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E89 3DM Motorsport E89 Z4 Atacama Yellow Build
- Thread starter fmorelli
- Start date
Since my low-side PCV installation was also pretty N54-applicable, I posted it over in the N54 section. Here's the link, rather than duplicating the photos here:
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/low-side-pcv-installation-e89-z4.4801/
Filippo
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/low-side-pcv-installation-e89-z4.4801/
Filippo
I bought Bimmer-tech's amp and speakers. The Speakers were an improvement with the stock amp, though the door speakers don't fit in the stock enclosures. B-tech told me to cut the stock enclosures, which I didn't like the sound of. I rotated the speaker and used two mounting holes. That fit, and I'll add a third support when I get a few extra minutes. My car is hifi so I added tweeters to the center and rear channels. When I installed the bimmer-tech amp it sounded worse than stock and the foot well speakers were gone. I live a couple hours from their Orlando operation so they sent me yesterday to a tuner near them who is a DSP wiz. Until now, they haven't had a tune for the Z4 available. Unfortunately for you, my amp is the PP86DSP, I have no idea if the tune works in your 82. Footwell speakers work, tune is a bit bright and the stage is forward as you'd expect with that center channel still on, but all in all it sounds great in my car. I'll be doing some tweaking, but it's a very good starting point.
Unlike the F30's where there are many tunes online to find, nobody really talks about audio in the Z4's. So since this is the only place discussing these things that I can find, this seems like the proper place to share the stock e89 tune which I suspect Bimmer-tech will be sending out with the amp from now on. Remove the .pdf from the end.
Unlike the F30's where there are many tunes online to find, nobody really talks about audio in the Z4's. So since this is the only place discussing these things that I can find, this seems like the proper place to share the stock e89 tune which I suspect Bimmer-tech will be sending out with the amp from now on. Remove the .pdf from the end.
@RV8R this is fantastic. Yeah only @Lurcher has done a Z4 tune that I know of. I'm hoping to wrap up getting my interior back together as spring starts to warm up. Garage has not been pleasant until now.
I have a calibration mic and, once together, was hoping to get @Lurcher out this way for an afternoon and dinner. If not, worse case, I'll coerce him to work with me remotely. My setup has a lot of weird stuff to it, so I'm afraid no setup is really going to work without specific tuning to the car.
So the only speakers you swapped were the Bav kit? (mid/tweets in front, center in front, and mids in back)
Filippo
I have a calibration mic and, once together, was hoping to get @Lurcher out this way for an afternoon and dinner. If not, worse case, I'll coerce him to work with me remotely. My setup has a lot of weird stuff to it, so I'm afraid no setup is really going to work without specific tuning to the car.
So the only speakers you swapped were the Bav kit? (mid/tweets in front, center in front, and mids in back)
Filippo
My speakers are the alpha one’s from Bimmertech. 5 mids, 5 tweeters and subs. I haven’t installed the subs yet as removing that back wall wasn’t something I wanted to tackle until I was sure I was going to keep the system. It’s pretty pricey and until the tune was sorted, sounded pretty horrible. It sounds great now and I’ll likely swap out the subs soon.
The stock tune with any of these amps is horrible, so don't let that get you down. We don't have a big sample size and everyone is using different versions of the same amp - so sound files won't play well. I'm using the audison bit 8.9, with a mis-match of speakers. The footwell speakers not working is well documented by Fillipo and what he did (basically losing center channel for footwells) - same thing my installers did. The z4 is "special"..... Have fun with replacing those subs - just not worth it to me vs the sweet, sweet engine sounds....
Here are two sub-threads related to motor work for this car. I decided to post them as separate threads in the N54 section, and just reference them here:
Building Stainless Steel Outlet for Hydra HP650's
N54 head work
Filippo
Building Stainless Steel Outlet for Hydra HP650's
N54 head work
Filippo
Ok parts arrived for the next segment of work. Phase 3 of the car includes turbos, outlets, twin disc clutch. Phase 4 will address further rear end work to help manage new power. Part of that will be subframe changes (mostly in mounting), and changes to rear suspension members and tires. We want to be able to run 285 or possibly 295 rear tires. For that we are prepping an adjustable upper rear control arm. By having adjustability in both the rear camber arm (lower) and rear control arm (upper) it allows us to have so ability to fine tune the fitment of the tire in the wheel well.
Here are two photos of the rear arms. The second is just a rough graphic edit to see how this will go together. Left and right hand threads with a jam nut, two bosses, one welded ot the arm, the other welded to a sleeve in which the ball joints slide in. The arm will be cut and reinforced with box steel, where the boss will then be welded.
Filippo
Here are two photos of the rear arms. The second is just a rough graphic edit to see how this will go together. Left and right hand threads with a jam nut, two bosses, one welded ot the arm, the other welded to a sleeve in which the ball joints slide in. The arm will be cut and reinforced with box steel, where the boss will then be welded.
Filippo
What is your original set up and VO Code ? You need to have 6NF for A2DP streaming.
Alright so @barry@3DM pushed the adjustable rear control arms forward some today. We'll wrap them up next Tuesday. @Torgus, this guy can't help making suspension parts ... 
Filippo
Filippo
Send me your vin in MP I will check your vo code for you on the BMW ISPA base. If you have a cable and a laptop connected to wifi I can remote code for you.
I have some sub-threads under way, given some things right now are more "N54-centric". We just wrapped up the stainless steel outlet for the Hydra HP650 turbos. I have a video below and the thread can be seen here.
Filippo
Filippo
Thanks, Tyler. Props to @barry@3DM ... love working with that guy. Just have to tear him away from all the suspension work
Filippo
Thanks!
Enjoy watching your build and appreciate your sharing. Been a great help to me in getting some ideas and part numbers for both the sound and mech components.
How do your alpine PWE-S8 subs “feel” when you have the top down? Can you tell them apart from your rainbows? With the roof closed, is it too much bass?
Do you dynamically adjust the bass using the alpine remote bass level knob or do you adjust via your eq? If you are using the remote, did you join them to have one knob control both units, I am thinking this can be done with a Y cable?
Lastly, do they generate much heat or drain the battery too much if the car is off? I have the 2014 677 top hi-if system with the bavsound 10 spkr upgrade and the hertz 165.1 in the foot wells. Still running the stock 650W amp and subs, but expect to use a technicpnp HK677 sub output /LOC harness to provide the RCA low level feed to my alpines through a Y splitter.
Even without a second set of subs, the sound is far better than OEM, but my playlist for the top down is more about feeling the music that hearing it. I tried a 6” 300W removable sub in the trunk, but was overpowering the rest of the speakers as I had limited ability to adjust the sound curve with my stock amp. So, I reread your post and thought I would give the alpines a try.
Hope you get a chance to drive yours now that Summer is done...
Thanks for the kind words.
The Alpine's are self-powered and work well. Right behind the bottom of the seat, they are something you certainly feel as well as hear. Not overpowering, and one can dial them in as desired. You just need to feed them a signal, remote on/off, and power. I have yet to reassemble the interior and actually do all the DSP tuning. But I things are close enough that I can say the subs blend well enough.
My car spends a lot of time apart, so it gets a few miles here and there when I get it back together enough. I just ordered new rear tires. This is at 9k of driving ...
Filippo
The Alpine's are self-powered and work well. Right behind the bottom of the seat, they are something you certainly feel as well as hear. Not overpowering, and one can dial them in as desired. You just need to feed them a signal, remote on/off, and power. I have yet to reassemble the interior and actually do all the DSP tuning. But I things are close enough that I can say the subs blend well enough.
My car spends a lot of time apart, so it gets a few miles here and there when I get it back together enough. I just ordered new rear tires. This is at 9k of driving ...
Filippo
[QUOTE="fmorel
My car spends a lot of time apart, so it gets a few miles here and there when I get it back together enough. I just ordered new rear tires. This is at 9k of driving ...
Filippo
[/QUOTE]
I think I know what the problem is..... I didn’t see “tires” on your build sheet?
What are you running (or looking to run) on the wider rims?
My car spends a lot of time apart, so it gets a few miles here and there when I get it back together enough. I just ordered new rear tires. This is at 9k of driving ...
Filippo
[/QUOTE]
I think I know what the problem is..... I didn’t see “tires” on your build sheet?
What are you running (or looking to run) on the wider rims?
Oh they are there lol ...
Best wheels I've ever owned - that includes you-name-it ... 3 piece BBS, OZ Racing, HRE, several other cast wheels. The flowform wheels are great, and I'd buy Forgestar again in a heartbeat.
Basically 9k miles on the rear tires ... and probably were due at 7500-8000 miles.
I'm on the Hankook because what I wanted was not available when I ordered the wheels. They have been decent tires, actually. I will replace the rears with the same tire for now. We have more suspension development coming soon (rear adjustable upper arms, Ohlins external reservoir rear shocks, and a few other things, that will drive us to wider and taller tires in the back). Wheels are plenty wide. @barry@3DM and I just need to get adjustability inward to stuff a bit more tire in there, and a bit more control of the rear suspension and geometry.
Filippo
| Forgestar F14 wheels | 19x9 ET35 & 19x10 ET38, Bronze Burst finish, red caps, TPS |
| Hankook Evo v12 | 245/35-19 275/30-19 |
Best wheels I've ever owned - that includes you-name-it ... 3 piece BBS, OZ Racing, HRE, several other cast wheels. The flowform wheels are great, and I'd buy Forgestar again in a heartbeat.
Basically 9k miles on the rear tires ... and probably were due at 7500-8000 miles.
I'm on the Hankook because what I wanted was not available when I ordered the wheels. They have been decent tires, actually. I will replace the rears with the same tire for now. We have more suspension development coming soon (rear adjustable upper arms, Ohlins external reservoir rear shocks, and a few other things, that will drive us to wider and taller tires in the back). Wheels are plenty wide. @barry@3DM and I just need to get adjustability inward to stuff a bit more tire in there, and a bit more control of the rear suspension and geometry.
Filippo
