3DM E90/N54 Track Car Build

Jan 5, 2018
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Even though I don't track my car I'm really interested in how your able to make " The car now tracks dead straight under full acceleration while still retaining rubber rear subframe mounts for tolerable NVH on the street. " I have Aftermarket Toe arms and RSFB inserts and that did help but still not where I want it. Plus my alignment(TOE) is always changing in the rear after a few months of hard driving in the corners. I love learning about the suspension as that's my favorite part of driving, being able to handle the car with close to 400hp puts a smile on my face :smiley: lol.
 

fmorelli

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IMO the two things the N54 platform is still missing dynamic and multiple options for are A: suspension parts (it seems it's always either "drop dat bitch for siqq stance with our kit!" Or "offers stock M-like performance!") and driveline upgrades (aside from the LSD options, we really dont have much) so it's great to know you're putting in real research to fill those two gaping holes in the platform.
C: And an actual solution to cooling. That's also getting worked :).

Filippo
 
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Panzerfaust

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Even though I don't track my car I'm really interested in how your able to make " The car now tracks dead straight under full acceleration while still retaining rubber rear subframe mounts for tolerable NVH on the street. " I have Aftermarket Toe arms and RSFB inserts and that did help but still not where I want it. Plus my alignment(TOE) is always changing in the rear after a few months of hard driving in the corners. I love learning about the suspension as that's my favorite part of driving, being able to handle the car with close to 400hp puts a smile on my face :smiley: lol.
Theres an "eccentric bolt lockout kit" that one company makes that they include with their toe arms and also sell alacart that's supposed to help with this a bunch, knowing Barry and how the OE eccentric bolt can cause alignment and tracking issues when under heavy acceleration, I'd imagine he has a solution for the same thing.
C: And an actual solution to cooling. That's also getting worked :).

Filippo
True, I know for you road course guys those coolant temps are a PITA. As a straight-line person I dont have to worry quite as much and can get away with my PSP oil cooler + MHD settings for the most part but I still would like to see lower underhood temps for various reasons.
 
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barry@3DM

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Theres an "eccentric bolt lockout kit" that one company makes that they include with their toe arms and also sell alacart that's supposed to help with this a bunch, knowing Barry and how the OE eccentric bolt can cause alignment and tracking issues when under heavy acceleration, I'd imagine he has a solution for the same thing.

All things my opinion of course...

The eccentric bolt is not the issue. Almost all of the forward, backward, and side loads are taken up by the virtual A arms. Yes the toe link does see loads but not as much. This is why both of the upper arms have connections to the spindle with a tapered connection and double shear connections to the subframe. In addition, both the lower arms have double shear connections on both ends. The toe arm does not have a tapered connection at the spindle because there is no need. The only reason it has a double shear connection on the subframe is because that is how the eccentric adjuster works, it is not to take large loads.

The clamping force of the eccentric toe arm bolt is in the neighborhood of 10,000 lbs. The loads on the toe arm are not going to overcome the friction created by that.

The e36 and e46 share all cornering loads with two arms, an upper and lower control arm. IE the loads going through the lower control arm (toe arm) are MUCH higher than the loads going through the toe arm on the e90. The e36/e46 lower control arm has the same exact eccentric adjuster design as the e90. These cars don't have a problem with those bolts spinning.

So what is the issue?...

The e9X rear suspension has 5 linkages per side. That means 10 connection points. On the 335i, 2 of those are ball joints and 8 of them are compliant rubber bushings. On the M3, 5 of them are ball joints and 5 of them are compliant rubber bushings. In either scenario, 335i or M3, the tire is going to be moving all over the place when loaded with those compliant rubber bushings there.

I haven't tried but I bet you could align the car, roll it off the alignment rack, go drive around the parking lot, pull it back on the rack and get a different alignment spec on a stock 335i. If one of those 8 rubber bushings is flexed a slight bit different than before, your alignment will be different.
 

Panzerfaust

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All things my opinion of course...

The eccentric bolt is not the issue. Almost all of the forward, backward, and side loads are taken up by the virtual A arms. Yes the toe link does see loads but not as much. This is why both of the upper arms have connections to the spindle with a tapered connection and double shear connections to the subframe. In addition, both the lower arms have double shear connections on both ends. The toe arm does not have a tapered connection at the spindle because there is no need. The only reason it has a double shear connection on the subframe is because that is how the eccentric adjuster works, it is not to take large loads.

The clamping force of the eccentric toe arm bolt is in the neighborhood of 10,000 lbs. The loads on the toe arm are not going to overcome the friction created by that.

The e36 and e46 share all cornering loads with two arms, an upper and lower control arm. IE the loads going through the lower control arm (toe arm) are MUCH higher than the loads going through the toe arm on the e90. The e36/e46 lower control arm has the same exact eccentric adjuster design as the e90. These cars don't have a problem with those bolts spinning.

So what is the issue?...

The e9X rear suspension has 5 linkages per side. That means 10 connection points. On the 335i, 2 of those are ball joints and 8 of them are compliant rubber bushings. On the M3, 5 of them are ball joints and 5 of them are compliant rubber bushings. In either scenario, 335i or M3, the tire is going to be moving all over the place when loaded with those compliant rubber bushings there.

I haven't tried but I bet you could align the car, roll it off the alignment rack, go drive around the parking lot, pull it back on the rack and get a different alignment spec on a stock 335i. If one of those 8 rubber bushings is flexed a slight bit different than before, your alignment will be different.
Very interesting, thanks for the info! I had no idea what the strength of that eccentric bolt was but the fact that a company who makes (seemingly) high quality suspension parts for race spec cars had me assuming it was an issue, but I guess it could just be a "bonus" offering from them.

I take it your goal/setup for the race build will be all ball joints then? I seem to recall you mentioning to someone in another thread that'd be your ideal setup for keeping everything aligned under load, deceleration, cornering etc but I could be very wrong again.
 

barry@3DM

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Very interesting, thanks for the info! I had no idea what the strength of that eccentric bolt was but the fact that a company who makes (seemingly) high quality suspension parts for race spec cars had me assuming it was an issue, but I guess it could just be a "bonus" offering from them.

I think I know what you are talking about. That kit is if you have a "turnbuckle" style toe rod adjustment. It completely eliminates the eccentric adjuster.
 

Panzerfaust

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I think I know what you are talking about. That kit is if you have a "turnbuckle" style toe rod adjustment. It completely eliminates the eccentric adjuster.
Im sure you do and that is correct, it does completely eliminate the eccentric adjuster as far as I can tell. It's not a "lock" as in a way to stop the stock bolt from slipping so much as a handful of parts to eliminate the need and use of the eccentric bolt if you have an adjustable rear suspension setup. My phrasing probably wasnt great there!
 

Bnks334

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The eccentric bolt is not the issue. Almost all of the forward, backward, and side loads are taken up by the virtual A arms. Yes the toe link does see loads but not as much. This is why both of the upper arms have connections to the spindle with a tapered connection and double shear connections to the subframe. In addition, both the lower arms have double shear connections on both ends. The toe arm does not have a tapered connection at the spindle because there is no need. The only reason it has a double shear connection on the subframe is because that is how the eccentric adjuster works, it is not to take large loads.

The clamping force of the eccentric toe arm bolt is in the neighborhood of 10,000 lbs. The loads on the toe arm are not going to overcome the friction created by that.

I put paint lines on my eccentrics after alignments years ago and I've never seen them slip. I think the eccentric delete is useful for use with adjustable arms though to make side-to-side adjustments easier and eliminating the need for alignment when removing arms etc.

The e9X rear suspension has 5 linkages per side. That means 10 connection points. On the 335i, 2 of those are ball joints and 8 of them are compliant rubber bushings. On the M3, 5 of them are ball joints and 5 of them are compliant rubber bushings. In either scenario, 335i or M3, the tire is going to be moving all over the place when loaded with those compliant rubber bushings there.

I haven't tried but I bet you could align the car, roll it off the alignment rack, go drive around the parking lot, pull it back on the rack and get a different alignment spec on a stock 335i. If one of those 8 rubber bushings is flexed a slight bit different than before, your alignment will be different.

The rubber bushings definitely add a lot of deflection under load. They also add a lot of suspension stiffness which is why it's important to torque them at ride height. Eliminating these bushings and moving to M3 or aftermarket bits softens the rear suspension quite a bit. I remember when I had all the stock rear end components sitting in the driveway all the suspension arms stuck straight out. The weight of the spring, rotor, and caliper wasn't even enough to sag the arms from their static height. Those rubber bushings add I would guess 60-100lb/in of wheel rate and limits travel as they wind up. The rear sway bar was also bound by design which again added to the effective rear wheel rate.

Did the shaker rig testing more focus on strut/spring tuning? I've seen a VW report showing a base car vs a GTI and it broke down every bit of difference in ride height, camber change, and toe change throughout the suspension movements. The GTI cars actually performed much worse on paper due to their lowered ride height and worsened alignment changes. I can't find a link anymore. The GTI is still obviously the better handling car but that doesn't mean it doesn't make sacrifices to get there over the street trim car. Another interesting thing was that even with the ridiculously low spring rate they got from the factory the cars measured out to have over 1000lb/in of effective wheel rate. Probably similar story to above where control arms, sway bars, and bump stops added roll resistance. I am debating on moving up to stiffer spring for this reason as I have eliminated a lot of these things on my car. Makes me wonder how you came up with 7k/12k as a "track" (modified car) setup when that is basically the same rate( 6k/12k) that Ohlins uses for their regular r&t setup. So basically you are just revalving them? Doing the platform specific valving R&D for Ohlins that they should have already of done but instead they just use generic valving like everyone else?

After out last discussion I put a bit more though into my own aftermarket suspension setup. I like where it's at in terms of bump/droop distribution and ride height. Close to 55/45 strut travel distribution front and rear and 4.25" of ground clearance (ride height) with 6k/16k springs. However, I notice my control arms are oriented significantly different then a stock car which sits over an inch higher. I am also running the M3 rear end and M3 front control arms (longer camber arm). Front arms have reduced angle so I probably have less front steer than stock. I am thinking I could use a bit of bump steer correction up front. My rear arms are just about parallel to the ground at static height so I am guessing I actually experience toe-out when accelerating now and toe-in when braking into a corner. Rear toe-in under braking might be why the car is looser with the M3 components and lowered ride height. Static alignment changes might need to be made in the mean time. This is just guessed based on looking at the arms. Being multi-link maybe things aren't that simple though. I really need to measure all of this out. Just need to rig up some diy string alignment tools. I can foresee wanting to adjust some pickup points though eventually. Unfortunately, this level of tuning usually also puts you way out of class in competitive Motorsports... Straight to street mod in autocross for a basic bump steer kit lol.
 
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barry@3DM

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I put paint lines on my eccentrics after alignments years ago and I've never seen them slip. I think the eccentric delete is useful for use with adjustable arms though to make side-to-side adjustments easier and eliminating the need for alignment when removing arms etc.



The rubber bushings definitely add a lot of deflection under load. They also add a lot of suspension stiffness which is why it's important to torque them at ride height. Eliminating these bushings and moving to M3 or aftermarket bits softens the rear suspension quite a bit. I remember when I had all the stock rear end components sitting in the driveway all the suspension arms stuck straight out. The weight of the spring, rotor, and caliper wasn't even enough to sag the arms from their static height. Those rubber bushings add I would guess 60-100lb/in of wheel rate and limits travel as they wind up. The rear sway bar was also bound by design which again added to the effective rear wheel rate.

Did the shaker rig testing more focus on strut/spring tuning? I've seen a VW report showing a base car vs a GTI and it broke down every bit of difference in ride height, camber change, and toe change throughout the suspension movements. The GTI cars actually performed much worse on paper due to their lowered ride height and worsened alignment changes. I can't find a link anymore. The GTI is still obviously the better handling car but that doesn't mean it doesn't make sacrifices to get there over the street trim car. Another interesting thing was that even with the ridiculously low spring rate they got from the factory the cars measured out to have over 1000lb/in of effective wheel rate. Probably similar story to above where control arms, sway bars, and bump stops added roll resistance. I am debating on moving up to stiffer spring for this reason as I have eliminated a lot of these things on my car. Makes me wonder how you came up with 7k/12k as a "track" (modified car) setup when that is basically the same rate( 6k/12k) that Ohlins uses for their regular r&t setup. So basically you are just revalving them? Doing the platform specific valving R&D for Ohlins that they should have already of done but instead they just use generic valving like everyone else?

After out last discussion I put a bit more though into my own aftermarket suspension setup. I like where it's at in terms of bump/droop distribution and ride height. Close to 55/45 strut travel distribution front and rear and 4.25" of ground clearance (ride height) with 6k/16k springs. However, I notice my control arms are oriented significantly different then a stock car which sits over an inch higher. I am also running the M3 rear end and M3 front control arms (longer camber arm). Front arms have reduced angle so I probably have less front steer than stock. I am thinking I could use a bit of bump steer correction up front. My rear arms are just about parallel to the ground at static height so I am guessing I actually experience toe-out when accelerating now and toe-in when braking into a corner. Rear toe-in under braking might be why the car is looser with the M3 components and lowered ride height. Static alignment changes might need to be made in the mean time. This is just guessed based on looking at the arms. Being multi-link maybe things aren't that simple though. I really need to measure all of this out. Just need to rig up some diy string alignment tools. I can foresee wanting to adjust some pickup points though eventually. Unfortunately, this level of tuning usually also puts you way out of class in competitive Motorsports... Straight to street mod in autocross for a basic bump steer kit lol.

Yes the rubber bushings do add a spring rate to the equation of the suspension. I have no idea what the rate is of all of them combined when measured at the wheel. Assuming all the rubber joints are torqued at ride height (IE no preload), 1 inch +/- of suspension travel at the wheel is very minimal rotation of the rubber meaning very minimal spring rate. But regardless, I agree 100% it does need to be accounted for although I've found the rear of BMWs to be less sensitive to spring changes than the front. In other words, I don't know that you would feel much of a difference in the car if all things stayed the same and bushing spring rate was removed.

As a side note... For those curious about poly bushings... This is why OEMs use rubber instead of Polyurethane. Friction is the enemy of suspensions and rubber doesn't have friction, only a spring rate (because the inner sleeve and outer sleeve are bonded). Since the inner and outer sleeve of Poly bushings are not bonded (because poly has poor elasticity) they have a fair amount of friction and to overcome that requires greasing them. This, of course, leads to self destruction as the grease traps dirt and turns it into sandpaper. If an OEM want's to reduce compliance in certain locations, they use ball joints which have minimal friction.

Shaker rig testing was damper/spring analysis. Anything beyond that such as body roll, etc requires hooking up the other "posts" of the shaker rig. Big $$. That's why I'm modeling everything.

I just want to first say that suspension tuning is a very subjective thing. Every car is different, every driver is different, everyone has their own opinions about NVH, the list goes on. What works for one person may not work for the other.

As for the spring rate, the Ohlins spring rates of the E9X 3 Series BMS-MI00 "regular" setup is 350 lbs/in front and 400 lbs/in rear which is 6.3k/7.1k respectively, not 6k/12k. I chose those rates based on a balance of streetability and track use, the added power of the 335i, and past experiences, observations, and testing.

As for the valving, Ohlins definitely does not use generic valving. Each kit has it's own specific valving. My only guess is development on the e9X 3 series kits was done on something like a 325i. There probably wasn't much squat when powering out of a turn with a 325i lol. Much like with any company, testing every variation of every make and model of every manufacturer would not be practical, nor the prediction of the upgrade path of each of those models and catering to that. When you look on paper at the difference between a 325i, 330i and 335i you are looking at ~215, ~260, and ~300 HP respectively. They probably decided its not worth the R&D time to distinguish suspension kits between the models with such minimal power differences. Add 100+ HP to the 335i and that starts to change things.

@Bnks334 when you say you are running the M3 rear end are you talking about the linkages, subframe, spindle or combination of them? The rear suspension is so hard to figure out because its hard to measure the deflection of the rubber bushings when loaded as you well know. Static measurement is one thing, what its actually doing under load is another and could be totally different than static.

As for the front camber/toe curve, I have the same M3 arms up front and am getting ready to measure the camber and toe curve so I can verify the modeling spits out similar numbers. I will definitely let you know what I find. Same with the rear.
 
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Bnks334

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@Bnks334 when you say you are running the M3 rear end are you talking about the linkages, subframe, spindle or combination of them? The rear suspension is so hard to figure out because its hard to measure the deflection of the rubber bushings when loaded as you well know. Static measurement is one thing, what its actually doing under load is another and could be totally different than static.

As for the front camber/toe curve, I have the same M3 arms up front and am getting ready to measure the camber and toe curve so I can verify the modeling spits out similar numbers. I will definitely let you know what I find. Same with the rear.

That would be awesome. It's a lot of work and I am all talk as of right now. I swapped in the entire M3 rear-end. Sub-frame, diff, axles, arms, spindles, and brakes. Here is a pic of what the rear looks like at full droop (excuse the winter grime): https://i.ibb.co/tK7fJmh/20190210-174834.jpg

I guess what the wheel does under load depends on the arc of the guide rod as well. Both arms have a negative slope at ride height but the guide rod probably pulls in the front of the spindle more aggressively (toe-in) upon acceleration than the toe arm pulls in the rear of the spindle (toe-out). Again, the dynamic alignment changes really need to be plotted to see where to take the car at this point :/
 
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barry@3DM

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Whether driving for fun, to improve your skills, or to develop the car, a good data acquisition system is paramount. If you are just driving for fun, an over boost or overheating can kill a motor quick and the warning lights of a data acquisition system can save you BIG $ down the road. If you want to improve your skills, overlaying data with a quicker lap from someone else can show you areas of the track you need to work on. And finally, adding analog sensors can help with part and chassis development.

I've been using AIM for years and decided to go with an Evo 5 logger. This way I can run a small dash behind the steering wheel and set the logger up elsewhere, such as the center console. This allows me to log on the street as well and not have the AIM dash in front of the stock cluster. When I go to the track I just stick the dash up in front of the stock cluster for shift and warning lights.

The Evo 5 has two CAN inputs so I can tap into the BMW PT CAN and get many parameters without taking up precious analog channel space. Unfortunately, not all parameters are broadcast over CAN such as WGDC. Therefore I still have to use the MHD logger for that which is a huge pain. The AIM automatically turns on, logs, and turns off without any input from the driver. This is nice because when lined up on grid, remembering to turn on data loggers is a pain. In a dream world, MHD would talk to the DME via blue tooth and spit out the logging information via CAN to which I could connect to the AIM's second CAN input. More on this later!

I've been running the logger in the glove box because the wiring harness that came with the logger is kind of bulky and wouldn't fit in the center console area. however the built in X,Y,Z accelerometers are best put in the center of the car so i've decided to make my own wiring harness so that it will fit. The fun begins...

Logger with "out of the box" harness...
20190220_145746.jpg

Tools of the trade to make a new harness using Deutsch Autosport and Deutsch DT connectors....
20190220_150120.jpg
 

barry@3DM

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I am curious what kind of tires and brake pads you intend to run in order to have a street-able track car?

I trailer to the track so I have two sets of everything, one for street and one for track.

Street brakes are OEM pads with OEM rotors
Street wheels/tires are square setup stock e46 m3 rear wheels (18x9 ET26) and Toto Proxes 4 Plus 255/35/18

Track brakes are PFC 08 pads with OEM rotors
Track wheels/tires are square setup Flow One Race Spec F3s. (18x9.5 ET 35mm) and Toyo RRs 275/35/18

I've been using the Apex RC8 for years but decided to try the Flow Ones. Called my guy at Tirerack to get the scoop and he has nothing but good things to say. We'll see. They are 22 lbs vs 19 lbs for the Apex wheels. But the price was right for what the intended use of the car is.

Switching back and forth is a pain but there is just no way to get something that can do dual duty.
 
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fmorelli

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Switching back and forth is a pain but there is just no way to get something that can do dual duty.
All-in-one stereo: it plays records. it plays cassettes. it has an AM/FM tuner. But it doesn't do anything particularly well.

Filippo
 
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Asbjorn

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I trailer to the track so I have two sets of everything, one for street and one for track.

Street brakes are OEM pads with OEM rotors
Street wheels/tires are square setup stock e46 m3 rear wheels (18x9 ET26) and Toto Proxes 4 Plus 255/35/18

Track brakes are PFC 08 pads with OEM rotors
Track wheels/tires are square setup Flow One Race Spec F3s. (18x9.5 ET 35mm) and Toyo RRs 275/35/18

I've been using the Apex RC8 for years but decided to try the Flow Ones. Called my guy at Tirerack to get the scoop and he has nothing but good things to say. We'll see. They are 22 lbs vs 19 lbs for the Apex wheels. But the price was right for what the intended use of the car is.

Switching back and forth is a pain but there is just no way to get something that can do dual duty.

Thanks for sharing. I guess another benefit of coilovers, besides larger camber range, is that you can run 9.5 ET 35 up front.

And speaking of coilovers. I spoke to a KW damper engineer I met at a track event, and was led to believe that KW V3 aren't suitable for slicks/semi-slicks. If I wanted to run such tires, I would have to go for the KW clubsport. I was also told that the softest setting on the clubsports would be similar to the hardest on V3s. This leads to another dilemma, and while I don't expect you to comment on the KWs, I would love your insights on how the coilovers you have selected for this car are suitable for both Toyo RRs and street. Is the dampening/rebound adjustment range larger than the competition?
 
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barry@3DM

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Thanks for sharing. I guess another benefit of coilovers, besides larger camber range, is that you can run 9.5 ET 35 up front.

And speaking of coilovers. I spoke to a KW damper engineer I met at a track event, and was led to believe that KW V3 aren't suitable for slicks/semi-slicks. If I wanted to run such tires, I would have to go for the KW clubsport. I was also told that the softest setting on the clubsports would be similar to the hardest on V3s. This leads to another dilemma, and while I don't expect you to comment on the KWs, I would love your insights on how the coilovers you have selected for this car are suitable for both Toyo RRs and street. Is the dampening/rebound adjustment range larger than the competition?

Upon initial thought it makes no sense to me that the KW V3s aren't suitable for R compound tires and you would have to run the KW clubsports. Thinking through it the only things I can think of are...

The obvious difference between R compound and street tires is grip level which create more cornering loads.

On the front suspension the damper acts like a control arm as it is a structural member (Because Z4 has MacPherson strut). It takes bending loads from both vertical movements and cornering. R compound tires will not change the bending load on the front strut during vertical movements but it will from the extra cornering grip. Maybe the Clubsport has stronger components? I don't know. This is part of the reason I prefer to run inverted front strut dampers, not upright dampers.

The main function of the dampers is to control the energy release of the springs when they are compressed/extended and also to control the dynamic state of the vehicle, meaning they add roll/pitch resistance during the initial stages of a transition. The R compound will obviously cause more total roll/pitch from the extra grip. Maybe the engineer meant you will need more roll/pitch resistance from springs and the clubsport would be better at this than the V3?

So that is my hunch...the engineer was talking in terms of spring rate. Maybe he was saying you need the higher spring rate of the Clubsport vs the V3. That is simply not necessary. It's also a street car. As long as the damper is not bottoming out while cornering you are fine. You may have to compensate for the extra roll with a little more static camber settings or maybe just a little bit higher of a static ride height.

Maybe he was a salesman ;)

As for what I've selected for the DE car, it goes along with what I've said above. I chose the spring rates first as they were a compromise between being soft enough for the street but stiff enough to control body roll on the track. Then I chose the valving to be better suited for the track. In other words, I changed the force curve of the damper, I didn't just "match" it to the spring. "Matching" it to the spring doesn't really mean anything and I think people get confused with that.
 
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