straight line suspension setup
- Thread starter Jlcn54
- Start date
I have been told to use the stock Spring rates in the rear whether you install coil overs or keep the suspension oem, plus ade drag shocks
If your budget allows it I would personally suggest doing multiple adjusting coil overs. That gives you the ability to completely dial in the car to your driving style and track conditions
If your budget allows it I would personally suggest doing multiple adjusting coil overs. That gives you the ability to completely dial in the car to your driving style and track conditions
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Solid subframe/diff bushings, diff brace, camber arms, toe arms, guide rods, the bushings at the knuckles, ade drag shocks and most important is a good alignment! Koni yellows up front should be fine. Stock springs in the rear, though I’ve heard people putting 328i springs in the rear to raise it to fit a taller tire
id
I heard two way adjustable shocks is the way to go. what coilovers can do that?
Up front you want one way shocks. Zero dampening on rebound and fairly stiff on compression. Out back you want the opposite. If you can, you want to lower the spring rates all around but use longer springs to maintain ride height.
You go for weight transfer. You *want* the car to move around on launch. Also, you can delete the front sway bar as it's dead weight if you are only going straight, but the rear needs to stay to make sure the car squats evenly.
No need to point out you want 3" wide wheels up front with skinny bias ply tires and roughly 10.5-11.5" wheels out back with as much bias ply rubber you can fit.
You'll never make a corner with the above setup, it'd be dangerous as hell on the street, but it's what all drag cars do.
You go for weight transfer. You *want* the car to move around on launch. Also, you can delete the front sway bar as it's dead weight if you are only going straight, but the rear needs to stay to make sure the car squats evenly.
No need to point out you want 3" wide wheels up front with skinny bias ply tires and roughly 10.5-11.5" wheels out back with as much bias ply rubber you can fit.
You'll never make a corner with the above setup, it'd be dangerous as hell on the street, but it's what all drag cars do.
FYI, There's is a traction/drivetrain sub-forum
The Ad-e shocks are double adjustable and Strange DA shocks have a good rep in the domestic world as being a solid bang for the buck set up.
Double adjustables will allow you to control how and by how much the rear of the car squats then lifts on hard accel. It's easy to confuse a break in traction on the lift out of the squat, rather then the squat itself on this platform. DA shocks let you slow that lift by adjusting rebound stiffness directly.
There is just too much to go in to as far as suspension tuning but the least amount of energy absorbed by soft bushings in suspension connections the more energy you have to transfer torque forward.
1. tires
2. tires
3. sub frame bushings
4. toe arms w/bearings
5. control arms
You want minimal camber in the rear while allowing clearance. Larger the contact patch the better.
The Ad-e shocks are double adjustable and Strange DA shocks have a good rep in the domestic world as being a solid bang for the buck set up.
Double adjustables will allow you to control how and by how much the rear of the car squats then lifts on hard accel. It's easy to confuse a break in traction on the lift out of the squat, rather then the squat itself on this platform. DA shocks let you slow that lift by adjusting rebound stiffness directly.
There is just too much to go in to as far as suspension tuning but the least amount of energy absorbed by soft bushings in suspension connections the more energy you have to transfer torque forward.
1. tires
2. tires
3. sub frame bushings
4. toe arms w/bearings
5. control arms
You want minimal camber in the rear while allowing clearance. Larger the contact patch the better.
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