Great data! It all makes sense now.
Im really surprised you can hit 110C coolant on the street. High oil temps sure, but high coolant surprises me. At least where I live it is really hard to imagine using WOT for more than a few seconds at a time on the street.
I recommend installing a large aux radiator if you are blessed with roads like that. It is proven to work.
in case you havent noticed... im from hong kong so our climate is pretty much similar for the hot and humid part
highways in china are a lot longer and wider as well... we don't have that here so im sure if you put your foot down you can do the same
some of my friends have blown up their engines while driving from hong kong to guangdong international circuit (4 hourish drive for us)
anyways i rarely drive fast these days except for datalogging so i can barely get by...
speaking of china...these picture came up to my mind
Btw even with the stock oil thermostat, the oil temperature will be lower when the dme enters that mode, but it takes time to decrease. I ran the same thermostat insert for a year or so and went back to stock. There are really no benefits to having it, only downsides (oil runs too cold in winther).
From a cooling point of view, the CSF radiator is also not an upgrade and just a waste of money in my experience. But I have said this a hundred times and it will still sell like crazy. If you want any meaningful increase in cooling capacity, what you need is a large auxillary radiator. The reason for this is that the gains you get from increasing radiator thickness are minimal (I tested all the way up to 8cm thickness), and the stock unit is already very thick. What you need is more frontal area instead. My build has proven this. The 1M and S55 both confirm this direction. Even F1 cars run angled coolers to increase frontal area rather than thickness. There's an engineering explained video about that.
its the same case with the oil thermostat bypass imo, its another workaround to buy some headroom before our cars' weak cooling system give up
the csf radiator does get rid of the plastic hose outlets so its sort of worth it...the added thickness does somewhat add to coolant capacity so its another way to get headroom (more coolant takes longer to heat up but longer to shred heat)
when you add headroom to all the components in the system, it does give you some more time before your car overheats...
but its still not enough for a ~30 minute time attack session on full blast (even with stock turbos)
angled coolers (v mount) do work but its not easy to get the angles right without analysis, lots of rx7 switched over to using kits from japan to accomplish this but it doesnt make too much of a difference from what i can see
without data, proper ducting like what you have done on your car has the best chance of working
