ARM Relocated Inlets Kit Initial Observations: Test Drive Notes

[matreyia]

I got the ARM Relocated Inlets installed this weekend and did a test drive. I did not go aggressive... however, I did notice SUBSTANTIAL rise in coolant and oil temps. Here is the history of my temps from stock to now.

1. stock - 240to 250 F
2. dinan oil cooler - 230-240 even aggressive
3. dinan oil cooler and csf upgraded bigger radiator - same as dinan
4. dinan oil cooler, csf radiator, + thermostat delete adapter replace with 175ºF thermostat yielded - 198ºF operating temperatures average
5. ARM Motorsports Relocated Inlets with turbo exhaust manifold heat shield - separates the upper and lower engine and isolates the turbo exhaust manifold from the intake cones area in at attemp contain AIT. - Oil now, operates at 210 - 220ºF

I attribute the 30º increase to the fact that there is nowhere for the hot air to go except for very small openings, unlike the previous state where the heat from the manifold could just bleed into the engine bay and dissipate faster. At this point, the importance of the upgraded cooling system will be essential.

I observe the coolant and oil temperatures rocketing upwards in less than a minute - each time I press the pedal the temperature immediately goes up and then when I let go of the pedal the temperatures almost immediately go back down VERY fast. At idle, the temperatures both coolant and oil heat up to 195ºf in less than 6 minutes whereas before the install, the idle temps would not reach 160º from cold start for over 15 minutes.

From these observations, I can only deduce that the very fast temperature changes are due to the trapped heat from the exhaust manifolds and that their main source of heat control now is the coolant and water pump. Once the water pump kicks in.... temps drop precipitously. Also, there is no obstruction in front of the engine working against the fan when it kicks on.

I believe I will try to install the 335is high power fan too just to have more headroom when in stop and go traffic. I predict that temps are going to go back to 250º in summer Houston traffic.

If anyone has any experience similar to this, I would be interested to know. Keep in mind that this ARM relocated kit specifically has custom shroud that pretty much covers the top and side of the manifolds completely and the only air going to the manifolds is now only from the bottom of the manifold...which you can imagine isn't moving very much due to the location.

I will do a full review after testing wot. The relocation of the expansion tank was not fully successful as it gets pushed down when the hood is closed...so I ordered a 335d tank which hopefully will fix the fitment issue.

 

[matreyia]

Ok, after driving in hard traffic to work this morning, I observed that though oil and coolant temps were higher than before the install, the IAT was literally the same as before, so it appears that the thermal shroud over the manifold plus the Turner passenger side air intake duct both are doing their jobs to keep the intake air cool. Again, there is literally no increase in air intake temperatures. When I opened the hood, the top engine area felt only warm, NOT blazing hot like before the shroud was installed. Previously the hot air would rush out and you could feel in on your face in addition to your hands... now you don't feel it on your face as much...just BARELY.

When the car stops in traffic, after a couple of minutes, the coolant temps rise and the fan kicks on and then the temps immediately plummet to around 205ºF. I saw it rise to 230ºF, then fan kicks on, and in less than one minute it was down to 205ºf....which is unbelievable unless you watch it yourself.

Cruising at 80mph with bursts of insanity on the fwy shows no significant difference in IAT or coolant/oil temps. Only when driving non freeway speeds or stuck in traffic do the temps rise. The heat soak into the engine block from the stagnate air around the covered manifold is almost instant when the car stops.

 

[derekgates]

Interesting, these look like a clone of the prototype RB Turbo inlet setup that Rob was designing for his largest turbos. I can't remember the name of the kit or the link but this looks like a good setup.

Unfortunately your temp increases are worrying. I have a 335is with the upgraded fan but temps are just manageable at times...

[EDIT] Sounds like it is fine... How are the noises?

 

[matreyia]

Interesting, these look like a clone of the prototype RB Turbo inlet setup that Rob was designing for his largest turbos. I can't remember the name of the kit or the link but this looks like a good setup.
View attachment 35633

Unfortunately your temp increases are worrying. I have a 335is with the upgraded fan but temps are just manageable at times...

[EDIT] Sounds like it is fine... How are the noises?

I was worried too, but in reality the increased temps are still 20ºF below stock levels. So not too worried for now. I will see what happens when I really drive the snot out of it in hot summer weather...then we will look at hood vents (possibly with thermostat activated fan).

Before modding my car, temps were routinely 250ºF and driving hard got to 270ºF. It has never touched 250º since upgrading oil cooler and radiator and certainly not with the stock thermostat delete. Now though, temps are on average around 225 to 230ºf in traffic, and 205º in motion...so again, still lower than with the dinan oil cooler on stock turbos.

This is now on Pure Stage 2 High Flows with 2 inch inlets. These turbos are INSANE. They bite you if you don't respect them. Like drawing black spaghetti on the road...

Notice I did not install the top cover as it would block the cool air from the Turner intake duct.
Also, despite the photo of the expansion tank in place, it actually does not fit, the hood presses it down when closed. So I ordered the 335d expansion tank to see if fitment would be better. Some say that the ER charge pipe will not allow the 335d tank to fit correctly, but I will have to see for myself.

 

[matreyia]

Interesting, these look like a clone of the prototype RB Turbo inlet setup that Rob was designing for his largest turbos. I can't remember the name of the kit or the link but this looks like a good setup.
View attachment 35633

Unfortunately your temp increases are worrying. I have a 335is with the upgraded fan but temps are just manageable at times...

[EDIT] Sounds like it is fine... How are the noises?

Noises are alarmingly loud induction poofs since I am not used to my car making such a ruckus when pressing pedal down. It's downright scary sounding.

 

[derekgates]

Noises are alarmingly loud induction poofs since I am not used to my car making such a ruckus when pressing pedal down. It's downright scary sounding.

hahaha. You got some tornadoes in there!


I am using the stock air box with Z4 lid to keep noises down and give ram air.


I like that the ARM kit seems to come with a air routing/delfection piece like the diesels. That's a nice setup!

EDIT:

Notice I did not install the top cover as it would block the cool air from the Turner intake duct.
Also, despite the photo of the expansion tank in place, it actually does not fit, the hood presses it down when closed. So I ordered the 335d expansion tank to see if fitment would be better. Some say that the ER charge pipe will not allow the 335d tank to fit correctly, but I will have to see for myself.

View attachment 35634

Ohhhh, the intake duct is from Turner! Gotcha. Sucks about the expansion tank.. hmm.

 

[matreyia]

hahaha. You got some tornadoes in there!


I am using the stock air box with Z4 lid to keep noises down and give ram air.


I like that the ARM kit seems to come with a air routing/delfection piece like the diesels. That's a nice setup!

EDIT:



Ohhhh, the intake duct is from Turner! Gotcha. Sucks about the expansion tank.. hmm.

Yeah that turner duct was important to me. It was damn expensive for a piece of metal. Like 150 bucks...holy...

 

[derekgates]

Oh, I found the RBTurbo kit. It is the EVO Hot Side Inlet kit:

RB EVO Style Hot Side Relocated Inlets- CLOSE OUT Pricing>>> - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion

RB EVO Style Hot Side Relocated Inlets- CLOSE OUT Pricing>>> Market Place - For Sale / Trade / Wanted

www.n54tech.com

I have wanted this kit for a long time but is lower on my list of TODOs...

UPDATE: Last set has been SOLD! No more, out of stock, but do have 2 of the extra hoses without ends (hoses ONLY!) still on hand for ultra cheap if anyone is interested in those send an email to discuss.

So... I guess ARM is the way to go for that!

 

[matreyia]

Oh, I found the RBTurbo kit. It is the EVO Hot Side Inlet kit:

RB EVO Style Hot Side Relocated Inlets- CLOSE OUT Pricing>>> - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion

RB EVO Style Hot Side Relocated Inlets- CLOSE OUT Pricing>>> Market Place - For Sale / Trade / Wanted

www.n54tech.com

View attachment 35638


I have wanted this kit for a long time but is lower on my list of TODOs...



So... I guess ARM is the way to go for that!

Yeah the ARM Kit is $369 or something like that. But I tell you, if you get the Turner air duct... you will see that it is counter productive to install the intake cone plate because it will block direct air flow from the front air dam to the cones. So I kept them off...but they look dope as shit when installed. And that shroud in the photo you posted is the same thing as the ARM supplied shroud...be prepared to see higher oil and coolant temps in idle and slow traffic.

 

[derekgates]

Yeah the ARM Kit is $369 or something like that. But I tell you, if you get the Turner air duct... you will see that it is counter productive to install the intake cone plate because it will block direct air flow from the front air dam to the cones. So I kept them off...but they look dope as shit when installed.

True. You can't buy the RB Turbo kit, those were the last of them. And yeah, looks great!

And that shroud in the photo you posted is the same thing as the ARM supplied shroud...be prepared to see higher oil and coolant temps in idle and slow traffic.

What shroud? The one that goes over headers/around outlets or the shroud that goes over the cones?

 

[matreyia]

The aluminum shroud that goes over the manifolds connected to the turbos. I actually stuck thermal tape on the top side of that shroud, then therma tape around the hoses to the intake cones, and thermal tape behind the bracket that holds the two cones together. So heat soak into those areas should be minimal.

 

[derekgates]

The aluminum shroud that goes over the manifolds connected to the turbos. I actually stuck thermal tape on the top side of that shroud, then therma tape around the hoses to the intake cones, and thermal tape behind the bracket that holds the two cones together. So heat soak into those areas should be minimal.

Ah, I have one of those 'shields' from RB Turbo. I put REI gold reflective tape on the underside. I picked it up to try to reduce heat transfer into the outlets. Not sure if it is a good idea after reading this thread...

I like idea of thermal tape around hoses!

 

[matreyia]

Ah, I have one of those 'shields' from RB Turbo. I put REI gold reflective tape on the underside. I picked it up to try to reduce heat transfer into the outlets. Not sure if it is a good idea after reading this thread...

I like idea of thermal tape around hoses!

Hmmm... well, I mean I suppose if you had stock location inlets - the manifold shroud does reduce engine interior temperatures, so long as you supplement with proper air duct intake from the front grill. I also have the ECS tuning front grill air scoops. Regardless of what the armchair engineers say on the forums, you will want those front grill scoops if you have dual cones. The focused direction of the air flow into the air ducts is incredibly helpful.

But be advised...if you have stock turbos, and your temps are sotck 250ºF average now... DO NOT install that shroud. Only consider installing if you have all upgraded cooling components like my car. I threw the kitchen sink at this thing... only thing left is upgrading the damn fan. Which I don't even need.

Also... do yourself a favor and just pay a shop to install. It is waaaay harder and more labor than installing stock location inlet upgrade. Like ALOT more. I am VERY good with my car and have all imaginable tools, but due to the insanity of modifications, I started at 8pm friday and did not realize it was 9 am saturday except for the fact that my GF came into the garage and told me. And at that point I STILL wasn't done. All the relocation, rewiring, soldering, hose modifications, rerouting this and that... it was a freakin' nightmare.

 

[derekgates]

Hmmm... well, I mean I suppose if you had stock location inlets - the manifold shroud does reduce engine interior temperatures, so long as you supplement with proper air duct intake from the front grill. I also have the ECS tuning front grill air scoops. Regardless of what the armchair engineers say on the forums, you will want those front grill scoops if you have dual cones. The focused direction of the air flow into the air ducts is incredibly helpful.

But be advised...if you have stock turbos, and your temps are sotck 250ºF average now... DO NOT install that shroud. Only consider installing if you have all upgraded cooling components like my car. I threw the kitchen sink at this thing... only thing left is upgrading the damn fan. Which I don't even need.

Also... do yourself a favor and just pay a shop to install. It is waaaay harder and more labor than installing stock location inlet upgrade. Like ALOT more. I am VERY good with my car and have all imaginable tools, but due to the insanity of modifications, I started at 8pm friday and did not realize it was 9 am saturday except for the fact that my GF came into the garage and told me. And at that point I STILL wasn't done. All the relocation, rewiring, soldering, hose modifications, rerouting this and that... it was a freakin' nightmare.

Hmm, interesting. I am on stock inlet location. I haven't installed the 'shield' yet as I am back on stock outlets. One day I will change over to the aluminum outlets but have a revision of VRSF that has difficult installation.

The inlet install was beyond insanity. I went through absolute hell doing it as well. If I ever do it again I am using an engine brace and lifting the engine up away from firewall. That rear inlet was insane to replace, but removal was quite easy with a PVC cutter (razor attached to a ratcheting 'clamp'). Sorry to hear about your insane install as well! UGH! Worth it?

 

[matreyia]

Hmm, interesting. I am on stock inlet location. I haven't installed the 'shield' yet as I am back on stock outlets. One day I will change over to the aluminum outlets but have a revision of VRSF that has difficult installation.

The inlet install was beyond insanity. I went through absolute hell doing it as well. If I ever do it again I am using an engine brace and lifting the engine up away from firewall. That rear inlet was insane to replace, but removal was quite easy with a PVC cutter (razor attached to a ratcheting 'clamp'). Sorry to hear about your insane install as well! UGH! Worth it?

Dude... first of all, I threw away all my VRSF crap. So far 100% fitment issues track record. I am never buying their stuff again.

Now, if you think the stock inlet install was insane... especially the rear inlet - you have no idea what you are about to face with that curved rear inlet for the relocation kit. There is absolutely zero grip and you have to go opposite directions simultaneously in order to get that snout over the turbo tube. Now...if you don't have an extended ribbed turbo snout and you only have the stock super thin snout with barely anything to clamp onto... you are about to experience legendary anger and frustration. Even with the long ass 2 inch Pure S2 snout...it was almost impossible to get on the turbo completely. Picture this:

You have to push the inlet open towards the front of the car in order to push it onto the turbo snout...seems simple?
Oh no... while you are doing that, you have to simultaneously push the top part of the inlet hose towards the rear of the car in order to push the entire hose down into the altitude of the turbo snout...because the whole thing is coming from higher altitude than the turbo snout. This IMO should be done only if the motor is outside of the car. Holy Hell... It is an insane tight fit, even worse than the stock location inlet hose install.

The GIANT problem is... there is no space to grip anything in order to pull or push effectively.

 

[derekgates]

Dude... first of all, I threw away all my VRSF crap. So far 100% fitment issues track record. I am never buying their stuff again.

Yeah, I am pretty done with VRSF stuff... Their chargepipe works good enough but more complicated items are a big gamble. I took that gamble on the outlets instead of PSP (I think PSP was out of stock) and now instead of having them installed they are BNIB. That turned me off their exhaust setup and I want ATM instead (when they get muffler inserts).

Now, if you think the stock inlet install was insane... especially the rear inlet - you have no idea what you are about to face with that curved rear inlet for the relocation kit. There is absolutely zero grip and you have to go opposite directions simultaneously in order to get that snout over the turbo tube. Now...if you don't have an extended ribbed turbo snout and you only have the stock super thin snout with barely anything to clamp onto... you are about to experience legendary anger and frustration. Even with the long ass 2 inch Pure S2 snout...it was almost impossible to get on the turbo completely. Picture this:

You have to push the inlet open towards the front of the car in order to push it onto the turbo snout...seems simple?
Oh no... while you are doing that, you have to simultaneously push the top part of the inlet hose towards the rear of the car in order to push the entire hose down into the altitude of the turbo snout...because the whole thing is coming from higher altitude than the turbo snout. This IMO should be done only if the motor is outside of the car. Holy Hell... It is an insane tight fit, even worse than the stock location inlet hose install.

The GIANT problem is... there is no space to grip anything in order to pull or push effectively.

... HELL NO. Stock inlets were hitting the limits of my sanity due to trying to get some of those damn hoses to stay on... IT GETS WORSE?! You are a bigger man than I.

Incredible. I'm glad it is worth it in the end!

 

[matreyia]

Hmm, interesting. I am on stock inlet location. I haven't installed the 'shield' yet as I am back on stock outlets. One day I will change over to the aluminum outlets but have a revision of VRSF that has difficult installation.

The inlet install was beyond insanity. I went through absolute hell doing it as well. If I ever do it again I am using an engine brace and lifting the engine up away from firewall. That rear inlet was insane to replace, but removal was quite easy with a PVC cutter (razor attached to a ratcheting 'clamp'). Sorry to hear about your insane install as well! UGH! Worth it?

UPDATE ! DISREGARD TEMPERATURE COMMENTS PREVIOUSLY.

Ok, turns out, the shroud covering the manifolds did not increase temperatures at all. Here's what happened...

When I relocated the expansion tank, there were lots of hose cutting and splicing and rerouting and the coolant needed to be put through the bleeding process by the car car. Now I bled the coolant twice using the process with the accelerator pedal, but apparently that did not get rid of ALL the pockets and thus the car ran hotter... like up to 40º hotter than previously. So this morning, I noticed that the temperatures all went back to previous levels even in traffic and driving in the city... so I guess the pockets all finally got fixed and the coolant finally bled itself fully after the week of driving.

So ARM Relocation Inlet kit does not cause any rise in temperatures, and reduces the engine under the hood temperatures on both sides of the car due to the shroud.

 

[Asbjorn]

Have yet to see proof in here that DCIs offer any advantages over stock Z4 air intake in combination with upgraded inlets. At least not at 450-ish HP. Exhaust side is much more important.

On my car DCIs made no difference to wgdc, boost and iat. If anything iat was a bit worse with DCI. Sound was definitely different though, and not for me. Removing the inlet snorkel to have more air enter the engine bay does nothing to improve coolant or oil temps either. It also doesn't help to remove the snorkel and close off the gap with an aluminum plate either. Tried it all. Went back to stock + upgraded inlets.

Finally you don't really want to remove the oil thermostat on a dual purpose street-track car, especially not with an upgraded oil cooler. You want the oil to get up to +110C. For track use, upgrading the frontal area of the radiator, oil cooler and FMIC is what works... dont waste time on increasing thickness of coolers (read: CSF radiator, VRSF 7in FMIC etc), and leave the fan as is. This is my hard earned advice based on analyzing logs from many track days.

 

[derekgates]

I certainly agree with your statements... I run a Z4 lid on my car. I posed about it recently:

Restrictive air intake

What's a good way to measure if an air intake is too restrictive for the turbos? Thanks in advance.

bmw.spoolstreet.com

If you are 'room limited' like my 335is consider extra airflow with a Z4 35is lid like I did on my car:
View attachment 35539View attachment 35540View attachment 35541View attachment 35542

I went this route after being recommended by BuraQ (BQ Tuning) as it ensures the maximum airflow is being delivered to the inlets on the stock box. You can see the massive reduction in the stock box of the 335i/s compared to the Z4 35is...

I didn't want to suck in hot air from engine bay and also wanted the noise under control. My car uses the ram air system and maximizes flow now.

I see alternative intakes as a way to clean up engine bay, increase noise, etc. I find the stock box to be a pain to work around in the bay... Eliminating stock inlets is a huge plus to any of these kits as well...

 

[matreyia]

I certainly agree with your statements... I run a Z4 lid on my car. I posed about it recently:

Restrictive air intake

What's a good way to measure if an air intake is too restrictive for the turbos? Thanks in advance.

bmw.spoolstreet.com

I see alternative intakes as a way to clean up engine bay, increase noise, etc. I find the stock box to be a pain to work around in the bay... Eliminating stock inlets is a huge plus to any of these kits as well...

Yes, that is why I did it. To clean up the driver side for all the other hoses and cans. All this about more hp is b.s. imo