6266 Tasman Green e92 V2.0
- Thread starter camberadam
- Start date
Came across an impassible deal on the center section. For the almost same money as an assembled MFactory center; I'll have an oem LSD unit w/ stronger input/output flanges, stronger oem axles, cooling cover & 1 piece DSS driveshaft.
The problem now is DSS won't make a shaft based off someone else's measurements. JMARS (on other forums) had 1 made & his pictures show his customer #. I gave that to DSS, they found his order/measurements, but won't replicate w/o me mocking up my car & measuring... Then reassembling (so I can finish tuning) while waiting 5-6 weeks for production... Then I'd have to re-dissemble & install.
I'd like to get rid of the carrier bearing, but am wondering if it's more trouble than it's worth. A n54 driveshaft snout welded to a M3 driveshaft would be far cheaper/quicker.
I wasn't aware the m3 lsd was actually stronger. For some reason that was in my mind. That and the extra costs associated to the swap due to axles and drive shaft. I thought I had read about one breaking also.
The oem LSD isn't bulletproof, but I'm sure far better than the open diff currently in car. From my googling, most guys are/were seeing 60-80k on the diff clutch packs. This unit has zero miles.
I looked at like this, dollar for dollar the car OVERALL will see more improvements by swapping vs just adding an aftermarket LSD. I'm just building something fun; maybe a 1/2 mile event or track day; probably not too many dig races. I think I'll be okay w/ this for a little while.
Precision Raceworks coil kit ordered!
Still working on tuning & weighing out driveshaft options continues...
Still working on tuning & weighing out driveshaft options continues...
UPDATE: Kit installed & tuning continues... Kit is complete & nicely put together; only thing I did different was not use the supplied harness clips in the coil bracket & use extra looms to protect from the heat down in the VC valley. The loom running down the center of the bracket was closer to the header than I'd like. I gained almost 3/8" tying the loom against the bottom of coils. I may solder everything down the line, but so far so good.
Not a hard install, but patience is needed for sure. As others have said pay attention when seating the plug boot. See pics normal -vs- seated (notice center depressed).
Current engine bay pics; will move the PS Res to the tower & figure out if I'm going to cut up my cowl or swap to ///M cowl @ some point.
Not a hard install, but patience is needed for sure. As others have said pay attention when seating the plug boot. See pics normal -vs- seated (notice center depressed).
Current engine bay pics; will move the PS Res to the tower & figure out if I'm going to cut up my cowl or swap to ///M cowl @ some point.
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Image credits to FL335
Yes, the M3 cowl gives so much more access. But how messy is the wiring re-route that normally goes across the support? Looks like its stuffed back near the rear inlet.
Image credits to FL335
Yes, the M3 cowl gives so much more access. But how messy is the wiring re-route that normally goes across the support? Looks like its stuffed back near the rear inlet.
@Snelson3003 is currently in the midst of making a CF cowl for those that prefer the openness of running without a cowl and using the BMS filters. From what I've talked to him about, it'll be very small, and do just the job it needs to do when you remove your cowl, take the water where it belongs.
Interesting. So long as it will deflect the water from the cabin filter and provide some kind or new routing for the existing wires that are there? I'd be interested.
Yes I am working on the cowl as soon as the development of the paddle adapters are finished. It's a slow process as the water travels to the side gutters and the wiring looms will not be integrated into this. Goal is to prevent rain water from drenching the coil harnesses and stopping the flow of water that seems to land on the rear turbo charger. No Bueno.
I don't think mine looks too terrible; has a few strategically place zipties holding it tight to the metal hard line that is mounted to the firewall. The ECU/Booster areas are what bother me.
UPDATE:
VTT crank bolt capture arrived. @Chris@VargasTurboTech
Installed - <TIP> start all 6 bolts w/ the capture 1/2 to 3/4" away from pulley. Then tighten down evenly to lock crank bolt down. Mine was positioned just right that I couldn't start the bolts w/ the capture flush to the crank pulley. Final torque was 25ft/lbs.
Original VRSF 7" swapped out for new ATM fmic. @ATMSpeedShop @Bmwfixerguy1
ATM feels well made
Found this interesting in comparison
Overall took couple hours to do both. Capture could probably be done from the top by just removing electric fan, etc. I did it from the bottom since fmic was coming out anyway. Intercooler was straight forward swap; basic hand tools used. Most of time was spent adjusting/readjusting couplers & clamps (just because I'm a perfectionist); everything was already trimmed from the original VRSF install. Ambient air sensor was not an issue. The black face disappears in the valance for stealthy upgrade. Exterior pic & few logs coming.
VTT crank bolt capture arrived. @Chris@VargasTurboTech
Installed - <TIP> start all 6 bolts w/ the capture 1/2 to 3/4" away from pulley. Then tighten down evenly to lock crank bolt down. Mine was positioned just right that I couldn't start the bolts w/ the capture flush to the crank pulley. Final torque was 25ft/lbs.
Original VRSF 7" swapped out for new ATM fmic. @ATMSpeedShop @Bmwfixerguy1
ATM feels well made
Found this interesting in comparison
Overall took couple hours to do both. Capture could probably be done from the top by just removing electric fan, etc. I did it from the bottom since fmic was coming out anyway. Intercooler was straight forward swap; basic hand tools used. Most of time was spent adjusting/readjusting couplers & clamps (just because I'm a perfectionist); everything was already trimmed from the original VRSF install. Ambient air sensor was not an issue. The black face disappears in the valance for stealthy upgrade. Exterior pic & few logs coming.
Thanks for the update Adam! Glad all went well and your car looks great buddy!
Let me know when you get some logs!
We also have to come up with a means to keep are vicious alcohol habit going! I'm getting sick of my pilgrimage with drums as are you lol.. We need to find an affordable delivery option
Let me know when you get some logs!
We also have to come up with a means to keep are vicious alcohol habit going! I'm getting sick of my pilgrimage with drums as are you lol.. We need to find an affordable delivery option
I wanted to increase the exposed face. I plan to build my own, but won't be able to get to it until winter. In the mean time, ATM had re-released their fmic. And to me, the rounded header bars showed that someone actually put some engineering thought behind the design & not just slapped the biggest/cheapest core they could fit. Nothing against VRSF; just speaking in general. Tuning & other components have evolved quit a bit the last few years; I'll be giving more current feedback/data.
@ATMSpeedShop
Early impressions @ 85* ambient:
1. Suburban traffic: 14-20* IAT over ambient
2. Highway cruising 60-70 mph: consistently 10-12* IAT over ambient
3. A 2600-6600 rpm @ 20 psi / E75 (no meth) single 3rd gear pull: 4* delta IAT (96-100*)
NOTE: IAT's are w/ the Sharp's sheetmetal intake installed.
Still cleaning up the map; will post a log soon as it's "complete".
Early impressions @ 85* ambient:
1. Suburban traffic: 14-20* IAT over ambient
2. Highway cruising 60-70 mph: consistently 10-12* IAT over ambient
3. A 2600-6600 rpm @ 20 psi / E75 (no meth) single 3rd gear pull: 4* delta IAT (96-100*)
NOTE: IAT's are w/ the Sharp's sheetmetal intake installed.
Still cleaning up the map; will post a log soon as it's "complete".
