Pretty sure you cant reach 600whp on di only unless u push a lot of ethanol with a stage 3lpfp and a single or souble barrel shotgun
Help me reach 600whp on upgraded twins without E85.
- Thread starter twinturbos
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There have been at least a few cars that have cracked 600whp di only on just a bucketless stage 2 lpfp. Most need pi though.
Usually on e40ish
Race gas, or 93 + meth maybe? HPFP still might be running thin at that power level though, not sure.
I would pass on the pr coils, adds another iffy system. Twisted’s response sums up the general view
My tuner told me the same thing, E30-E40 blend should be able to do around 600 whp on upgraded twins DI only.
Good catch. And not to point too fine a point on it, but Bosch developed an algorithm to use the post-cat 02 sensor to compensate for the aging behavior of the pre-cat 02 sensors which are used to manage the AFR related tuning.
Filippo
I would plan on at least a stage 3 lpfp though. I run a bucketed stage 2 and it's not enough on E40 to hit 600whp. I won't bucketless.
A single Walbro 475 could do it but I don't think they work well without wiring changes.
at least one Rear O2 sensor is needed on N54 because it effects the trimming control without them.
E40/E50 depeds solely on the HPFP. And you need at a minimum Stage 2 LPFP. i have several DI only cars out there with 600whp on just a Stage 2 LPFP. however, i always recommend having more fuel capacity than too little or borderline.
In general, on e40/50 with hybrids, how much boost and timing does it take to make 600whp? I'm sure there's more than one way to get there -is any one in particular less stressful on the fuel system, e.g. 22psi/13deg vs 27psi/9deg.
I didn't think I was around 600 and I know my lpfp was already unable to keep up. If 600 is possible with just a stage 3 pump, I may order one tomorrow, lol.
You don't know how frustrating that entire experience was...so glad i switched to BMP Pi lol @Rcboosted2007
Great question. I am shooting for 600whp with E50 to E85 (running motiv flexfuel). My original intention was to run with a VTT single barrel, but I now have an S55 HPFP setup modified for N54 and waiting/hoping that the dual HPFP work going on bears fruit. HP650s are on the bench and go in with the spring 2019 install phase.
I don't like the boost approach to this game, and would prefer chasing efficiency - the HP650s was part of that, but honestly what I really want is the N53 head. Less boost, less temperature (the biggest evil). My idea of a perfect solution is dual HPFP, N53 head, good set of twins, motiv flex fuel. It's not a cheap way to get there for sure. I'd prefer to chase power in a longevity context.
Filippo
The N53 head would absolutely be a great way to get there, but as you said - not the cheapest. I think on a stock N54, as in all engines, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I think I'd prefer higher boost with less timing - you're less dependent upon octane as a whole that way. 20psi and high timing can do it, but one bad tank of gas and 'thar she blows'.
I just wish I had a general idea of what it took. One guy on FB with an XI said he made 509 whp on a Mustang dyno on 93, 23psi and 8* timing, and ran 127 in the 1/4. That's great, but I don't think my 93 is good enough out here to run 8* without some timing pulls. I am tempted to just run 93 and some torco or racegas concentrate and see if the timing corrections clear up. I think I'm only running 8* on E40 right now. :-(
its always a balance. But in reference to the fuel system specifically, of course less boost (really airflow/CFM) is less stressful on the fuel system. Really, boost means nothing in reference to how much your fuel system can support. its how much air volume. Boost is simply a restriction, 25psi on stock N54 twins output half the air volume as say GTX35R twins at the same pressure ratio (not fully accurate numbers but you get the point).
And that falls into your question on how much boost and timing does it take to make 600whp on hybrids. Considering they all flow different air volumes, the answer would depend on the setup used.
Was it your LPFP, or was it your HPFP that was starting to suffer when we were tuning? Pardon my memory.
this isn't entirely true. Boost pressure as well as timing need octane equally. Both increase cylinder pressures and create heat to an extent, both of which require octane to keep pre-ignition and detonation away.
