Like everyone is saying first you pick the power level, then you pick the best turbo(s) to get there.
Like everyone is saying first you pick the power level, then you pick the best turbo(s) to get there.
You're going to end up wanting more power than upgraded twins will reliably support. I've been down that path lol
I've had everything - stock turbos, upgraded twins, and ST 6266. The lag is still there with upgraded twins so IMO the tradeoff was a tiny bit more lag (really not that noticeable) for a LOT more top end. Well worth it
That's what I figured.... rather than going with twins and being limited might as well do it once(do it right). What LPFP do you run ?
Power level will have to be progressive... planning to run around 500-550 this year... 600-650 next year... and who knows how much in 5 years.
You sound delusional lmaoGC's are making what, 900-1000? And you're saying the ethanol adds 400whp? You're delusional.
Yeah how much money did they spent??? The pistons and rods cost more then the fucking turbo setup.Ya, it's only 830. Slower then every ST car ever.
1. You won't stop at 600. Trust me.. you won't. Go singlenand future proof yourself. Don't want to do this shit again.
2. "Stage 3" lpfp can be made by ordering 2 450s walbros (97 dollars each online) and a bucketless "holder" to hold the fuel pumps together. BMP makes one.. so do other companies that are for other platforms that work. For less. Follow the DIY install and wire it yourself.. so easy.. you pay out the ass for WIRE and eye lid connectors.. lol. I suggest just use their wiring harness if you lack any sort of mechanical ability. It's literally a couple wires in sheething.. it's pretty easy. Hobbs switches are stupid cheap online and as long as it's a 15psi trigger you are all set.. Oh and 3 port Mac solenoids are 13 dollars on Amazon. Yes the same ones everyone sells.
3. You can go single for absurdly cheap and make over 700whp for under 4k. I've done it. Look at pictures of most of the products (BMS n20 harness) for example.. all you have to do is literally depin the connector and switch wire 1s place with wire 3. ...takes less then 2 minutes. Oh and a n20 sensor (2013 328i 2.0 4cylinder maf is like 68 dollars at advanced auto) I'd say 60% of the n54 products can be made home by knowing what you are looking, or can be purchased for far cheaper by just doing some research on their source. (fuel-it upgrade feed/return lines for example cost a whole 26 dollars to make. Fittings and hose are cheap.. lol)
Save money on the simple shit. Common sense goes a long way. Just don't waste time on some twins that will fail. They all fail. ALL.
And.. on3 hot parts kit with everything else pieced together is cheaper then doc race and performs just fine and would be well within your goals. The quality is great. No matter what the haters say. And takes 3 days to your door step.
I even used their 67mm turbo for 13kmiles. No issues. Just change your o2 sensors while installing the kit because they are hard to do in the car.
I have zero preference on tunes because we'll.. I had Justin (v8bait) from twisted tuning do my custom tune and he is phenomenal, never bothered with jb4 after the horror stories and complications it caused others. I do have a jb4 I'm going to mess with and see how the 93 with a BEF does.
I think what n54 vendors do is great for most people and offer knowledge and fantastic customer support. But because people are lazy and are not very smart, they can gouge alittle, which is fine. Capitalism baby. I'm also not saying anyone's product is bad, or priced incorrectly. (The stupid tax is real) But alot almost all, can be done by yourself for far far less, if you use your head
The sheep will be mad soon. And come from all corners of the earth to argue this. I'm not gonna reply. So don't bother ya heathens.
Some people have their mind set on the sound of a big turbo spooling and a dump tube. It definitely is a different driving experience as well beyond the noises... If you want that big turbo experience regardless of the power level then there isn't much that will convince you to stay with the twins. If you want the most performance right at this moment, then twins are likely the way to go, assuming they operate correctly.
Yes. Or you can go twins, and make the same power, with torque 1,000rpm sooner, and 100 wtq higher.
And when you're ready for the 600-700 mark, the same twins can still do it, and still put the ST to shame in response.
Ya, it's only 830. Slower then every ST car ever.
Ok, I stand corrected, GC's maxxed out was 830whp. But their Stage 3's have crossed 900. Still twins. Which is odd since it's impossible to get over 570 with twins.
So...
Stock internals N54 with 98k miles on it.
Obviously catless downpipe, secondary cats replaced with vibrant resonators.
Stage 2 LPFP - will have to look into this, suggestions welcome
JB4 + backend flash I'm guessing - are there base maps available for download for the docrace 6266 ?
charge pipe with tial bov
vrsf 7" fmic
94 octane gas...
Should be able to push 550whp ? -> on the docrace with a gen2 6266
Power level will have to be progressive... planning to run around 500-550 this year... 600-650 next year... and who knows how much in 5 years.
Yes. Or you can go twins, and make the same power, with torque 1,000rpm sooner, and 100 wtq higher.
And when you're ready for the 600-700 mark, the same twins can still do it, and still put the ST to shame in response.
So does everyone here run over 700whp on their single turbo setups? I wanted to stick around 600-650whp for now to keep the engine going for a while.
Obviously not, but why would you go for the single?
It's more reliable, less moving parts, but in order for that to be a consideration you have to show the twins aren't reliable. The newer GC's seem to be doing well in that arena, MMP either has, or will soon have, Garrett turbos, and haven't the China offerings held up so far too? And if your goal is "only" 570, there's even more offerings that are reliable (Pure, RB, etc).
Easier maintenance, but again in order for that to be a consideration it needs to need maintenance. And if it's reliable then this is irrelevant.
In contrast the twins will outperform the single in every way, will be cheaper to buy, and easier to tune.
The thing is, ignorant people believe the single will make more power. And that just isn't true.
Most of the country does not have e85 readily available, hence why a single turbo makes the most sense most of the time. It is also more reliable unless you have not been following the forums. A bad set of twins pops up once a month it seems. Most are hidden by the vendors, I assume, who publicly admit they will not help you if you go to the forums 1st before contacting them. So unless you don't want your warranty and don't make it public.
There sure is a lot of FUD here. Vendors would like the opportunity to make things right/figure things out before people go on the forums and go "look at this junk." Most of the twin failures have been the uber-chinesium ones, or those pushed extremely hard. I don't expect mine to survive forever at 30psi, it's not in the nature of a TD04 turbo. There has to be a bit of responsibility on the part of the owner. Also, one of the "selling points" with singles is "it's so easy to remove the turbo." Uh, if it's so reliable, why is that even a concern. Perhaps singles go bad as well, but since they aren't N54 specific no one is bitching to vendors here? Blew up your precision? Yeah, they don't care if you post it here, they'll keep selling them.
I think Torgus is referring to "on pump gas". It's widely known that pump gas will limit maximum power on hybrids simply because they are smaller and heat the air quicker compared to a (big) single.
Since you are stuck with 94 octane, and you're considering a single turbo already - there is no reason you should not get a larger intercooler. I would consider the VRSF 7.5 Race (or equivalent) to be table stakes at this power level/turbo configuration.
Also, I would keep the secondary cats unless you just want to remove them for no reason. I believe Payam said he ran the full stock catback to 700+ WHP with no loss of power. He didn't remove the secondarys until over 750.
I get the whole, "plan for the future" thing, but it can make for a boring or un-fun vehicle until you reach your final destination, especially in a big turbo car. I would at most focus on the 600whp goal as it is very easily achieved relative to the 500 whp goal.
Be mindful - to reach your 650+ goal, you will either need supplemental fueling like a shotgun or PI, or be spraying a lot of meth. I think you'll also be limited using just 94 octane and meth. E85 is much better overall vs meth. @veer90 made 780 WHP on E85 on a 6266. I don't see that happening on 94/meth on the best day. I'd wager you'd be lucky to hit 700whp.
Well, that's not entirely true. I was quite surprised when I compared @veer90's max effort hybrid to his max effort 6266 and the single made more torque pretty much everywhere. Granted, he was thumping 29 psi thru it, which probably isn't common, and definitely won't happen on 94 octane, lol.
Definitely not - I'd bet most single turbo setups are in the 550 - 650 just as hybrids.
I'm ABSOLUTELY A proponent of twins over a single. I think a single changes the driving dynamics more than I want, and you said you like driving the twisties (I think I read that) if so, a big single on pump gas will probably be disappointing.
There sure is a lot of FUD here. Vendors would like the opportunity to make things right/figure things out before people go on the forums and go "look at this junk." Most of the twin failures have been the uber-chinesium ones, or those pushed extremely hard. I don't expect mine to survive forever at 30psi, it's not in the nature of a TD04 turbo. There has to be a bit of responsibility on the part of the owner. Also, one of the "selling points" with singles is "it's so easy to remove the turbo." Uh, if it's so reliable, why is that even a concern. Perhaps singles go bad as well, but since they aren't N54 specific no one is bitching to vendors here? Blew up your precision? Yeah, they don't care if you post it here, they'll keep selling them.
So does everyone here run over 700whp on their single turbo setups? I wanted to stick around 600-650whp for now to keep the engine going for a while.