Alrighty, this is long overdue. I've been getting work done, but not very internet active. Tt's also work season for insurance adjusters. Progress stopped when all the Helix OD issues were occurring, so I put a pause on things since this isn't even close to a daily.
.
Here I've installed the new helix brackets. I also removed the little piss poor inline filter the HPFP uses since I have the Hydramat, and the inline filter. Here I've fitted the new fuel line that feeds the HPFP as well.
With the Helix OD reinstalled with the new plate, and bracket I began working inside the fuel tank. These tanks are heaven compared to 30+ year old e30 tanks where people clean them for hours, and then POR treat them. The tank did have contaminants as you can see. Although it appears to be large-ish granuals, that shit is actually a very fine dust that's trapped in water. I emptied that tank entirely to make my pump install easier. This big ass Holley Hydramat fits when curled in to itself. Holley says this is perfectly fine. This will prevent any kind of starvation issues for the most case
.
So I had to revise the Bosch044 pumps to sit horizontally in the tank rather than the vertical orientation shown on the previous page. I test fit the pumps in a 335i tank I had given to me years ago, the passenger side reservoir is taller in the 335i's. My lead's for the pump's were originally made to length for the vertical fitment; Well now that that I've made the revision I about screwed myself, and definitely created some frustration for myself. Regardless she is in sans a fuel level sensor. I'll implement the sensor later, and since I have a totally full tank I can at least ball park my fills for now.
This is where I made my discovery of the pump lead's being short. I made them just long enough to shimmy my fingers down in there to connect both pumps, and the return. The great news is the return lines from the fuel sending unit sit directly over the hydramat.. that's nice. I had to modify the tree to make fitment work. everything is in though.
I closed that hatch and began running the leads from the lpfp side. I repinned both pumps to run off the two OEM locations rather than tapping into the hat. I had to slightly trim the seal down to fit the new lines for the BPM4, but it seals as it should 100%.
I kept all the fuel sending lines on the fuel sending unit on the driver side. It looks a tad crowded, but it all fits naturally, and I personally like the configuration. Look carefully and you can see the second feed leading to the top hat. The feed line has been crimped despite the picture shown.
My goal with the boost solenoid was to keep the lines short, clean, and away from the heat. I was able to nail down two of the three, but I'll be purchasing shielding protect the lines. I'm slightly concerned with heat soaking into the solenoid off the valve cover, but I think we'll be okay. I removed the filter from the intake side because multiple communities throughout the years see these get clogged much quicker than expected. I switch my line size up to 1/4" line, look at the stock nips that come with the 4 port macs.. pfft.
This is where the lines sit, right over the exhaust manifold. The image makes the lines look excessively close, but they're juuust close enough to be a concern. Do not use line you can collapse with your fingers! Please use a line that's also somewhat heat rated, and then protect your ass with shielding.
Anyone who played paintball, or worked with pneumatic based poppet valves knows that lubes like dow33, dow55, and hater sauce are lifesavers when it comes to pressing in bushings, fuel fittings, and tight fitting holes. (heh) They're not petroleum based, and don't dry out quickly compared to mainstream options.
I'll be using a Provent 200 catch can, they're simply one of the best can made ever They're found on several model's from factory, and have some amazing coalescent abilities. The PCV system I'll talk about after some tests, we all know how great these discussions are and how opinionated the subject can be sometimes.
I'll be using one can that runs both the high and low side properly while still properly running true vacuum at idle/decel without fear of the can becoming pressurized, or any adverse effects. This system uses a series of check valves, and a spring valve that cracks at a metered psi, this is installed inline at a T that has been implemented into the system. Sounds too good to be true, right? This should be badass for us if everything goes to plan. No one should ever need to use two catch cans ever again.. they'd be obsolete.
last but not least.. A 3D printed cap for the mhd wifi dongle, that way It can fit the port with the cover on rather than pushing the port back.
At least it's not dark doodoo! lol
more on that tomorrow. Had upgraded mosfets installed, also had to take a step backward real quick, finished the psp900 install and it was a bitch kinda. 
