Technical Errors after errors with hunting idle.

[Boosted_135]

Ive been plagued with issues on this car. If i breath on something the wrong way, it breaks.

2008 135i FBO, new turbos, all new oil gaskets/seals. MHD.

ive been burning bank 1 o2 sensors pretty quick.

initially i was getting codes

2C3D
2CAA

Bought another o2 sensor and went ahead to replace it. It worked for 200 miles, same codes.

Now, heres where the fun begins.

I took it into the garage. Parked it.

Tried swapping o2 sensors from bank to bank. still had the errors.

So, i went ahead and checked all 30amp fuses. All good.
Removed the DME harness, checked for bent pins. (i use to have jb4, thought maybe o2 wiring was broke)
Drained the PCV external catchcan.


I went back to start. Long cranks, no start. Engine light, DSC, Traction control, start assist, tpms, check battery terminal errors. I was stumped.
2A9A
2AA2
2AA3
2ACB
3100

Went back out, checked everything i did. Everything looks good. Cleared all codes.

Went to try again, eventuslly it started. Idle jumping up and down 400rpm. 900-1300. eventually it richened up and tried to die. I shut it off before this happened.

2AA2
2AA3
2CEC
2CED
2D09
2ACB
2A9F
2A9E
3100

Throttle body errors. I tried to reset adaptations. Took the tb off and made sure it was plugged in. When it idles, the gas pedal does nothing.

I checked the battery voltage. 12.5v went off. checked the Voltage at the 50amp fuse in the fuse box, 12v. 12v at the alternator
I started it again and had enough time to check the output Voltage of the alternator. It starts off at 11v for 5 or 6 seconds and jumps to 14.8.

2acb
2cfb
2d09
2deb Power management

Hooked up the battery to a bmw smart charger. It showed 25% start charging, 4 hours later it was 100%. cleaned the terminals in the trunk, and under the hood. Made no difference to the way it starts/idles.

I'm lost as to what it is after we barely touched anything.

.



the 30amp fuse upside down, is there suppose to be a fuse in the other 2 below? i forget the number.

 

[Boosted_135]

I fellow on facebook has the same idle (but his pedal works) and these errors. He replaced his alternator and it fixed it. I hate guessing games, throwing parts at the car if not needed

 

[Rob09msport]

Did you have the battery cable recall done?

 

[Optigrab]

Check the belt!

 

[Jeffman]

Looks like a job for the Pro Tool!
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/bimmergeeks-pro-tool-and-bluetooth-dongle-discussion.3866/

 

[Boosted_135]

Theres no recall for my car that hasnt been done.

Belt is new, pulleys are new, ALT decoupler is new.

i removed the Alternator tonight and charged up the battery. Im going to take both to get checked tomorrow. Theres some noise coming out of the alternator when i spin it.

Anyone with a 1 series, can show me where all their 30amp fuses are in their fuse box? Is there a link or picture that shows what each fuse is for?

 

[Boosted_135]

Looks like a job for the Pro Tool!
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/bimmergeeks-pro-tool-and-bluetooth-dongle-discussion.3866/

what would be the difference from this and using MHD for codes?

 

[Boosted_135]

Took the alternator to get checked. No issue was found.

Battery was discharged, but the car would still start and had no sign of cranking issues.

I'm lost. I'm almost thinking it's the dme now.

 

[pdxbimmertech]

With the 2ACB fault for the main relay, I'd be looking at the 30A fuses in the E-box first. Also worth checking the fuses on top of the battery under the red plastic cover just to make sure it's not something back there. I have seen the 2ACB fault be a DME but have also seen a fuse popped in the E-box (30A) cause similar issues. Good luck man, I know electrical gremlins can be super frustrating to figure out.

Edit: You can most likely get the wiring diagram you need on this site. Has lots of OE wiring diagrams, repair instructions and torque specs etc. just like factory TIS.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

 

[Optigrab]

How did they test your battery? If the battery has a low cell life like 50-60 percent you can get weird issues like this

If you have a bmw battery what color is the magic eye?

• Green: Adequate charge
• Black: Inadequate charge, recharge
• Yellow: Defective battery, replace

 

[Itsbrokeagain]

Can you verify you reassembled the DME connectors properly after checking for bent pins? I goofed once and it was ever so slightly off from being fully seated and locked in place, and it threw a shit ton of codes like your car is doing.

Id go over it with a fine tooth comb and make sure all the connectors are indeed in the right order and facing the right direction.

 

[Boosted_135]

How did they test your battery? If the battery has a low cell life like 50-60 percent you can get weird issues like this

If you have a bmw battery what color is the magic eye?

• Green: Adequate charge
• Black: Inadequate charge, recharge
• Yellow: Defective battery, replace

Battery has a 12.6v charge I used a meter and its low, needs a charge.

I can't see anything in the eye, maybe it's black.

If the car cranks fine and starts, wouldn't that rule out the battery?

 

[Boosted_135]

Can you verify you reassembled the DME connectors properly after checking for bent pins? I goofed once and it was ever so slightly off from being fully seated and locked in place, and it threw a shit ton of codes like your car is doing.

Id go over it with a fine tooth comb and make sure all the connectors are indeed in the right order and facing the right direction.

I removed the slide connector and pushed them down all the way.

I almost took the connector apart and put them in the ecu seperate, just to make sure.

Is there a way to test the throttle body? Adaptations doesn't even work.no pedal feedback.

Also on my.mhd, voltage reads low 11s.

I'll try it all again
I need to reinstall the alternator and AC pump.

 

[Optigrab]

This is from a service manual sounds like you already got step one...The eye definitely should be green. Do you have a way to charge the battery?

Did you check all the cables ground etc?

Charging system quick-check
- Use a digital multimeter to measure voltage across the battery
terminals with ignition OFF and then again with engine running.
Battery voltage should be about 12.6 volts with key OFF and
between 13.5 and 14.5 volts with engine running.

- Run engine at about 2000 rpm and switch ON electrical loads (fans,
lights, rear window defroster, and wipers). With all accessories on,
battery voltage should be above 12.6 volts.

The regulated voltage (engine running, battery charged,
accessories and lights OFF) is usually between 13.2 and 14.5,
depending on temperature and operating conditions. If the voltage is
higher than 14.8, the voltage regulator is most likely faulty.

 

[Boosted_135]

This is from a service manual sounds like you already got step one...The eye definitely should be green. Do you have a way to charge the battery?

Did you check all the cables ground etc?

Charging system quick-check
- Use a digital multimeter to measure voltage across the battery
terminals with ignition OFF and then again with engine running.
Battery voltage should be about 12.6 volts with key OFF and
between 13.5 and 14.5 volts with engine running.

- Run engine at about 2000 rpm and switch ON electrical loads (fans,
lights, rear window defroster, and wipers). With all accessories on,
battery voltage should be above 12.6 volts.

The regulated voltage (engine running, battery charged,
accessories and lights OFF) is usually between 13.2 and 14.5,
depending on temperature and operating conditions. If the voltage is
higher than 14.8, the voltage regulator is most likely faulty.

it is 12.6 off, and mid 14s with engine surging.

i cant get the engine up to 2000rpm because the throttle body/pedal isn't working. Engine cranks easy, all lights work.

i also did a drop down voltage test between the battery post and ring terminals.


the only thing i thought was weird, once the car ran, the alternator ran 11s, then slowly went to 14.7.



Like i mentioned before. Everything ran perfect. Only thing moved/touched.
-> ecm unplugged and replugged
-> both bank 1 o2 sensors where swapped
-> 30amp fuses where removed and checked

 

[Itsbrokeagain]

Me thinks the TB took a dump after the battery tanked. Anyone local you can swap one with?

Even with a shitty cam sensor or vanos solenoid acting up or bad hpfp it should still somewhat try to run and rev a little.

The only other time I had a 90% dead pedal was when I had a 'New in Box' HPFP turn out to be defective and it would sputter, idle hunt and surge and then stall for about 10-15 seconds. During that time the pedal was un-responsive for the most part.

 

[Optigrab]

You can try doing the adaptations reset for the throttle

1. Insert fob into slot (if you have a key, turn it 2 clicks to the right)
2. Press Start/Stop Engine button
3. Depress gas pedal all the way down for ~30s (if you listen, you will hear adjustments)
4. Release gas pedal.
5. Wait about 30 seconds
6. Start car

 

[Boosted_135]

Me thinks the TB took a dump after the battery tanked. Anyone local you can swap one with?

Even with a shitty cam sensor or vanos solenoid acting up or bad hpfp it should still somewhat try to run and rev a little.

The only other time I had a 90% dead pedal was when I had a 'New in Box' HPFP turn out to be defective and it would sputter, idle hunt and surge and then stall for about 10-15 seconds. During that time the pedal was un-responsive for the most part.

Fuel pump was changed under the warranty.

I wish I had a spare tb to test. The junkyards around me don't even have one

 

[pdxbimmertech]

Not sure if I missed it or if you have already checked but don't rule out the ground strap from the engine to the body. I've seen a couple posts about fraying ground straps causing issues. Voltage drop testing would rule it out as a possibility.

 

[Boosted_135]

Not sure if I missed it or if you have already checked but don't rule out the ground strap from the engine to the body. I've seen a couple posts about fraying ground straps causing issues. Voltage drop testing would rule it out as a possibility.

i checked the ones on the strut tower, but ill check the one down on the driver side. Its greenish color from what i can see