Bought a Single Turbo Kit - What about PCV? Ignition? Anything else?

[veer90]

Just pulled the trigger on a DOC Racing 6266 kit that I'm going to install with my new (used 90k miles) motor.

Before I'm installing anything, I'm going to replace the valve cover and gasket. What should I do for a PCV system with goals of ~700whp? I'm currently running a BMS OCC in standard format, is that good enough? How do I connect the vent line with a single turbo?

What ignition setup works best? I didn't have good luck with the Precision Raceworks kit and a number of different spark plugs when I was running high boost on my MMP S3s. Debating OEM coils or BimmerLife kit, which plugs?

Is there anything else I should do to prepare for this? I think I need a MAC solenoid. Anything special for vacuum line? How long will my O2 sensors last? I have to be forgetting something...

Things I already have:

• JB4 with MHD backend flash
• Port injection with JB4 controller
• Index 12 injectors
• Stage 3 LPFP
• 7.5" race intercooler
• Proper clutch/flywheel
• Lots of heat-related tape and wrap

BMS OCC is only working under boost, you can just vent it if you don't mind the smell. Under low load you should have a line post-throttle body to pull vacuum on the valve cover / crankcase with a check valve to prevent boost leaks. Or run Robs kit and make adjustments if needed.

I'm running the BL kit with NGK 95770s at 0.024 gap. No issues other than a few of the connectors cracking but I just improvised and zip tied them shits together. Works 100%

You will need a MAC solenoid and either a JB4 or Boostbox.

For vacuum lines, go turbosmart silicone or steel braided.

Precat O2 longevity with single turbo tend to be hit or miss depending on the kit and how hard it's run. If you want, you can upgrade to ADVs. I would start with a new set of OEM.

Other than that you should have most everything. If you were already running MMPs the supporting mods should already be there.

 

[veer90]

Interesting resolve here but something tells me you may have not had the OEM vent hose (aka flapper assembly) intact however. If you did, and installed a check valve (which is not a PCV Valve), you'd end up with a large amount of vacuum applied to the crankcase (ie. seals howling amount) along with essentially a large intake manifold leak. Many times a person posts a resolve, only to find weeks/months later, that the resolve needs revisited as it was in some way short lived and/or under thought. In the meantime another 10 to 20 have followed their lead, it feels like we keep chasing tails, and no one grows any less confused due to it all lol. Anyway we recently went through this discussion with another here:
http://www.bummerboost.com/showthre...m-side-PCV-using-AD-Fitting-and-BMS-Catch-can

Quick recap: OP thought a check valve was the best answer. Realized later it was not due to eventual codes and later went back to PCV.

Rob

Nope flapper valve was installed and working.

Seal howling amount? Which seals lol

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Nope flapper valve was installed and working.

Seal howling amount? Which seals lol

If you applied full plenum vacuum to the crankcase (which you would from only a 1-way check valve), with the flapper intact and closing as it should under low load, you should hear some howling. The vast majority seem to anyway from years of these conversations. It is literally from WAYYYYYYYYYYYY TOO much vacuum on the crankcase, pulling in from any seal on the engine (ie. front hub, rear main, valve cover, any weak seal link, etc). The thread posted above is a good link for reference, however he did not get the howling either... only mixture codes later on from the large essential vacuum leak. You also could have a breather or sorts added aftermarket, or some other ventilation afterthought, that are putting the PCV function out of alignment. The PCV is a closed system so it needs to operate as closed in order to function properly. If you believe all is in check and seems well we would still suggest giving it about 3-6 months of no troubles before replication, as we are relatively certain something else is awry if you need full plenum vacuum applied to your crankcase in order for things to behave correctly. In short and under low load conditions you only should need a very small amount of vacuum applied to the crankcase, much like what a PCV valve is capable of performing.

Rob

 

[veer90]

If you applied full plenum vacuum to the crankcase (which you would from only a 1-way check valve), with the flapper intact and closing as it should under low load, you should hear some howling. The vast majority seem to anyway from years of these conversations. It is literally from WAYYYYYYYYYYYY TOO much vacuum on the crankcase, pulling in from any seal on the engine (ie. front hub, rear main, valve cover, any weak seal link, etc). The thread posted above is a good link for reference, however he did not get the howling either... only mixture codes later on from the large essential vacuum leak. You also could have a breather or sorts added aftermarket, or some other ventilation afterthought, that are putting the PCV function out of alignment. The PCV is a closed system so it needs to operate as closed in order to function properly. If you believe all is in check and seems well we would still suggest giving it about 3-6 months of no troubles before replication, as we are relatively certain something else is awry if you need full plenum vacuum applied to your crankcase in order for things to behave correctly. In short and under low load conditions you only should need a very small amount of vacuum applied to the crankcase, much like what a PCV valve is capable of performing.

Rob

No howling, but I'll definitely keep a lookout for mixture codes. I have a Motiv closed deck motor with all the bells and whistles so maybe something to do with how the motor was put together. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯