335i MMP Inlet & CSF Radiator Caveat

[Jeffman]

That's what I also thpught but they sent me solid fittings..
No holes for switches. I been through three switches and none have worked because the probe tip doesn't reach the fluid. So as last resort I ordered a 160°f switch. Hope that will switch on at the right temp. Of 185°f.

I theorize that the 185°f switches are only heating up to 160º because they don't dip into the atf flow. So that means the temps are probably 30 degrees cooler.

Completely reasonable. I'd do the same.
Q: where does the DME/TCU measure transmission temp? So when monitoring trans temps where is it being measured?

 

[matreyia]

Completely reasonable. I'd do the same.
Q: where does the DME/TCU measure transmission temp? So when monitoring trans temps where is it being measured?

I have no idea. I just use MHD monitor to observe ATF temps.

 

[Jeffman]

I did not take any photos of the thermostat installed in place. But these are the installation pics of the cooler. Initially, I mounted in the grill area…BIG MISTAKE. Don’t do it. Use this location as recommended by Jason at Propulsive Dynamics. You get 20% more ventilation and reduction of heat in the fog light area with fog light delete.

View attachment 5661 View attachment 5662 View attachment 5663 View attachment 5664 View attachment 5665 View attachment 5666 View attachment 5667
https://vadersolution.com/products/6at-dct-transmission-cooler-fitting-adapter

Awesome job, Mat. Clear winner!
3 questions:
1. I don't see the bracket holding up the core, but I do see zip ties...
2. Could you please supply your parts list (here or pm me). I really want to replicate your setup (imitation is the highest form of flattery)
3. Good job on the wheel well vent. But the air flow would seem kind of restrictive. Or does the spinning front wheel close to the vent create a net negative pressure there which helps to pull air through the core?

 

[matreyia]

Awesome job, Mat. Clear winner!
3 questions:
1. I don't see the bracket holding up the core, but I do see zip ties...
2. Could you please supply your parts list (here or pm me). I really want to replicate your setup (imitation is the highest form of flattery)
3. Good job on the wheel well vent. But the air flow would seem kind of restrictive. Or does the spinning front wheel close to the vent create a net negative pressure there which helps to pull air through the core?

1. There is no bracket, just heavy duty zip ties and strategically drilled holes to anchor them. That thing won't even budge.
2. It would take me forever to find the part numbers...I am not in the practice of keeping receipts or memorizing things...although I definitely should. There are so many parts it would take a very long time. And since I had no guide, I went through many test fittings so I may end up giving you wrong item IDs.
3. So far so good on the flow. When on the highway, temps are 175º to 180 in 95º ambient. But if stuck in traffic...it could rise to 200º or a little higher...thus I am installing a fan soon.

Will upload when all is done and verified working.

 

[Jeffman]

Thanks Mat.

 

[big_ed]

1. There is no bracket, just heavy duty zip ties and strategically drilled holes to anchor them. That thing won't even budge.
2. It would take me forever to find the part numbers...I am not in the practice of keeping receipts or memorizing things...although I definitely should. There are so many parts it would take a very long time. And since I had no guide, I went through many test fittings so I may end up giving you wrong item IDs.
3. So far so good on the flow. When on the highway, temps are 175º to 180 in 95º ambient. But if stuck in traffic...it could rise to 200º or a little higher...thus I am installing a fan soon.

Will upload when all is done and verified working.

Not to stir up any drama, but your efforts in getting that oil cooler could have potentially been very helpful to evryone on the platform if you’d dedicate some time and help share the part numbers, length of lines etc. to the rest of those on the forum.

Whilst you get a pat in the back for posting the zip-tied cooler pics up, it only keeps the vendors selling there 1k kits making money and the rest of us who cant afford it stuck with our stock coolers.

Not even asking for a DIY... It’s all about having that extra option and at least some of the details on how to get there.

Hope this doesnt come off as an angry post but damn, how come no one in any of the forums has posed a nice little part list so we can all maybe make our own kits, get better cooling and save some money while doing it.

 

[Aaron]

This entire thread is sickening. Can you go back to e90post where you belong?

 

[matreyia]

Can anyone tell me who the fuck this Arron son of a bitch is? This guy has some serious issues. Aaron, you need to grow up fool.

 

[Aaron]

Ya I guess I have an issue with you suggesting to anyone that they Dremel the shit out of their fan, and install a component of the engine oil system with zip ties. Maybe because they are both incredibly terrible ideas.

 

[JuniorB]

Ya, carving any plastic to make way for rubber is a " what the f--k did I just do that for" moment!

 

[doublespaces]

Not to stir up any drama, but your efforts in getting that oil cooler could have potentially been very helpful to evryone on the platform if you’d dedicate some time and help share the part numbers, length of lines etc. to the rest of those on the forum.

Whilst you get a pat in the back for posting the zip-tied cooler pics up, it only keeps the vendors selling there 1k kits making money and the rest of us who cant afford it stuck with our stock coolers.

Not even asking for a DIY... It’s all about having that extra option and at least some of the details on how to get there.

Hope this doesnt come off as an angry post but damn, how come no one in any of the forums has posed a nice little part list so we can all maybe make our own kits, get better cooling and save some money while doing it.

Let me start by saying I agree with you, but it just isn't that simple. When designing a transmission cooler, there is no real straight forward way to do this without compromise in some way and everyone wants something different and custom work is going to be involved, meaning your hose lengths and fittings required are going to be different.

Do you want to retain your brake ducts?
Do you want to retain a factory look?
Do you want to avoid running fans, shroud and thermoswitch?
Do you mind your fluid temps rising above 220*F while parked?
Do you mind blocking the radiator a little bit?
Does an ugly tube and fin core with a hacked up radiator carrier bother you?

There are even more questions, but that is enough to give you at least 3 different versions of the transmission cooler. I've gone through FIVE different cores (PPK radiator, Setrab 16 row, Mishimoto Small dual pass, Mishimoto Large dual pass, Setrab 72 row) and configurations and purchased different sized fans and what not and I can say there is no one all-be all solution that makes everyone happy. The biggest problem, is that nobody makes a bracket which can be purchased ala-carte. And without a bracket, you end up piecing things together and dealing with zip ties and shit. My latest design involes a $600 Setrab series 1, 72 row core, I'll never have a need for fans or problems with rising temps at idle, but not many people want to pony up the money. If you think you can do the same with a smaller, cheaper core that fits in the fender area, while keeping your brake ducts when the weather gets warm out, then you're wrong. So you have to pick your compromises and honestly, I don't recommend half the DIY trans coolers I've seen nor would I run it on my car.