Anybody run RB PCV External Kit without plugging the head ports?

[Twinz]

Correct to prevent leaking between the valve cover and the non return valve.
No issues with the hose since installing it a few years ago. The blowby collected in the high side OCC is very little compared to the low side. In the past 6 months there was hardly more than 2 spoons of oil in the high side OCC. So a connecting silicone pipe aint gonna deteriorate that drastically. Infact the ASH silicone reducer is similar quality silicone as the BMS silicone piping used to connect the high side OCC.

 

[matreyia]

Correct to prevent leaking between the valve cover and the non return valve.
No issues with the hose since installing it a few years ago. The blowby collected in the high side OCC is very little compared to the low side. In the past 6 months there was hardly more than 2 spoons of oil in the high side OCC. So a connecting silicone pipe aint gonna deteriorate that drastically. Infact the ASH silicone reducer is similar quality silicone as the BMS silicone piping used to connect the high side OCC.

Did you have to modify the stock crankcase ventilation hose connection? Cut it anywhere? Or just put that big ass hose over the connector and be done with it? I am about to do what you have...but I didn't know if I had to modify anything or just clamp that thing on there. I found that every little weak spot should be addressed and absolutely sealed... I mean the performance increase is well worth it and I can feel it each time I happen to plug a previous tiny leak... the car just responds much quicker with throttle input and gets into motion noticeably faster.

 

[Twinz]

I had to cut off the iffy plastic clamp on the valve...it was broken anyway. Then i just pushed the silicone reducer over it and fitted a worm clamp over the silicone to tighten it nicely. When you remove the valve you will see its pretty easy to modify to suit your purpose.

 

[matreyia]

I had to cut off the iffy plastic clamp on the valve...it was broken anyway. Then i just pushed the silicone reducer over it and fitted a worm clamp over the silicone to tighten it nicely. When you remove the valve you will see its pretty easy to modify to suit your purpose.

Awesome, I look forward to totally sealing that SOB and checking off that weak link. Thanks for the infoQ

 

[fmorelli]

UK Manufactured DPH Sport was $16 shipped to the USA, which seem to be a good deal for a ~400 deg silicone hose. Thanks for pointing this out and the follow-on Q&A's. I took a look at the clip this evening - not sure if it is a problem, but it does seem kind of flimsy.

Filippo

 

[matreyia]

UK Manufactured DPH Sport was $16 shipped to the USA, which seem to be a good deal for a ~400 deg silicone hose. Thanks for pointing this out and the follow-on Q&A's. I took a look at the clip this evening - not sure if it is a problem, but it does seem kind of flimsy.

Filippo

I always suspected that connection point leaking...It even feels loose when new.

 

[fmorelli]

I noticed that also when I went to check it last night. One question out of curiosity. I believe you both refer to a 4in long reducer. Does the length matter? It seems like a very short existing transition. Smite a 3in where can fit better?

Thanks,

Filippo

 

[matreyia]

I noticed that also when I went to check it last night. One question out of curiosity. I believe you both refer to a 4in long reducer. Does the length matter? It seems like a very short existing transition. Smite a 3in where can fit better?

Thanks,

Filippo

I plan to trim if necessary.

 

[Twinz]

I trimmed mine also.

 

[doublespaces]

Don't know if it was mentioned but what is the size of the plug that I need to do this? I had them before but must have gotten lost. Something like 11/32 or something to that effect

 

[fmorelli]

#10-32 is what you need. 3/16" long should be fine, I'd imagine, but I don't recall the depth size off hand.

Filippo

 

[Torgus]

#10-32 is what you need. 3/16" long should be fine, I'd imagine, but I don't recall the depth size off hand.

Filippo

Yeah that should be fine, just needs a few threads to seal well. I used rtv on the threads, counter sunk maybe 1/8 of an inch and then rtv on top to seal. No idea on the tq value, I did it 'tight' using my well calibrated wrist. Probably overkill with the rtv but I did not want any leaks and no way it is backing out. Most people have a tube of rtv laying around. Can't hurt.

To anyone reading remember to take your time tapping the head, collect debris, and the last rear one is at a slightly different angle I believe.

Quick, cheap, and easy mod if you have the IM off for a walnut blast, making the correctly sized vacuum barb for your silicone line for a tial bov, etc.

 

[doublespaces]

Where does everyone get their IM gaskets? Is there a high quality after market source for them or do we just buy that stuff from the usual parts retailers? I see sets priced at $15-$40

 

[Torgus]

Where does everyone get their IM gaskets? Is there a high quality after market source for them or do we just buy that stuff from the usual parts retailers? I see sets priced at $15-$40

I always bought OEM after hearing about mmp supplying gaskets that leaked etc. That being said every used IM gasket I have removed looked fine to me and I would have reused if not for the new ones sitting right there. Still have a stack of them on a hook. Probably will never use them but I hate to throwaway anything functional.

Given the cost vs. Potential headache I say use new OEM but no reason they should cost that much, jesus christ.

Or reuse. Especially if you have changed them once semi recently.

 

[fmorelli]

Paper towel covered in white grease pushed into the intake runner did a good job catching debris.

Elring for gaskets. Good quality. FCP $15.

Filippo