Hey guys,
Not too long ago I picked up a 2012 X5D and my goal is to optimize it's functionality, efficiency, and of course fun. One part of this puzzle is adding a steering wheel with paddle shifters which will offer better control over the trans for passing, trailering, engine braking etc. Most of the info in this guide was already out there on the internet but it was in various locations and some of it speculative so I gathered all I could, tested to find what worked, and am consolidating everything into a definitive guide.
DISCLAIMER: This guide will cover the steps needed to accomplish the retrofit along with a few pointers, it will NOT explain every single detail and it assumes that people following the guide posses basic wrenching skills and know how to research on the internet. If you are one who goes on Facebook and asks, "how hard is it to _____?" Then this isn't the guide for you. lol There might be other (better) ways to arrive at the same result but this is how I did it.
Diesel E70s differ from the petrol based 35i and 50i variants in that the diesel never had the option to have paddles from the factory and consequently they are not pre wired. If you own a 35i or 50i then the correct wheel is a direct swap with no coding or wiring needed, there are other guides around for those petrol variants so this will be focused on the M57 powered X5s.
There are 3 steering wheel options to consider:
SSG: Found on Pre-LCI cars these wheels have push/pull paddles allowing a single paddle to shift both up and down. Paddles are a simple switch.
LCI: From LCI M-Sport E70s and come and can be had in Nappa leather which is identical to the X5M wheel minus tri-color stitching. Resistance based pull/pull paddles.
X5M: Pull/Pull resistance based paddles, padded Nappa leather wheel with tri-color stitching.
Wheel choice is subjective, I went with a wheel from a 13' M sport 35i E70. I made sure to get the higher end M-Sport wheel which features the padded Nappa leather like the X5M but without the tri-color stitching, I also like the sleeker look of the LCI paddles compared to the X5M paddles. All the function and comfort but without the flashy aesthetics.
AFAIK the Push/Pull SSG paddles are PNP on E70s once the wiring is ran, no coding or modification of paddles is needed.
Cliff Notes on the Retrofit:
1. Acquire applicable E70 wheel with paddles
2. Modify paddles (if needed)
3. Run wiring from SZL to mechatonics connector
4. Install and Test wheel
If you want to look up wiring diagrams or other proceedures like how to drop the transmission/transfer case support I recommend using NewTIS as a reference, it has tons of helpful info on servicing and repairing your BMW and it's all FREE!
There was a YouTube video posted a while ago where LCI DCT paddles were mounted on an E70 and the instructions were to change coding in the EGS from Wert 00 to Wert 01 which programs the module to read resistance based paddles instead of simple switches. This did not work for me but I was also might have had unsuccessful coding since I was coding with ProTool via BT and when I checked my coding with my Laptop (NCSExpert) I noticed some of my coding didn't stick wtih ProTool, maybe the wireless connection broke. Point being, if you are attempting the DCT paddles give the "wert 0" to "wert 1" a try and if it works then it's the cleanest and easiest solution. If it doesn't then you have this guide to fall back on.
Here is my original Sport wheel
This is the LCI M-Sport wheel in Nappa leather.
Before removing your steering wheel make sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing the air bag. Explosions and faces are not the best combo. ...that's what she said!
We will be converting the paddles from resistance-based to a simple switch. We must gain access to the resistors which means disassembling the wheel and the paddles.
With the paddles opened up you can see the 2 small rectangular resistors, we will be removing both of them and replacing one of them with a small piece of wire.
Here it is with the resistors removed and a piece of wire installed. The resistors are very small and if you don't have experience soldering or have the proper soldering equipment (like me) then it can be challenging. Worst case scenario you reach this point and can't remove the resistors you can likely outsource this to a local computer/electronics repair business, they should be an simple project for them.
Burger Motorsports created a very nice guide explaining how to modify the LCI paddles, in addition to the resistors being removed the pins must be relocated in the connectors. More here:
https://www.n54tech.com/instructions/BMW_LCI_Paddle_modification.pdf
After your wheel is modified the next step is to run wiring from connector X1880 which goes into the backside of the SZL in the steering column, wiring will be ran down to x8532, the large connector that goes into the mechatronics on the transmission. Originally I was hoping to run the wiring from the SZL to the gear selector and through the transmission tunnel since many BMWs I have worked on have a hole already punched through for manual transmissions. But with the center console being such an elaborate structure I decided against it and intead ran the wiring through the firewall by the dead pedal, by the brake boosted, down into the front driver side wheel well, up-n-over the transmission to x8532 located on the passenger side of the trans.
I guesstimated the length of wire needed with some extra length, wrapped it in heat shrink for added protection and used a wire hanger to "thread the needle".
X5 prepped for running wires
Just above the dead pedal is a thick rubber grommet that I pierced with an exacto knife.
Here is a better look at the grommet with the carpet peeled back, I ran my paddle wiring through that little circular indentation.
Here is a view of that grommet from the other side, it is located just under the brake booster
Here is a view with the diver side liner peeled back, you can see my paddle wiring exiting the grommet at the top right and secured with zip ties.
Not too long ago I picked up a 2012 X5D and my goal is to optimize it's functionality, efficiency, and of course fun. One part of this puzzle is adding a steering wheel with paddle shifters which will offer better control over the trans for passing, trailering, engine braking etc. Most of the info in this guide was already out there on the internet but it was in various locations and some of it speculative so I gathered all I could, tested to find what worked, and am consolidating everything into a definitive guide.
DISCLAIMER: This guide will cover the steps needed to accomplish the retrofit along with a few pointers, it will NOT explain every single detail and it assumes that people following the guide posses basic wrenching skills and know how to research on the internet. If you are one who goes on Facebook and asks, "how hard is it to _____?" Then this isn't the guide for you. lol There might be other (better) ways to arrive at the same result but this is how I did it.
Diesel E70s differ from the petrol based 35i and 50i variants in that the diesel never had the option to have paddles from the factory and consequently they are not pre wired. If you own a 35i or 50i then the correct wheel is a direct swap with no coding or wiring needed, there are other guides around for those petrol variants so this will be focused on the M57 powered X5s.
There are 3 steering wheel options to consider:
SSG: Found on Pre-LCI cars these wheels have push/pull paddles allowing a single paddle to shift both up and down. Paddles are a simple switch.
LCI: From LCI M-Sport E70s and come and can be had in Nappa leather which is identical to the X5M wheel minus tri-color stitching. Resistance based pull/pull paddles.
X5M: Pull/Pull resistance based paddles, padded Nappa leather wheel with tri-color stitching.
Wheel choice is subjective, I went with a wheel from a 13' M sport 35i E70. I made sure to get the higher end M-Sport wheel which features the padded Nappa leather like the X5M but without the tri-color stitching, I also like the sleeker look of the LCI paddles compared to the X5M paddles. All the function and comfort but without the flashy aesthetics.
AFAIK the Push/Pull SSG paddles are PNP on E70s once the wiring is ran, no coding or modification of paddles is needed.
Cliff Notes on the Retrofit:
1. Acquire applicable E70 wheel with paddles
2. Modify paddles (if needed)
3. Run wiring from SZL to mechatonics connector
4. Install and Test wheel
If you want to look up wiring diagrams or other proceedures like how to drop the transmission/transfer case support I recommend using NewTIS as a reference, it has tons of helpful info on servicing and repairing your BMW and it's all FREE!
There was a YouTube video posted a while ago where LCI DCT paddles were mounted on an E70 and the instructions were to change coding in the EGS from Wert 00 to Wert 01 which programs the module to read resistance based paddles instead of simple switches. This did not work for me but I was also might have had unsuccessful coding since I was coding with ProTool via BT and when I checked my coding with my Laptop (NCSExpert) I noticed some of my coding didn't stick wtih ProTool, maybe the wireless connection broke. Point being, if you are attempting the DCT paddles give the "wert 0" to "wert 1" a try and if it works then it's the cleanest and easiest solution. If it doesn't then you have this guide to fall back on.
Here is my original Sport wheel
This is the LCI M-Sport wheel in Nappa leather.
Before removing your steering wheel make sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing the air bag. Explosions and faces are not the best combo. ...that's what she said!
We will be converting the paddles from resistance-based to a simple switch. We must gain access to the resistors which means disassembling the wheel and the paddles.
With the paddles opened up you can see the 2 small rectangular resistors, we will be removing both of them and replacing one of them with a small piece of wire.
Here it is with the resistors removed and a piece of wire installed. The resistors are very small and if you don't have experience soldering or have the proper soldering equipment (like me) then it can be challenging. Worst case scenario you reach this point and can't remove the resistors you can likely outsource this to a local computer/electronics repair business, they should be an simple project for them.
Burger Motorsports created a very nice guide explaining how to modify the LCI paddles, in addition to the resistors being removed the pins must be relocated in the connectors. More here:
https://www.n54tech.com/instructions/BMW_LCI_Paddle_modification.pdf
After your wheel is modified the next step is to run wiring from connector X1880 which goes into the backside of the SZL in the steering column, wiring will be ran down to x8532, the large connector that goes into the mechatronics on the transmission. Originally I was hoping to run the wiring from the SZL to the gear selector and through the transmission tunnel since many BMWs I have worked on have a hole already punched through for manual transmissions. But with the center console being such an elaborate structure I decided against it and intead ran the wiring through the firewall by the dead pedal, by the brake boosted, down into the front driver side wheel well, up-n-over the transmission to x8532 located on the passenger side of the trans.
I guesstimated the length of wire needed with some extra length, wrapped it in heat shrink for added protection and used a wire hanger to "thread the needle".
X5 prepped for running wires
Just above the dead pedal is a thick rubber grommet that I pierced with an exacto knife.
Here is a better look at the grommet with the carpet peeled back, I ran my paddle wiring through that little circular indentation.
Here is a view of that grommet from the other side, it is located just under the brake booster
Here is a view with the diver side liner peeled back, you can see my paddle wiring exiting the grommet at the top right and secured with zip ties.
