the ball joint and knuckle but therer are 4 spacers?
i am interested as i reverted my ride height back/close to stock just to avoid bump steer.
car pulls left and right badly on bumpy roads if i lower my ride height by an inch especially with toe out in front

Yeah it is 4 spacers. As they state it is between the hub and both the control arm and tie rods but the pictures mainly present the control arm only. Haven´t installed anything yet.

But if you look closely, it think you can see a shim also between the tie rod and the hub.

 

[CalvinNismo]

From the paperwork that comes with them.

 

[JohnDaviz]

haha Mate. I just figured that my manual has a second side

 

[AzNdevil]

thanks guys appreciate it, do they have a recommended ride height in the manual or will i have to experiment and find out the hard way?

btw @jzx_andy sorry in case you feel ive hijacked your build thread

 

[CalvinNismo]

thanks guys appreciate it, do they have a recommended ride height in the manual or will i have to experiment and find out the hard way?

Their instructions say for a ride height 12mm (or more) lower than standard you would want to use these.

I’m sure Andy won’t mind, his avatar looks pretty damn laid back.

 

[jzx_andy]

thanks guys appreciate it, do they have a recommended ride height in the manual or will i have to experiment and find out the hard way?

btw @jzx_andy sorry in case you feel ive hijacked your build thread

All good dude I'm not gonna complain lmao. I'm no stranger to a good hijacking on here, especially one that lands a thread in the Octagon.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

All good dude I'm not gonna complain lmao. I'm no stranger to a good hijacking on here, especially one that lands a thread in the Octagon.

HAHA a threads only fun if it makes it to the octagon.