Engine malfunction, power reduced, yet....no codes

[fmorelli]

So here's my report, I'll try to keep it detailed as possible. So went to the BMW dealership they checked it out, ran the codes and found the dreaded 30FF, but they found the leak but the leak was something I missed and I opened that damn hood too many times just to miss it.

I have the Arm Motorsports charge pipe and the meth ports was wide open, the holding bolts must of blew out. So I decided to go to a ace hardware and get some bolts to plug the ports and teflon wrapped it.....*sigh* which didnt solve the problem so I assume because of the mods(upgraded inlet pipes and the pipe leading to the charge pipe.)

So I just MHDed the car, went to stage 1+ and the car is just smooth and strong...its just that the 30FF appeared again so I was wonder what ideals where to check, but here's a weird anomaly.....I can use the cars power, all of it with THE AC ON! It's weird! No limp mode at all!‍ anywho, you guys are the pros! I'll be awaiting in earnest!

Thanks again!

. .

 

[Jin]

Thanks fmorelli!

 

[NoQuarter]

A thought... If the AC is on, does that raise the RPMs?
If the RPMS are higher, then perhaps vacuum is stronger?

If this is plausible, then check the vacuum hoses, vacuum canisters, vacuum solenoids,

but at cruising speed in third gear RPMs are already high so... ??

 

[Jin]

A thought... If the AC is on, does that raise the RPMs?
If the RPMS are higher, then perhaps vacuum is stronger?

If this is plausible, then check the vacuum hoses, vacuum canisters, vacuum solenoids,

but at cruising speed in third gear RPMs are already high so... ??

That's a good thought, I figured this is gonna be the new wall, the vacuum lines and solenoid, but what's the vacuum canister?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[NoQuarter]

That's a good thought, I figured this is gonna be the new wall, the vacuum lines and solenoid, but what's the vacuum canister?

Thanks for the reply!

The vacuum canisters hold a reservoir of vacuum going to the actuators that control your waste-gates on the turbos. Hoses could be old/cracked, the canisters could be cracked or have a broken nipple.

but... not sure how the AC being on has anything to with this. Maybe forget the AC part unless you verify it repeatedly and are SURE the AC changes the behavior.

 

[Jin]

So yea I checked canister lines am they look in great shape, an as you said the ac didn't contribute in any way, I tried to test it on the interstate just now, but do have a wonder. I have the orginal vaccum line that tees off the manifold going into another tee to the bov....can this contributed to a problem?

If so i plan on getting the VS MAP sensor to BOV Line Adapter to see if it fixes it. Also I'll add the data log images at the top of 3 gear via instructions for data logging for the MHD
It should be from top to bottom, seeing if you guys can translate anything from it, if not then my apologies.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Rcboosted2007]

That white/beige fitting looks like a check valve not a tee. Is there any obstructions in there? Also the nipple off the intake manifold is prone to breaking. Are you only getting the 30ff or both codes?

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Opps. I Forgot to ask if you have tested the waste gates.

 

[Lurcher]

I'm baffled.

Same shit here with the crap in 3/4th, shut it off and everything back to normal. Go by 6 plugs and coils and then you know for sure. Either it fixes the problem or it's preventative maintenance that you know is done.... ~$200 and ~2 hrs....

You can also do the datalogging with MHD, and that will show the issues too. Load them up and post.....

 

[Jin]

I have no clue why I'm not getting any reports on replys, glad I looked!

That white/beige fitting looks like a check valve not a tee. Is there any obstructions in there? Also the nipple off the intake manifold is prone to breaking. Are you only getting the 30ff or both codes?

The white tee was supposed to a "one size fits all" kinda deal. I still get the "woosh" sound from the bov, I just figure the change in diameter would make something go weird? BUT * I did get a new code *posted below*

Same shit here with the crap in 3/4th, shut it off and everything back to normal. Go by 6 plugs and coils and then you know for sure. Either it fixes the problem or it's preventative maintenance that you know is done.... ~$200 and ~2 hrs....

You can also do the datalogging with MHD, and that will show the issues too. Load them up and post.....

I think I'm gonna do that along with the Vader solutions to eliminate a possible leaky line.

Opps. I Forgot to ask if you have tested the waste gates.

An I have no clue how to do that, thanks for the ideal. Matter of fact thank you all for your help for getting me through this! Means a lot!

An as for the data logging, I need to use the data zap I believe it's called to upload it, I'm feeling pretty positive that yall can translate it better then I

 

[Jin]

I also went on and bought both solenoids so we can completely rule that out of the equation, so that should be here between the 10th and 13th of this month. So *fingers cross* on that.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Is that a new or used BOV. Does it gave the correct spring.

 

[JuniorB]

Have you pulled the plugs since you done the blast, the reason I ask is, I bought a motor that had low miles, the no1 cylinder had what looked like someone tried and a valve was open. When I pulled the plugs, the powder was caked on the plug. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was nut dust still in the cylinders not able to burn off completely. If this happened right after, then start were you left off and work backwards.

 

[Jin]

Is that a new or used BOV. Does it gave the correct spring.

Once again....I'm not getting any notice about these replys, kinda annoying and I don't want to keep you guys waiting on a answer. But to answer your question, no it straight from Arm motorsports and I'm using what came with the BOV, I haven't even opened it..

Have you pulled the plugs since you done the blast, the reason I ask is, I bought a motor that had low miles, the no1 cylinder had what looked like someone tried and a valve was open. When I pulled the plugs, the powder was caked on the plug. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was nut dust still in the cylinders not able to burn off completely. If this happened right after, then start were you left off and work backwards.

When I change out the plugs going to the NGK Rs I'll inspected them and post pictures to you guys more experienced opinions!

Thanks again guys!

 

[Jin]

*****New report*****

Replaced the boost solenoids, car is WAAAAAAY more responsive, feels "fresh"......then 30ff reveals itself again.....so I'm taking it to the performance shop an having them pressure test it and check for the leak, pretty cheap. Also I'm still gonna do like you guys said and replace the spark plugs!

So I'll report if anything else new arises.

 

[Jin]

So.....yes. went back to the shop and asked to basically look over the car, check the vacuum line, I'll pay whatever. So they replace all the vac lines, tighten/ replaced the clamps with there's, which then thrown another code for the MAP sensor, which they said to replace, an the boost solenoid deactivation because being that the map isn't working the car is basically flipping out.

Now here's the weird. 4 days (30FF is still in the building) later the I'm reading my IAT sensor via MHD an the temp is reading, -strange- so I decided to clear the codes and see what pops up when I cut the car off an 30 FF it again. 2 codes, the 30 FF and....well you can see the attached screenshot. The other codes never came back and there still gone till this day.

SO, ultimately I thing the wastgate aren't shutting, or holding boost about 4k rpm, so I'm gonna see if I can buy some new turbos from pure since they gotta a great backing. Anyway thank you guys for the adventure, hope this solves it...

 

[NoQuarter]

Good follow-up!

 

[SJ_1989]

@Jin I have OEM turbos I'll let go for cheap if you want them. 66k miles with some wastegate rattle. Ran MHD stage 2+ for two years with no problems.

 

[Jin]

@Jin I have OEM turbos I'll let go for cheap if you want them. 66k miles with some wastegate rattle. Ran MHD stage 2+ for two years with no problems.

Thanks, but I'm gonna try one option to see if I can save these turbos by way of either the manual wastegate adjustment, or the MHD way. If that doesn't work then the wife wanted me to go the single (turbo) route, but I like the low end grunt of the twins so there's that lol

But if anything major pops up or any new discoveries I'll keep you guys posted!