E89 DIY: Coding out EDC on E89 Z4 with Protool

[fmorelli]

Ok guys ... spent the evening on line with Dylan Strickland (Bimmergeek) after I sort of bricked my instrument cluster trying to code out EDC the "conventional" way. As usual ... E89 is a weird animal.

So ... long story short ... DO NOT code out M Adaptiv EDC stuff out of the VO. Bad things happen. Here's what to do on a Z4 if you get rid of EDC (i.e. switch to coil overs).

1) Open the DME box in the engine compartment, driver side by the firewall.
2) Disconnect the two EDC connectors at the back of the DME box - they are blue and white (see photos)



3) Now go in Protool. DO NOT go to Vehicle Order (VO) as is often said for other BMW's. Instead,
- just go to the Interior-->Kombi (Instrument Cluster).
- Once there, click on the search icon at the top of the screen, and enter "EDC"
- There are two EDC items, set both to disabled, and save

That's it.

Filippo

 

[NoQuarter]

Purpose of this is to remove error codes and warnings correct?

 

[RobbiZ4]

2) Disconnect the two EDC connectors at the back of the DME box - they are blue and white (see photos)

What about these 2 connectors after disabling the two options? Re-connect or isolate?

 

[General.Massacre]

I did this a couple Weeks ago when fitting CoilOvers to my mates @Osiris E89,
Followed @fmorelli instructions above, and it went perfect.
The connectors remain unplugged..
Car is flawless with the CoilOvers (ISC)

 

[pbondar]

I'm having the ohlins road n track fitted at the moment..I'll follow the Protool approach since I have that toy!

 

[pbondar]

Oops.. I got carried away doing VO coding to add the performance brake option for my 6 pot brakes…ignored this learned advice here unintentionally…removed the dampers in the VO..didn’t disconnect the leads BUT all seems ok..so far..

 

[fmorelli]

Oops.. I got carried away doing VO coding to add the performance brake option for my 6 pot brakes…ignored this learned advice here unintentionally…removed the dampers in the VO..didn’t disconnect the leads BUT all seems ok..so far..

So VO coding the EDC out didn't cause a problem for you?

That reminds me, I need to do the brakes. Offhand you have the reference for what needs to be flipped for the brakes?

 

[pbondar]

So VO coding the EDC out didn't cause a problem for you?

That reminds me, I need to do the brakes. Offhand you have the reference for what needs to be flipped for the brakes?

AFAIK, since I’ve yet to drive the 35is any distance all seems ok so far..for completeness I’ll remove the connectors shortly.

Ref performance brakes ..in Protool go to the whole vehicle section in the new format, then go to VO, scroll down endless list of options, about 2/3rd way down tick performance brake option, then follow through with code CAS and FRM..it will re-code automatically some other units (I may be getting confused with removing adaptive dampers) and then voila…

I’ve not yet gone to DSC to switch off e-diff now I have the Quaife LSD…

 

[fmorelli]

I suspect you will be ok. When we did mine, it just literally bricked in the garage. Only reason I posted about Z4 and the VO is I actually had the Protool developer remote into my phone and fix everything. He was the one that concluded the VO route on the Z4 was problematic. Ironically might have not been correct - maybe he fixed the VO and just solved the EDC problem in another way, and moved on.

Give it a drive - I'll be glad to hear that it works fine. Thanks on the performance brake option instructions!

 

[pbondar]

I suspect you will be ok. When we did mine, it just literally bricked in the garage. Only reason I posted about Z4 and the VO is I actually had the Protool developer remote into my phone and fix everything. He was the one that concluded the VO route on the Z4 was problematic. Ironically might have not been correct - maybe he fixed the VO and just solved the EDC problem in another way, and moved on.

Give it a drive - I'll be glad to hear that it works fine. Thanks on the performance brake option instructions!

They do have running fixes for various bugs...I had a similar remote session on the roof opening speed and also on the DSC unit..

 

[Lurcher]

Can someone talk about the performance brake change in the software for me? I've go the BMW performance set in front, and it works damn fine, but should I be doing this SW change? What's it doing for me?

 

[pbondar]

Can someone talk about the performance brake change in the software for me? I've go the BMW performance set in front, and it works damn fine, but should I be doing this SW change? What's it doing for me?

Hi there, it changes a number of the DCS parameters in the various tables... various other BMW forums have played with it eg

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929406

The general consensus seems to be that various 'effects' happen such as 'mushy feel' goes..

I've coded the same 6 pot PB I bought

Genuine BMW Performance Front Brake Upgrade - E90/E92 325i 328i 330i

BMW Performance retrofit sports brakes includes 6-piston front calipers and larger rotors. Genuine BMW # 34110444738

www.bimmerworld.com

On my E89 20i and then E89 35is using Protool

FWIW on my 20i the change moved it from being 'grabby' to 'linear' on the 35is it 'tightened' up the feel..can't say the pedal was 'mushy' at any time.

I did find a thread when I was looking a couple of years ago where some sad bunnies had looked at the different DCS tables from various 1 series cars to try and de-code how changing a number in a table eg 1,1,2,4 to 1,1,3,5 affected things..

I lost the will to live and just pressd the Bimmergeeks Protool SPBR in the options list..

You can still code on/off various DCS functions like e-diff which I did as I have a Quaife LSD fitted.

Hope that helps..

 

[fmorelli]

I need to code off e-diff ... and I need to code my Z4 for the 370/380mm brembo brakes. @pbondar do we literally follow the instruction in that first post (from the link you sent)?

 

[pbondar]

I need to code off e-diff ... and I need to code my Z4 for the 370/380mm brembo brakes. @pbondar do we literally follow the instruction in that first post (from the link you sent)?

So assuming you've unplugged the adaptive ecu as per your instructions then..and removed the EDC from the VO etc

With Protool..

Then go to options in VO..look for and add SPBR to VO and CAS and code

Seperately go to DCS and check options..AFAIK if you've coded for SPBR then e-diff will be off but if not you can code it off there..

I'll re-check tomorrow (UK time) and confirm

 

[pbondar]

So assuming you've unplugged the adaptive ecu as per your instructions then..and removed the EDC from the VO etc

With Protool..

Then go to options in VO..look for and add SPBR to VO and CAS and code

Seperately go to DCS and check options..AFAIK if you've coded for SPBR then e-diff will be off but if not you can code it off there..

I'll re-check tomorrow (UK time) and confirm

So Protool have revised their menus …but the same basic process is there..you find the VO page which is off the main landing page and in there are several buttons....one of which gives you access to all sorts of options, many illogical for an E89..however SPBR is there..when you code it it then asks you to confirm some other modules which you should accept.

If you are paranoid then a backup should be taken before coding.

 

[N!co]

So in Bimmercode just set these 2 inactif in the Instrument Cluster?

 

[pbondar]

You need to unplug the EDC connectors as well…might as well take the whole box out saves weight…Fillipo posted some pictures of the connectors..not sure how good Bimmercode is..it’s a 2nd tier product….

 

[N!co]

I had unplugged it and was driving around with the error. But bimmercode works perfect, error is gone.

 

[pbondar]

I had unplugged it and was driving around with the error. But bimmercode works perfect, error is gone.

Good to know

 

[robert@mclaurine]

My experience with my 2009 E89 Z4 was that it should take less then 20-30 mins total. The box was under my hood at the firewall and driver side (US driver). Remove the 11 screws and the cover. The hardest part for me was disconnecting the white connector. The clip on it slides horizontally. Do not pull up on it. Slide it towards the center of the engine. Once it slides all the way over it will come out easily. The blue connector is more intuitive and has a black clip that flips over and releases the connector. The ProTool programming part took about 1-2 minutes. As stated above, search for EDC. There will be 2 entries that show EDC in the description. One has to do with EDC timing(?) and the other the EDC feature. I disabled both and completed the process. I did do a backup of my system because I have never done this before. ProTool is definitely the way to go, even if you know what you're doing.